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Got a horrible feeling I may have made a mistake. Am treating large community tank for ick. Tank includes clown loaches, corys, various types of neons, platy, running noses. At first tried high heat method to eradicate bad case of ick (but gave up after two days as fish seemed stressed), then moved onto treating with protazin (have put in two doses (of 4). Two big pumps plus two airstone on the go so plenty of aeration I think.

Here goes the worry: yesterday I put in some live bloodworms to give fish variety and keep healthy. Clown loaches did not eat at all and so was left with excess bloodworms in tank. Am concerned that those bloodworms will be killed off by the treatment and then eaten by the fish - will that be poisenous to the fish. Have woken up 4 am with this thought (how sad am I) so if there is anyone out there who can reply to this one now so I can return to sleep, I'd appreciate it!

oh well...i just had the same problem like u do...until now(4 days) since i started treatment(i ended it yesterday)..they havent eaten at all..i guess u just gotta do a massive water change after the treatment and try to persuade them to eat..

Fish can be very stressed out during medication treatments so limit feeding and remove those excess bloodworms as they can decay and contribute to ammonia.

Thanks all. Eric, if I remove excess bloodworms won't that reduce strength of the medication?. Wasn't planning any water change until after completion of treatment. Really hope I don't lose these fish - never had any problem with them over last 18 months + and never had this dreadful ick in any of my three tanks.

i just had that problem and hopefully solved it...and having problems with feeding now...hopefully i can get it sorted anytime soon....good luck!

Thanks, what temperature did you keep the tank at during treatment?

30 celcius....i dont want to push my loaches too hard...

tinalisten46

Touch wood I cannot remember the last time I had Ich.
I would turn off the lighting, feed very sparingly every third day, and raise the temp just a little.

If you have a planted tank I would have the lights on for a few hrs every three days(same day as medium feeding)

When you are satisfied the Ich has completely gone as it can come back if you have not killed it all.

Do several water changes twice a week for at least two/three weeks. During this time do not feed on the water change days. Also add some type of stress coat and a Bio starter should be used to get the good Bacteria going again and the stress coat/Melafix can be used as directed.

One good method to help in preventing the outbreak of Ich is don’t add it to the tank. Be extremely careful on your selection of fish and plants, as Ich has to be introduced in one way or another to begin with.

I live in an area where Ich can be a big nastie during the colder months of the year. Because of that I have for many years prepared my water one week ahead this way the Ich must die as it has no host to reproduce.

Here is some more info about Ich that might help you.




“White-spot” Parasite, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

This disease is easy to recognise, as the skin of the infected fish becomes covered with white spots, each the size of a pinhead. Each spot represents the site of one, or sometimes two, parasites. All parts of the body gills, may be attacked.

The causative agent is named Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is a spherical and large by protozoan standards, measuring up to 1mm in diameter. Short, hair-like processes known as cilia are spread densely over the surface. A horseshoe-shape nucleus is also present which is clearly visible under the microscope.

By the means of the cilia the parasite rotates vigorously and burrows into the surface layer (epidermis) of its host. It feeds on skin cells and surface debris. The burrowing action causes a local irritation and the epidermis grows across the parasite to enclose it, thus forming a “White Spot”

Reproduction occurs away from the host. After maturing in the skin, which takes a few days to three weeks, depending on the temperature, the parasite bores out, swims away and comes to rest on a submerged object such as a stone, or plant. Here it forms a jelly-like cyst within which a series of rapid cell divisions take place. In a few hours, several hundred daughter cells or swarmers, are produced, which break out of the cyst to find a new host. Alighting on the skin, they burrow in to recommence the life cycle. If they fail to find a host within three to four days, they perish.

Symptoms
If the protozoan is introduced into a tank containing healthy fish, little harm may occur, other than a fleeting infection with a few parasites. If however, the fishes are already weakened for some other reason, e.g. lack of oxygen, the parasite will quickly cover the whole body surface, causing irritation and opening up wounds for secondary infections. The host mobility may become affected. In sever cases, death may result.

Prevention
If white-spot appears in an otherwise healthy tank, the parasite “must” have been introduced either as an adult on a newly acquired fish, or as the cyst form on, for example new stones, a plant or even added water. The only certain method of prevention, is to quarantine all new stock, including stones, plants etc; preferably in water at a temperature of 77F. Allow one week’s quarantine.

Treatments
There are too many treatments today to recommend any specific one. Many can be bought easily at aquarium outlets.


Several very interesting points to think about.

Very easy to recognise.
Its reproduction cycle.
No host they will die.
If introduced into a healthy tank little harm may occur.
Pay attention to all tank details.
Weakened fish, and lack of oxygen can/may and will cause sever deaths. All this is usually caused by poor tank maintenance and/or incorrect and faulty equipment.
Prevention is the best cure
A Parasite “must” be introduced into the tank.

This information was collected from Fresh Water Tropical Fish



Keith


Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
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i bought fish from wally world got the worst case of ick in histroy i finally got ride of it without losing any now i take keiths advice i buy from 1 lfs only prepare water in advance have,nt had it since/:'

deschazkody

Thank you
I have been saying that ever since I joined FP finally some one has listened. I might not have all the correct technical knowledge, but I learnt it the hard way, no books, or computers.

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW