FishProfiles.com Message Forums

just wanted to know wat every one does or has set up for when the power goes out

battery powered air pumps. never had to use one myself *knocks on wood* but this is what I've read is the best thing to do. keeping the water moving and oxygenated should work until the power comes back on.

Same. Rechargable battery powered airpumps....which I got after being without power for 3 days with a hurricane a few years ago >.< didnt' lose anyone except for the otto that was already on his way out and being medicated.

I'm planning on buying UPS for each tank one of these days...especially the office tanks which I can't moniter over the weekend.

^_^
Current [link=Contest Rules]http://www.fishprofiles.com/files/forums/Aquascaping/44382.html?200412022138" style="COLOR: #EB4288[/link][/font]

but what about keeping the water temp normal

Larger tanks wont change temp that much in a few hours....best thing to do is to try wrapping the tank with blankets (making sure they wont drain the tank ).

A UPS will take a heater but you're likely to drain it rather quickly...even a heavy duty server strenght UPS...I know this because during above mentioned hurricane we had the big UPS from the office moved to the 2 tank we have there...pretty sure we went thru 2 sets of UPS on each tank because I was worried about heat and had them plugged in.

^_^
Current [link=Contest Rules]http://www.fishprofiles.com/files/forums/Aquascaping/44382.html?200412022138" style="COLOR: #EB4288[/link][/font]

Great topic and one I keep saying I'm going to submit an article on.

When you don't know if it will be hours or days, read on:

Oxygen

I have up to two, Penn-Plax B11, battery operated air pumps on standby on each tank, including any quaratine tanks. They kick in automatically when they sense power loss. They served me well during the big blackout when it took me two hours drive 4 miles to get home (traffic jams due to every traffic light being out). When I got home, them babies were humming - and hum they did for 3 days (on only 2 D batteries).

http://www.thatpetplace.com/Products/KW/F02/Class/Fish+Supplies+Air+Pumps/T1/F02+0291+0045/EDP/9322/Itemdy00.aspx

I have had a couple of them just die in between outages so I check them regular. I tried switching to a Hagen version of the same thing, and was greatly disappointed with the output, which wasn't as high as the Penn-Plax B11. Each time I do a water change I hit the main power button on the strip and they kick in. That is my test. I replace batteries every few months to be safe.

Other points:

Filters

Filter reservoirs and chambers, which contain live bacteria, rapidly consume remaining oxygen and begin to die off - like in as little as an hour. Marineland advises that you unplug your filter and wait for power to return. If it is under an hour, plug it back in. If one hour or more, you dump the stagnant water, clean out the filter, refill and replug. This is particularly difficult with UGFs. Therefore, battery operated airpumps should be plugged in ASAP to power them.

Those who managed to save their fish during the blackout, but failed to consider toxins and deadly anaerobic bacteria building in the filter, had to deal with losses in the days and weeks that followed. Local fish stores reported heavy sales (replacements) and themselves said people failed to do this one simple thing.

If I had a UGF, I would probably have an Azoo, combo air pump/backup air pump. It runs all the time, but the battery kicks in when power goes out.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=8120&N=2004+113402

Minimizing Ammonia/Nitrite Spikes

Remove biological media from the filter before it can become entrenched with deadly bacteria should o2 be depleted. I stimply stick it in tank (biobags/grates, etc.). I also stick my biowheels in the main tank, and in one case, wrapped the airstone line around it so that it bubbled up against the thing. This forced current around all that good bacteria doing two things: keeping the colony alive with well oxygenated water, and providing additional biological filtration.

Sponge Filters: They are priceless in a power outage situation, if they run in some back corner of your tank all the time. I have one in each tank. When I get home and find a power outage, I simply switch on of the battery operated air pumps to the sponge filter. I get some biological filtration. I like the added biofiltration I get with them anyway. I just rinse them in old tank water every few weeks. On my overstocked 20 long, I never saw any ammonia or nitrite during the 3 day outage.

Don't feed fish during outages as it will add to ammonia source. If it is more than a couple of days, just feed them lightly once.

Temperature

Fish can surprisingly take much lower or higher temps than their profiles may show. The key is that the change must be very gradual. So, we do what we can to keep the change slow. Ideal temp fluctuation to hinder temp stress, is no more than 1-1.5F change per 24 hours. Not always practical, but the very best target.

If it is cold out, drape the tank in a blanket. However, this must be done very carefully so as not to create a wicking situation where water could be drawn out by whatever you use.

To keep my unheated betta tanks warm, I fill empty pop bottles with hot water and surround the 2 gallon container on the floor (without the bottles touching the tank). Then I drape a towel or blanket over it. The surrounding air stays warmer longer. Those small 1-2 gallon tanks can deep-dive very quickly.

To keep tanks cool, remove the lid, unless you have jumpers or put a mesh over the top so they can't jump out, but heat can escape. More oxygen is required in these conditions as temps go up. Bottles filled with water that are several degrees below your normal temp and floated, will prevent it from raising too quickly. The key is not to use ice water, ice, icey cold water. All things gradual. These would need to be replaced often to keep the temp from rising too quickly.
[hr width='40%']
There's my long winded reply - Hope it gives you some ideas.

Diane


Last edited by Cory_Di at 20-Jan-2005 10:39

Last edited by Cory_Di at 20-Jan-2005 14:40

Last edited by Cory_Di at 20-Jan-2005 14:50