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SubscribeBeta with ICK! Please help!
thestooge
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Hobbyist
Posts: 77
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Registered: 04-Jan-2006
male usa
I have my beta (all alone) in a 5 gallon, planted tank. We just had a small power outage and the temp dropped quiet a bit over night. As a result she developed a case of ick (and is is ALL MY FAULT ). I heard that ick medications are very bad for plants though. How can I treat her without killing my plants? Please help poor Betsy!

Fish CAN fly!
Post InfoPosted 11-Feb-2006 07:32Profile PM Edit Report 
keithgh
 
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*Ultimate Fish Guru*
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Registered: 26-Apr-2003
male australia au-victoria
The Ich could have/was living in the tank but laying dorment and the temp drop could have started it again.

There are plenty of good Ich meds around just go to a good LFS and tell them what it is for.

Also you can add Melafix this will help to reduce the stress. Turn off any lights, add airation, very minium feeding small amount every second day, and increase the temp a little this increases the speed of the Ich life cycle.

What you must remember it is in the tank therefore the tank must be treated as well.

I would suggest keep the treatment going for at least two weeks after you have seen the last white spot.

No matter how bad it looks use the medications strictly as directed.

When it has settled down you will have to do several water changes.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info

Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
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Post InfoPosted 11-Feb-2006 09:37Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
keithgh
 
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*Ultimate Fish Guru*
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male australia au-victoria
Here is some more info on Ich


“White-spot” Parasite, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

This disease is easy to recognise, as the skin of the infected fish becomes covered with white spots, each the size of a pinhead. Each spot represents the site of one, or sometimes two, parasites. All parts of the body gills, may be attacked.

The causative agent is named Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is a spherical and large by protozoan standards, measuring up to 1mm in diameter. Short, hair-like processes known as cilia are spread densely over the surface. A horseshoe-shape nucleus is also present which is clearly visible under the microscope.

By the means of the cilia the parasite rotates vigorously and burrows into the surface layer (epidermis) of its host. It feeds on skin cells and surface debris. The burrowing action causes a local irritation and the epidermis grows across the parasite to enclose it, thus forming a “White Spot”

Reproduction occurs away from the host. After maturing in the skin, which takes a few days to three weeks, depending on the temperature, the parasite bores out, swims away and comes to rest on a submerged object such as a stone, or plant. Here it forms a jelly-like cyst within which a series of rapid cell divisions take place. In a few hours, several hundred daughter cells or swarmers, are produced, which break out of the cyst to find a new host. Alighting on the skin, they burrow in to recommence the life cycle. If they fail to find a host within three to four days, they perish.

Symptoms
If the protozoan is introduced into a tank containing healthy fish, little harm may occur, other than a fleeting infection with a few parasites. If however, the fishes are already weakened for some other reason, e.g. lack of oxygen, the parasite will quickly cover the whole body surface, causing irritation and opening up wounds for secondary infections. The host mobility may become affected. In sever cases, death may result.

Prevention
If white-spot appears in an otherwise healthy tank, the parasite “must” have been introduced either as an adult on a newly acquired fish, or as the cyst form on, for example new stones, a plant or even added water. The only certain method of prevention, is to quarantine all new stock, including stones, plants etc; preferably in water at a temperature of 77F. Allow one week’s quarantine.

Treatments
There are too many treatments today to recommend any specific one. Many can be bought easily at aquarium outlets.


Several very interesting points to think about.

Very easy to recognise.
Its reproduction cycle.
No host they will die.
If introduced into a healthy tank little harm may occur.
Pay attention to all tank details.
Weakened fish, and lack of oxygen can/may and will cause sever deaths. All this is usually caused by poor tank maintenance and/or incorrect and faulty equipment.
Prevention is the best cure
A Parasite “must” be introduced into the tank.

This information was collected from Fresh Water Tropical Fish



Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info

Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW
Post InfoPosted 12-Feb-2006 03:06Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
longhairedgit
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male uk
If you want some advice about which meds to use I have found esha exit extremely effective, and its never affected the plants.
Post InfoPosted 12-Feb-2006 18:57Profile MSN PM Edit Delete Report 
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