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Hi,
You know this is beginning to become quite complicated.

You should understand that an aquarium is not something
you can start up, drive off and leave, and come back on
occasion to do "something" to it. They are more like
a four footed pet. They require daily water top offs
using water conditioner, (eliminate chlorine and chloramine),
and weekly cleaning including at least
a 10% water change (depending upon stocking and type
of fish) and gravel vacuuming.
Daily feedings, keeping in mind that a fish's stomach
is no bigger than its eye. Any additional food will
settle to the bottom and rot. That fouls the water, and
will increase the Nitrate reading and give algae a
veritable banquet to dine off of.

Unless your mother shares your passion for aquariums,
has the time to invest in its upkeep, and is knowledgeable
about fish keeping, you are looking at a stacked deck -
against a healthy aquarium. This is very much like pleading
for a cat or dog "of your own" saying that you will take
care of it, and then driving off leaving your parents
to care for your pets.

It is not something you can come home to look at once in
a while and then be busy the rest of the time. As school
progresses you will find other interests will begin to
occupy your time, more difficult classes, more demanding
instructors, as well as more and more homework, papers,
and field projects. Sometimes you will find yourself so
tied up that you can't make that weekend trip home,
muchless a dash home for a day trip.

Perhaps you should rethink this project and pick it up
when you can really enjoy it - later.

If you and your parents really want that tank, then you
should make it as trouble free for them as you can.
Choose appropriate fish, stock with plants that will
thrive with your light, and without any "extras" such
as CO2 and its attendant mess, and fertilizers.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

I see your point. I do make it sound like something I have no care for really, but I do and I really want to plant it and make it something remarkable besides just a tank with fish. I would still like to give it a try though, but maybe take it slower this time.

I still have an algae problem though due to my light most likely since there is nothing else in there currently. I saw a 24" 20W fluorescent light (daytime or natural light, I cant remember) on Home Depot's website that is sold at my local store that I could change the other bulb out with for now until a later time when I am able to give the tank better attention that the higher wpg and CO2 require. That new bulb would only give me 1 wpg to work with. Theoretically, if I were to add plants, they would not need the added CO2 and maybe just a dosing of Flourish Excel for example or some other liquid fertilizer that is easy to add if I were to plant it, right?

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
20 Gallon Album
5 Gallon Album

Actually, my light set-up is this: http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp18369/si1383180/cl0/coralifefreshwateraqualight24powercompactlight1x65w

The bulb is weird and I dont know where to find a replacement one with lower wpg that would fit in there. Does anyone know where I could find one that would?

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
20 Gallon Album
5 Gallon Album

Hi,
I use a Coralife bulb on mine. I've a 30G tank and use
their 96 watt bulb, but then my tank is heavily planted
and I use bottled CO2 injection.

That ad does not tell me what the pin configuration is
on the socket (Square or Straight). Here is a possibility
of a replacement:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3733+8068+15381&pcatid=15381

This bulb would take you down to 1.8wpg which would be
ideal for the low light plants that have been recommended
in earlier posts.

I don't doubt your intent or desire for a healthy planted
tank, I'm just commenting on the timing of it and the
ramifications of setting up one now.

Frank



-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Uhm, wouldnt that bulb take my wpg down to 2.75 and not 1.8?

I dont know what the pin configuration is. But if I cant find a replacement bulb my only option is to add CO2 if I want to do plants isnt it?

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
20 Gallon Album
5 Gallon Album

Hi,
Yes it would for some reason when writing that last
post, I was thinking 30 gallons, not 20.
Needed more coffee!

Well, in a sense, yes, you would need to add carbon to the
tank - either liquid, or gaseous form. As an alternative,
You could replace the hood assembly with one that uses
a single strip T-8, 40 watt, flourscent bulb. That would
put you down into the low light catagory. Then save the
current hood for later on when you can pay more personal
attention to the tank.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

True, but I just bought my new hood assembly last summer and I would rather not buy another one though I understand that the higher light level will result in more attention provided to the plants because they will need more trimming etc.

Lets say I do add carbon and keep the light I have, during next semester would the tank be fine if I did 50% water changes every other week with plant trimmings etc? If it wouldnt than I will probably grudgingly go in the other direction of lower light.

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
20 Gallon Album
5 Gallon Album

Hi
Sure, especially if you stock it lightly.
Check the nitrate readings and try doing the amount of
water changes on that. Do your first water change, and
then, two weeks later, check the nitrate reading before
you do the water change. Ideally, you should have the
nitrate reading between 5 and 10. If the reading hits
40 or more, then you will need to include gravel vacuuming
as well. But, regardless, always to the 50% water change
every two weeks.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

So this tank hasn't gotten very far since the last post on here, but currently it has issues with blue green algae. You commented on the thread here: http://fishprofiles.com/forums/Planted_Aquaria/Blue_Green_Algae_War/39727/

Still running the same light on the tank. I have a Hagen Plant Gro CO2 system that currently isn't hooked up to the tank because all I have is a C. beckettii and a couple of E. quadricostatus that are still managing to hang on after the blue green algae sort of chocked the life out of the Cabomba and L. repens.

I don't know what I'm really trying to get out of this post, but over Thanksgiving break I will have to perform the blackout to eradicate the blue green algae. I guess then I need some easy/beginner plants that are easy to establish and fast growing. I think Wisteria was mentioned at one point or another as being fast to root. I just need to get something established that will make it.

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
20 Gallon Album
5 Gallon Album

Hi,
It's been a busy time here and I'm just now getting
caught up on my site time. Sorry.
When a tank is first setup, you would want to use a lot of
fast growing, stem type, plants. Cabomba and similiar
plants are probably not the best to try. Hygro, and
wisteria would probably be better. Given enough plants,
as they grow they will take up the excess nutrients
and can out compete the algae for them. Once the fast
growing plants take hold, then you can add the slower
growing low light plants such as anubis and crypts.

Be sure to do at least a 75% water change when you uncover
the tank. All that blue green algae will have died off and
will be poluting the water. Do one immediately, and then
again the next day, and then a 50% the day after, until you
are back to a normal 20% water change. Also be sure to
tear your filter down, clean it throughly, and then set it
up again.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

It's a Bio-Wheel filter so if I set the wheel to the side and clean out the filter I shouldn't have to recycle the tank, right?

Will the fish be fine if I leave them in the tank? I have a Blue Ram pair and 8 Harlequin Rasboras.

When the Blue Green Algae dies, does it just unattach itself from whatever and float around? Because otherwise it's going to be a pain to rub it off the gravel.

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
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