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My first planted tank (pics) | |
katieb Fish Addict Posts: 697 Votes: 69 Registered: 03-Jul-2004 | I actually took the plunge... The Front: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/Katie215512/IMG_2054.jpg Ludwigia?: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/Katie215512/IMG_2052.jpg Not a clue: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/Katie215512/IMG_2059.jpg A much happier fish: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/Katie215512/IMG_2060.jpg Bulb is a 14 watt compact flourescent(5,500K). Tank is a 5 gallon hex. Do I need any ferts? Tips and advice appreciated. I'll do graffiti, If you sing to me in French. |
Posted 30-Dec-2006 00:17 | |
Budzilla Enthusiast Posts: 288 Kudos: 197 Votes: 90 Registered: 18-Jul-2006 | its a good start you do not need ferts but they do help, you can try putting a couple of drops of flourish excel in there every few days. I think that it is a type of hygro and not a ludwigia, it looks nothing like mine. -Vincent |
Posted 30-Dec-2006 02:17 | |
Falstaf Fish Addict Posts: 785 Kudos: 1211 Votes: 196 Registered: 12-Feb-2004 | Hi! the one you can't identify is a Hygrophila Polysperma, it's a fast grower under good conditions, place it closer to the light and it will grow faster, then you can do cuttings and re plant them it will soon fill your tank, but then you will need some ferts since you only have one fish? |
Posted 30-Dec-2006 23:18 | |
katieb Fish Addict Posts: 697 Votes: 69 Registered: 03-Jul-2004 | "Hi! the one you can't identify is a Hygrophila Polysperma" Which one, img 2052 or 2059? "but then you will need some ferts since you only have one fish?" Well I plan on adding a few more after the plants settle in. What kind of ferts will i need and how often? I dont want to add to much nutrients to the water column. I'll do graffiti, If you sing to me in French. |
Posted 31-Dec-2006 00:01 | |
Falstaf Fish Addict Posts: 785 Kudos: 1211 Votes: 196 Registered: 12-Feb-2004 | 2059 is Hygrophila. I would not add ferts at first, let it settle for a while, add your fish and see how they grow, if you don't see any growth or symptoms of lack of nutrients, such as yellowing of the leafs, then star with a fertilizer, since you have all stem plants, they will get their nutrients from the water column, fish waste and trace elements from your tap water. If time passes and you don't see growth, then you can add a liquid fertilizer, there are many brands out there, I use tropica's Master Grow, but that's because it's easier to get here. there are many, I would stay with flourish excell, form seachem. |
Posted 31-Dec-2006 00:32 | |
katieb Fish Addict Posts: 697 Votes: 69 Registered: 03-Jul-2004 | Thanks! Can you tell me what 2052 is? ETA: How fast do aquarium plants grow?! I've been glancing at the tank from time to time and one of the front stems grew at least an inch. It was well below the surface and now it is almost poking out Also, I have wisteria that I got out of those gel packed tubes from Petco and the leaves do not resemble the wisteria leaves Im used to seeing. I think Ive read that their leaves change depending on their environment, could this be the reason the leaves look different? Phew...so many questions. Haha I'll do graffiti, If you sing to me in French. |
Posted 31-Dec-2006 02:07 | |
Wingsdlc Fish Guru What is this? Posts: 2332 Kudos: 799 Registered: 18-Jan-2005 | Can you tell me what 2052 isYour photo number. For ferts I could stick to Flourish and Flourish Excel. Excel is a carbon source that your plants will like a lot. Flourish is your macros and micros. 19G Container Pond [IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wingsdlc/Ric |
Posted 31-Dec-2006 04:39 | |
katieb Fish Addict Posts: 697 Votes: 69 Registered: 03-Jul-2004 | Your photo number. I mean the plant species. I'll do graffiti, If you sing to me in French. |
Posted 31-Dec-2006 05:13 | |
katieb Fish Addict Posts: 697 Votes: 69 Registered: 03-Jul-2004 | After comparing my plant to H. polysperma, I started to look at other plants as the leaves did not look like H. polysperma. An admin at plantgeek.net thought it looked like a bacopa and after looking at some pictures online I think it resembles bacopa monnierie(sp?). I im pretty sure 2052 is wisteria(which means i might be up to my ears in it soon enough). I'll do graffiti, If you sing to me in French. |
Posted 31-Dec-2006 20:13 | |
Falstaf Fish Addict Posts: 785 Kudos: 1211 Votes: 196 Registered: 12-Feb-2004 | Hi, it's hart to nail the specie form the photo, but bacopa has more fleshy and round leaves, no veins on the leaf. I think both are Hygro. You also have to consider that most plants are grown emerged, so the leaf is quite different and when submerged they will change again, so just let them be for a while, they all are fast growers, so you will see a lot of that They also grow towards the light and in some cases will keep on growing out of the surface if you let them, so that's normal, let it grow a bit more, and when the stem is about 3inches longer than you want it, you can trim it an replant it. |
Posted 31-Dec-2006 20:58 | |
katieb Fish Addict Posts: 697 Votes: 69 Registered: 03-Jul-2004 | Slightly OT: My hood is supposed to support 11 watt flouro bulbs. For the past 18 months I used a 13 watt bulb without any issues and now Im using a 14 watt bulb. Will that cause me any problems? ETA: I can take closer pics if neccessary. Looking at pics of bacopa monnieri(Cant spell) they do have a subtle vein running down the center, looking at a pic of it on plantgeek I am almost certain my plant is bacopa. I'll do graffiti, If you sing to me in French. |
Posted 31-Dec-2006 22:15 | |
FRANK Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 | Hi, There is always some "rubber" built into those specs, however, at some point the ballast will over heat or short out due to a combination of circumstances that over tax it. Pushing things electronic is not always a good idea. Frank -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
Posted 01-Jan-2007 03:56 | |
katieb Fish Addict Posts: 697 Votes: 69 Registered: 03-Jul-2004 | Hi, There is always some "rubber" built into those specs, however, at some point the ballast will over heat or short out due to a combination of circumstances that over tax it. Pushing things electronic is not always a good idea. Short of changing the bulb, how do I prevent the bulb from causing problems? It has been difficult to find a CF 11 wats and under. I think my set-up's manual rated it for 11 watts floro and 15 watts incandescent. Why is there such a difference in wattage? I'll do graffiti, If you sing to me in French. |
Posted 01-Jan-2007 18:11 | |
FRANK Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 | Hi, Fluorescent bulbs are more efficient and use far less current/wattage to produce the same amount of light that a comparable incandescent bulb will. In essence an incandescent bulb is a wire that has one terminal connected to one lead of the 110VAC wire, and the other terminal is connected to the other lead. It is a short circuit between the leads and the current is limited only by the resistance of what we call the filament wire (usually an alloy of tungsten). The combination of voltage, resistance, and current, causes the filament to get red hot or white hot and gives off huge amounts of heat and light. With a fluorescent light, or compact fluorescent light, the A/C cord (lead) is connected to a transformer, called a ballast, which changes the voltage from 110 to a much higher voltage and far less current. In each end of the tube there is a very small filament that is used to heat and excite the gas trapped within the tube. When the gas is excited, it glows and will continue to glow until the voltage is turned off. Once the gas is ionized (glowing) the filament is turned of and the ionization continues till the voltage is turned off. With a screw in fluorescent bulb, the ballast (transformer) is built into the ba and internally wired to the corkscrew florescent tube. These are currently offered at various wattage outputs and are terrific replacements for the incandescent bulbs that regularly come with the smaller aquariums. While the hood may be rated at 15 watts for an incandescent bulb, it will handle a 18 watt CF bulb. There is that much difference in energy consumption between the two types of bulbs. These screw in CF bulbs were originally designed to replace the incandescent bulbs used for reading and lighting a room. They are labeled Warm, Warm White, Glow, or Reading bulbs, and put out a soft "glow" so the eyes are not irritated by the glare. They do not put out light in the best Kelvin temperature range for plants, or for viewing our tanks. The best bulbs for use in an aquarium are labeled SUNLIGHT or DAYLIGHT, or "TROPICAL SUN." These bulbs give off light in the 6700K and slightly higher and are considered by many to be perfect for growing plants, and viewing our fish. Here is a site that explains the "K" rating for bulbs: http://www.1000bulbs.com/page.php?s=KelvinTempExplained And here is a site that will help you select the best bulb for your hood and use: http://www.1000bulbs.com/category.php?category=2086 Hope this helped... Frank -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
Posted 01-Jan-2007 23:54 | |
katieb Fish Addict Posts: 697 Votes: 69 Registered: 03-Jul-2004 | That helped a lot. My bulb is a Daylight bulb, but the Kelvin rating is 5,500(it was the highest they had). The plants are responding well to the lighting. I just want to make sure the bulb's higher wattage isn't a safety hazard. I'll do graffiti, If you sing to me in French. |
Posted 02-Jan-2007 00:04 | |
katieb Fish Addict Posts: 697 Votes: 69 Registered: 03-Jul-2004 | Looking at the Marineland online manual for my tank(lost the written one), it says to only use incandescent lighting I could have sworn the manual said to use 15 watts incan/11 watts fluro. Maybe I'm remembering wrong. I'll do graffiti, If you sing to me in French. |
Posted 03-Jan-2007 22:07 | |
So_Very_Sneaky Ultimate Fish Guru Posts: 3238 Kudos: 2272 Votes: 201 Registered: 10-Mar-2004 | Hi there, The plant in 2052 picture is called Pennywort, or scientific Hydrocotyle leucocephala. Its a fast growing plant that can be planted or left floating, likes nutrient rich tanks, high light (though does well down to 1.5 wpg), enjoys c02 if present, will grow to 24 inches tall, give or take a foot, and acts like a sponge for absorbing nitrates. Great plant, I have some in my 10g. Oh also, in my 10g tanks hood, it used two 15 watt incandescents, which I replaced with 2 - 23 watt flourescents. Its had no troubles, and its been this way for 4 years now. Come Play Yahtzee With Me! http://games.atari.com Http://www.myleague.com/yahtgames |
Posted 03-Jan-2007 23:19 | |
katieb Fish Addict Posts: 697 Votes: 69 Registered: 03-Jul-2004 | Quick Update: I couldn't find any seachem ferts at my LFS, so as a temp solution Im using Nutrafin Plant Gro. Today I added 2.5 ml of it, which according to FerFriend, should be .1973 ppm Nitrogen .3421 ppm Iron .0657 ppm Manganese .0039 ppm Zinc .0006 ppm Boron .0006 ppm Copper (is this enough to kill inverts?) .0006 ppm Molybdate How often should I dose? I'll do graffiti, If you sing to me in French. |
Posted 13-Jan-2007 20:47 | |
katieb Fish Addict Posts: 697 Votes: 69 Registered: 03-Jul-2004 | I found a bottle of Flourish today. Any advice on how to dose would be appreciated. I'll do graffiti, If you sing to me in French. |
Posted 24-Jan-2007 17:48 | |
slickrb Enthusiast Go Gators! Posts: 238 Kudos: 47 Votes: 99 Registered: 19-Jan-2006 | I have good results dosing by what the bottle recommends. I believe it is 5 ml for every 60 Gallons. I have a 25 Gallon tank so I add 2.5 ml (rounded up to 30 Gallons) twice a week. This works for me but I do not have any CO2. If I did, I would probably dose every other day. For you I would dose .5 ml 2 time a week and see if you are getting good growth. I don't think you need to worry all that much about being exact as long as the plants aren't limited you will be fine. Rick See all my pictures at Google Web Albums |
Posted 24-Jan-2007 18:37 | |
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