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OldTimer Mega Fish USAF Retired Posts: 1181 Kudos: 1294 Votes: 809 Registered: 08-Feb-2005 | I'm contemplating setting up a reef tank of at least 175 gallons, however I have a couple of questions that I need answering before attempting to do so. 1) Once setup and established, can a reef tank be left for a period of 7 - 10 days without feedings, water changes, etc? I ask this as I have to be out of town once or twice a year for this time period and I may not have anyone that could take care of the tank while gone. 2) Do you know of any sites, books, etc. that give a step-by-step procedure for what is required, sumps, refugiums, skimmers, or whatever and the procedures for plumbing the same. I can't seem to find an all inclusive source that covers the actual setup procedure of the tank completely from start to finish. Jim |
Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:28 | |
terranova Fish Master Posts: 1984 Kudos: 1889 Votes: 229 Registered: 09-Jul-2003 | 175 gallons? Sweet! 1) Once setup and established, can a reef tank be left for a period of 7 - 10 days without feedings, water changes, etc? I ask this as I have to be out of town once or twice a year for this time period and I may not have anyone that could take care of the tank while gone. There is a key word here. An established reef tank nowadays shouldn't really have a problem with lack of attention for that long. A stable and thriving tank is usually safe to leave alone. There are a lot of natural foods that grow in the tank, like copepods and mysis, and algae's too of course. You could even put pellets on an automatic timer. I hear Eheim makes a nice one. This is where you might run into trouble. I think the tank should be able to last that long without a water change, provided it's not overly stocked, or stocked to the max, but if it's going to be a reef tank, I'm assuming you'll have a lot of light. Light equals evaporation. I cant even tell you how much water gets pulled out of my tank daily. It's over a gallon. I know that doesn't sound like much, but when the level in my sump drops too low, it effects the heaters, the skimmer, extra filters, and puts a lot of air bubbles in my main display. It's nearly crucial to have an automatic top off unit. Another tip to vacationing with a reef tank is to get a skimmer overflow cup. That way, if your skimmer is skimming the way it's supposed to be, you dont have to empty it weekly or whatnot. I didn't discover this neat invention till Christmas. It might be wise to have somebody come and check in on things everyonce in awhile. Equipment can fail. A natural death can put levels out of wack...it'd make it a lot more comfortable for yourself if you could have someone to tanksit just once or twice during that time period. By all means though, your situation is normal, and I wouldn't be prevented from setting up a reef tank because of it. 2) Do you know of any sites, books, etc. that give a step-by-step procedure for what is required, sumps, refugiums, skimmers, or whatever and the procedures for plumbing the same. I can't seem to find an all inclusive source that covers the actual setup procedure of the tank completely from start to finish. Yes. Well, first I suggest you read the articles in General Marine, particularly the marine set up one (as opposed to the one that focuses on stocking). That will be a good introduction. Also, read the reef articles on Reef Central. Those will further benefit you. The best beginners book I can tell you to buy, is Anthony Calfo and Robert Fenner's Marine Inverterbrates. This thing covers all. It's a Bible. No reefer should be without it. Covers sand beds, fuges, sumps, live rock, live sand...everything. It's intimidating, but it's so much fun to read, because both guys write with such humor, it's truly enjoyable. For fish reference, Scott W. Michael's A PocketExpert Guide to Marine Fishes and for invert reference, Dr. Ron Shimek's A PocketExpert Guide to Marine Inverts is an okay read. Corals of the World by Borneman has a great reputation, and when you get very into corals, be sure to get Calfo's Book of Coral Propagation as it is the most exhilerating geeky book out there. HTH a bit!!! Please continue posting your questions and sharing your thoughts and ideas. -Ferret [img src='/images/forums/halo.gif' border=0] PS: You can get all those books off Amazon for great prices. I've tried everywhere and always come back to Amazon. -Formerly known as the Ferretfish |
Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:28 | |
dthurs Ultimate Fish Guru Posts: 4340 Kudos: 4170 Votes: 529 Registered: 18-Feb-2003 | A well established reef tank with a low fish population can be left for several days with out problems. There is a lot to eat in a tank, algea, pods, etc. Just make sure you feed them good before you leave, and make sure the tank is topped off. My tank looses about 2 to 3 gals of water per week. If you have a lot of lights over the tank, it could be higher. But you can put auto toppers on. Dan Dan |
Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:28 | |
OldTimer Mega Fish USAF Retired Posts: 1181 Kudos: 1294 Votes: 809 Registered: 08-Feb-2005 | Thanks for both of the replies. And Liana thanks for the book references, I've placed an order for a couple of them and will begin my in-depth research. This will probably be a long-term setup project as I have to space it out because of time constraints. I'll probably be purchasing the equipment over the next few months. I will probably go with the standard 180 gallon tank. What other specific equipment items will I need other than a stand and what are your recommendations? Thanks again. Jim |
Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:28 | |
terranova Fish Master Posts: 1984 Kudos: 1889 Votes: 229 Registered: 09-Jul-2003 | 180's are nice tanks. When DRO's was fully set up it was gorgeous. You should get the reef ready version, that way you can have a sump as well. Like I say in my article, sumps add extra water volume, they're a place to hide equipment, to grow pods, so many things! What equipment reccomendations are you looking for? Everyone has their own preferences. Off the top of my head, I can think of a couple quick things. I love the AquaMedic light fixtures. That's what I have over my tank. I like AquaC EV skimmers, and also the Turboflotor series. Salifert test kits for sure. PinPoint pH meter, and Lifeguard digital thermometer. Ebo Jager heaters, I'd recommend Tronic for a smaller tank. (QT or something) Personally I'm using an Oceans Motions Super Squirt on my tank, I'd use the OM 4-way on yours. Tropic Marin salt. Instant ocean hydromter, and a good refractometer for callibration and accuracey. Umm...kalkwasser drips are sweet...two part calcium/alkalinity supplements are cool too. Oceans Blend or B-ionic are my favorites. If you do a lot of hard corals and clams you might look into a calcium reactor. Spectrapure and Air Water Ice make nice RO/DI units. Get an auto top off so you dont need to keep on top of evaporation. Southdown DSB. Hey, what kind of corals are you looking into keeping? I think I hit on most of the basics. LMK if there's anything else I can help ya with. -Ferret [img src='/images/forums/halo.gif' border=0] -Formerly known as the Ferretfish |
Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:28 | |
DarkRealm Overlord Moderator metal-R-us Posts: 5962 Kudos: 2166 Registered: 23-Sep-2002 | Just to add to the stocking level information. It is possible if your stocking is low enough to have a healthy fish (depending on the fish of course) without ever feeding the tank. I had a tank set up with one saddleback clownfish in it and a bunch of live rock and live sand. I fed that clown maybe once in the year that he was in that tank and he was growing like a weed. Topping off the tank is going to be your main concern, but as mentioned auto top off systems are available premade or you can set up and make your own. |
Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:28 | |
OldTimer Mega Fish USAF Retired Posts: 1181 Kudos: 1294 Votes: 809 Registered: 08-Feb-2005 | A new question for anyone that may be able to help or even have a personal opinion on the matter. I realize that the greater gallonage would be better between a 180 gallon standard than a 150 gallon bowfront, however I was curious as to the aesthetic value between the two. The tank I'm contemplating setting up will go into a more "formal" type area so the appearance does become important. Would the standard tank or the bowfront be best in this situation in your opinions Jim |
Posted 26-Jan-2006 19:45 | |
DarkRealm Overlord Moderator metal-R-us Posts: 5962 Kudos: 2166 Registered: 23-Sep-2002 | IMO either one would look great. Its all in the woodwork on the stand and the canopy that will make the difference. Ignore the diatom algae and just so you dont think that my 180 was never clean |
Posted 27-Jan-2006 03:12 | |
ACIDRAIN Moderator Posts: 3162 Kudos: 1381 Votes: 416 Registered: 14-Jan-2002 | Ewww, what's all that nasty brown stuff on the glass Nate? EWWWWWW GROSS ROFLMAO There is always a bigger fish... |
Posted 27-Jan-2006 03:30 | |
OldTimer Mega Fish USAF Retired Posts: 1181 Kudos: 1294 Votes: 809 Registered: 08-Feb-2005 | Thanks for posting the pics DRO. It was a very lovely tank indeed Jim |
Posted 27-Jan-2006 04:10 |
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