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I had one betta male under treatment. In a week all spots seem to have dissapeared. Unfortunately, a newly acquired cichlid has white spots and another suffering from fin rot. I had to treat for fin rot in the main tank and left it there because the Hospital tank is occupied by the betta. Since I need the tabk for the cichlid, Can anyone tell me when it is the right time for the betta to be placed in its original place. It has been a week under treatment.

Well ich is one of the few diseases that need to be treated in the main tank as that's where the parasite is present. However if you've been treating with meds for a week and have seen no other signs of ich on any of the other fish you should be safe to move him back to his main tank.
Start treating for finrot right away as some forms of finrot move really fast and can kill rather quick.

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The betta male under treatment seem to have all the spots dissapeared. Unfortunately, a newly acquired cichlid has white spots and another suffering from fin rot. I had to treat for fin rot in the main tank and left it there because the Hospital tank is occupied by the betta. Since I need the tank for the cichlid, but not sure whether to place the cichlid with fin rot or the one with white spots

Fin rot can (and should if possible) be treated with a quarrentine tank.

Ich should be treated in the main tank.

If you'd been treating for fin rot it's likely that the meds caused a minicycle causing a bit more stress on the fish which can lead to ich.

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"Indeed."
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Put the Betta in the main tank & the Cichlid in the hospital tank & continue to treat them.

For White Spots, i would raise the tank temperature by 2C.


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I posted this some time ago I hope this helps you

White-spot” Parasite, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

This disease is easy to recognise, as the skin of the infected fish becomes covered with white spots, each the size of a pinhead. Each spot represents the site of one, or sometimes two, parasites. All parts of the body gills, may be attacked.

The causative agent is named Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is a spherical and large by protozoan standards, measuring up to 1mm in diameter. Short, hair-like processes known as cilia are spread densely over the surface. A horseshoe-shape nucleus is also present which is clearly visible under the microscope.

By the means of the cilia the parasite rotates vigorously and burrows into the surface layer (epidermis) of its host. It feeds on skin cells and surface debris. The burrowing action causes a local irritation and the epidermis grows across the parasite to enclose it, thus forming a “White Spot”

Reproduction occurs away from the host. After maturing in the skin, which takes a few days to three weeks, depending on the temperature, the parasite bores out, swims away and comes to rest on a submerged object such as a stone, or plant. Here it forms a jelly-like cyst within which a series of rapid cell divisions take place. In a few hours, several hundred daughter cells or swarmers, are produced, which break out of the cyst to find a new host. Alighting on the skin, they burrow in to recommence the life cycle. If they fail to find a host within three to four days, they perish.

Symptoms
If the protozoan is introduced into a tank containing healthy fish, little harm may occur, other than a fleeting infection with a few parasites. If however, the fishes are already weakened for some other reason, e.g. lack of oxygen, the parasite will quickly cover the whole body surface, causing irritation and opening up wounds for secondary infections. The host mobility may become affected. In sever cases, death may result.

Prevention
If white-spot appears in an otherwise healthy tank, the parasite “must” have been introduced either as an adult on a newly acquired fish, or as the cyst form on, for example new stones, a plant or even added water. The only certain method of prevention, is to quarantine all new stock, including stones, plants etc; preferably in water at a temperature of 77F. Allow one week’s quarantine.

Treatments
There are too many treatments today to recommend any specific one. Many can be bought easily at aquarium outlets.


Several very interesting points to think about.

Very easy to recognise.
Its reproduction cycle.
No host they will die.
If introduced into a healthy tank little harm may occur.
Pay attention to all tank details.
Weakened fish, and lack of oxygen can/may and will cause sever deaths. All this is usually caused by poor tank maintenance and/or incorrect and faulty equipment.
Prevention is the best cure
A Parasite “must” be introduced into the tank.

Keith

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Thanks for the reply