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SubscribeOk - went to LFS
jakemmy
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Fingerling
Posts: 19
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Registered: 13-Mar-2007
This AM. First thing. Got a gravel vac (handy little thing!) talked with very informative guy. Tested water right then and there. Amonia @ lethal levels (no &nbsp. Got salt, testers for everything, new filters. Came home. Did 25% water change, added salt (per directions and guy's directions) vac'd the poop and extra food (yikes, was there alot). Going to test in a hour or so. Fish still alive. RE: additives. Would start right tank start-up work as you were saying in the other post under fish dying?

Man, don't know what I'd do with you guys! Thanks a ton.
Post InfoPosted 28-Mar-2007 20:36Profile PM Edit Report 
sodaaddict84
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how long have you had the tank up? what size and what do you have in it?

i would just say wait it out and let nature do it thing, just stay up on the water changes when things get a little to dicey

*click *flash *click "whered he go???"
Post InfoPosted 28-Mar-2007 22:31Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
GobyFan2007
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male usa
Is this the Angelfish died person? If it is, im sure that someone told you that salt is not good for many fish, and might just worsen it. The only fish I know of that are tolerant of salt are some puffers, brackishwater fish, and mollies. Anything else is not reccomended to have salt in there. Also, im not sure about this, but many will tell you that most of the time, you cant trust the LFS, and i mean Some, not all(some FP members here work at the LFSs) LFS cant really be trusted. This is because of undertrained employees and managers that are just in there for the money....... And yes, even if the guy was informative, just ask and re-check the facts to be sure! We've got your back

I suggest you dont add salt, and just sit tight. Dont worry, just watch how the fish's conditions are, and test everyday. Keep on posting, and it will soon be gone

I still suggest you use cycle, as it is just a well known, working brand. Or you could buy the Refridgerated-cooled brand that is all live bacteria, good for your tank.

Good Luck!

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Post InfoPosted 28-Mar-2007 23:00Profile Homepage AIM PM Edit Delete Report 
jakemmy
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Fingerling
Posts: 19
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Registered: 13-Mar-2007
Yes, this is the angel fish person that killed her fish.
I already added the salt. I won't add more. The amonia is still at the high level. Should I do another 25% water change tomorrow?!?!?
Post InfoPosted 28-Mar-2007 23:33Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
So_Very_Sneaky
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female canada
I would not add salt. Salt wont help fish in a cycling tank, and could cause more problems.

What you need to do is BUY a liquid drip test for Ammonia, NitrItes, and NitrAtes. You need to test these levels once or twice daily during the cycling process.

You may need to do 20% water change daily throughout the cycle to save your fish. Do Not vaccuum the gravel during the tank cycle.

What size is the tank? What fish are in it?

Youve been told to use Hagens Cycle - it doesnt work. Save your money. The only product that is known and proven to cycle a tank is Biospira, found in the refrigerator section of your LFS. Call around and see if anyone carries it.


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Post InfoPosted 29-Mar-2007 00:30Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
jakemmy
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Fingerling
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I bought the liquid drop test this AM. I'll test again later, and post the numbers.

size of tank - 16 gallons, 22 inches across. Fish: One angel fish, one gourami, 3 zebras.

Post InfoPosted 29-Mar-2007 02:36Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
So_Very_Sneaky
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female canada
Ok the first thing you need to know,
Angelfish cannot live in a 16 gallon tank.
They need a tank that measures at the very least,
24x12x18, a standard 25g tall tank. That would be the very bare minimum for a single fish or breeding pair.
Angelfish grow to be 8 inches from snout to base of tail (not including fin), and 12-14 and even 16 inches tall in the fins.
What kind of gourami is it? If it is a golden, blue, or opaline gourami, unfortunately this species also needs a substantially larger tank, think 30 gallons in size. Gold/blue/opaline are all color morphs of the three spot gourami, and grow to be 6-8 inches in length.
If its a dwarf gourami type it could stay.
I know its awful when pet stores tell you your tank size is big enough, then you do research and quickly find its unsuitable at best.
I was told my 25g tall tank was big enough for 3 adult bala sharks. Man was I surprised to find out that not only was it not big enough, but that the minimum size tank for 3 adult bala sharks would need to be at the very least 4 times bigger!
You would probably be better off to return the Angelfish for store credit, and the gourami if its a large variety.
Zebras - I assume are Zebra danios, are great tough little hardy fish capable of surviving a cycling tank.


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Post InfoPosted 29-Mar-2007 03:18Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
jakemmy
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Fingerling
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Registered: 13-Mar-2007
Ok, here are the levels.

Amonia - 2.0 ish - which is significantly down from this AM.

Nitrate: 0
Nitrite: .5
GH (hardness): between hard and very hard (what to do?)
Chlorine: 0
KH: 120 (it says ideal)
PH: Between 7.8 and 8.4 - (Again, what to do?)

Fish seem hungry, but per LFS guy, I'm doing one flake per fish. Is that right?

I hear you about the angel fish. If he doesn't kick it, I'll give him away. Since the LFS knows about the tank problems, they are not likely to take him back.

Gourami - it's a dwarf. No worries there.

Again, thanks so much. Another day of fish trauma!!
Post InfoPosted 29-Mar-2007 05:06Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
sodaaddict84
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male usa
fish always appear to be hungry. i would say that is fair amount. depending on size of flakes. i use wardley flakes and ocassionaly i get a flake that is quarter sized. with ammonia at 2.0 ppm i know the zebra will pull through but be careful. test the tap water before adding any conditioners. if the tap water has a high ph you may need to use different conditioners to counter this.

*click *flash *click "whered he go???"
Post InfoPosted 29-Mar-2007 06:40Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
So_Very_Sneaky
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female canada
Hi there,
seems like your cycle is going along alright.
You shoudl do another water change. Try to get the ammonia down to or under 1.0 ppm.
You may need to change 50% of the water to do so.
But that should be ok.


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Post InfoPosted 29-Mar-2007 23:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
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