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I have ich again in my 55g. The second time in the past month. I guess I should learn to have a QT tank, but don't have the money or room to set one up. I just got some panda cories yesterday, before I knew I had ich. I know they are a little more sensitive than other cories. Will they be safe if I raise the water temp to 85-86F? I have a post about my new pandas in the bottom feeder section and Calilessia put an article about them. In the article it says the temp shouldn't go above 82F (26C). Right now the temp is 83.3. Last time I had ich I raised the temp to 86 and it really helped get rid of it quicker. I don't want to kill my new guys. Should I move them out? I only have a 10g to put them in. They are about an inch long now. I don't want to risk spreading the ich to the 10g though, by moving the pandas. They don't have ich yet.
I have other cories (sodalis and trilineatus) in there also. They were fine with the high temps. I had that temp for about 2 weeks last time. I am using Ich Attack to get rid of it.

*Kristin*

I think it will be too late to remove them now. Also keep the treatment going for at least 10-14 days after you are sure it has all gone, as it could be in the substrate.
Here is some info about Ich.

“White-spot” Parasite, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

This disease is easy to recognise, as the skin of the infected fish becomes covered with white spots, each the size of a pinhead. Each spot represents the site of one, or sometimes two, parasites. All parts of the body gills, may be attacked.

The causative agent is named Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is a spherical and large by protozoan standards, measuring up to 1mm in diameter. Short, hair-like processes known as cilia are spread densely over the surface. A horseshoe-shape nucleus is also present which is clearly visible under the microscope.

By the means of the cilia the parasite rotates vigorously and burrows into the surface layer (epidermis) of its host. It feeds on skin cells and surface debris. The burrowing action causes a local irritation and the epidermis grows across the parasite to enclose it, thus forming a “White Spot”

Reproduction occurs away from the host. After maturing in the skin, which takes a few days to three weeks, depending on the temperature, the parasite bores out, swims away and comes to rest on a submerged object such as a stone, or plant. Here it forms a jelly-like cyst within which a series of rapid cell divisions take place. In a few hours, several hundred daughter cells or swarmers, are produced, which break out of the cyst to find a new host. Alighting on the skin, they burrow in to recommence the life cycle. If they fail to find a host within three to four days, they perish.

Symptoms
If the protozoan is introduced into a tank containing healthy fish, little harm may occur, other than a fleeting infection with a few parasites. If however, the fishes are already weakened for some other reason, e.g. lack of oxygen, the parasite will quickly cover the whole body surface, causing irritation and opening up wounds for secondary infections. The host mobility may become affected. In sever cases, death may result.

Prevention
If white-spot appears in an otherwise healthy tank, the parasite “must” have been introduced either as an adult on a newly acquired fish, or as the cyst form on, for example new stones, a plant or even added water. The only certain method of prevention, is to quarantine all new stock, including stones, plants etc; preferably in water at a temperature of 77F. Allow one week’s quarantine.

Treatments
There are too many treatments today to recommend any specific one. Many can be bought easily at aquarium outlets.


Several very interesting points to think about.

Very easy to recognise.
Its reproduction cycle.
No host they will die.
If introduced into a healthy tank little harm may occur.
Pay attention to all tank details.
Weakened fish, and lack of oxygen can/may and will cause sever deaths. All this is usually caused by poor tank maintenance and/or incorrect and faulty equipment.
Prevention is the best cure
A Parasite “must” be introduced into the tank.

This information was collected from Fresh Water Tropical Fish

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Do you think the Pandas will be ok with the high temperatures or should I keep it lower?

*Kristin*

Sorry to hear about your second bout of ich.

RE: the pandas, it really depends on how they were raised. Normally pandas don't like temps higher than 25C or so, but I've heard at least one person here say he's kept Pandas at 28C/82F with Rams with no problems. 86F/30C would be pushing it a bit though. I raised my temp to 29C/84F during an ich episode and my cory Habrosus didn't survive the high temp (and he wasn't even the one with the ich! . I'd keep it at your current temp just to be safe.

Last edited by upikabu at 12-Dec-2005 00:48

-P

GirlieGirl,

I've been treating a tank for ich at 86 for a week now. The lone panda in it has fared well, so far at least.

"I am a believer in punctuality, though it makes me very lonely" EV Lucas

i found ick on my fish yesterday,

its about gone now

quick cure is my miracle drug for ick! try it

it hasnt let me down yet. also saved my 3 day old betta fry too

Whenever adding meds and especially when increasing temps you should also increase surface agitation.

As the temperature of the water increases it's ability to remain oxygenated decreases. Adding meds will also often cause oxygenation issues.

Drop in an airstone or powerhead if you have it, at the very least reduce the water level some to allow the filter to splash the surface more...and save up for a q-tine tank ...just think of all the money you'll save on meds .

^_^
[hr width='40%'][/font]

Thanks everyone. Well I found one of my pandas dead earlier. The rest seem to be fine. They are swimming around. I tried counting them this morning and since there are so many hiding places in my tank, I only counted 4. I guess that one was hiding or dead then.
The temp is now 83.5. I am not going to raise it anymore. I don't know if that panda died from the heat or something else. Maybe it is a good sign that the rest are out swimming around.
One of my yoyo's was playing dead when I found the panda and I almost cried, but he got up and swam back to his hiding place. The meds I am using worked within a week last time so I am hoping it does the same this time.
Thanks fishyhelper for the suggestion but since I just bought a new bottle of the meds I guess I'll continue to use it.
It is strange because the other cories I have (trilineatus), on their profile it says they tolerate a lower temp than the pandas. (82F pandas and 79F tril.) I guess the pandas are a bit more sensitive. I raised the temp to 86F the last time I had ich and the other cories didn't seem affected by the heat. The temp stayed that high for 2 weeks. I just hope I don't lose anymore fish. The ones with ich seem ok also. I am crossing my fingers.
:%)

edit: Babelfish, I have an airstone in there already. I usually keep it turned down though. When I started raising the temp I turned the airstone up. Also my filter output is really strong (even turned down as far as it will go) so I am not worried about current. Thanks for the advice though.

Last edited by GirlieGirl8519 at 12-Dec-2005 22:35

*Kristin*