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i have a female community tank, with the water conditions fine. well it wasan't fine, but then i corrected it with water cahnges. it is a 20 long with around 10-11 female bettas, that have been there for awhile(and so they rarly fight) one girl has had me concerned for sometime now.


she had a black thing on her side, under the scales, but then a few days later, it was gone. and some of her scales in that area as well. and it left a whole in her and the surrounding scales were up. anyway i add fungus clear to prevent anything. now it depends on the day, her scales are up like drospy, but then on other days there down. but on the right side of her body, the scales from the damage area, is still semi up. in fact most of her belly scales are semi up.

she is very fat, and full of eggs, but i haven't bred her yet. when you look behind here from the tail, you cant see the scales pine coned. when you look down, you can't see the scales pine coned. it is when you look from the bottom, you see they are pine coned, and from the sides you only see part of the scale up. very hard to explain, and take a pic of, you would have to be here.

again i have treated her and the tank with a fungus clear, (last time it was bad like really up, 0i add this and her scales went down) it is odd, b/c her scales are semi up, what can i do. she is fine, eating, and swiming fine.

"i have a female community tank, with the water conditions fine. well it wasan't fine, but then i corrected it with water cahnges"

What does that mean anyways

What size tank is it?
What's in the tank?
What are the tests if you can provide them right away?

It will be alot faster with these answered.

Hit me if I am wrong but Scales turned up are SYMTOMS of Dropsy that might explain why she is doing everything nomal. I am not saying thats what she has.....until you answer some q's =p

Thanks
Angel Eel

EDIT: I also would not medicate if you have no idea what it is yet.

Last edited by angeleel at 12-Aug-2005 18:16

i already answers two of those questions. the ammonia was alittle highier than i would have wanted it to be.

It could be low or it could be really really high, both will help you out if I knew the numbers.

I don't know if may have read the new post but.....

Here are a few....


http://www.fishprofiles.com/files/forums/The%20Hospital/62844.html?200508121806

http://www.fishprofiles.com/files/forums/The%20Hospital/55169.html?200502210353

http://www.fishprofiles.com/files/forums/The%20Hospital/43725.html?200407200128


As all three of these posts said it is almost impossible to get the right problem with the wrong numbers.

I would love to help you before your fish gets any worse but I am afriad that I can not do that until there is numbers.......

If you do not have a test kit your LFS will do it for you.


Sorry but let me help you

Angel Eel


As well all of you answers were not correct, they were evadeing the truth.... Female fish and a high count does not help at all...........
Last edited by angeleel at 13-Aug-2005 13:06

Last edited by angeleel at 13-Aug-2005 13:08

ammonia 1.5 ph7.2 temp 72

is that ppm


That really high for ammonia....You need to do water change asap.


Please could you also give me the rest of the tests?????

It will tell me if that is the only problem.

How many females are in the one tank, better then that give me all the inhabitants.

what is the size of the tank.

I think its that ammonia, that is due to to much waste in the tank...try and step up the water changes.

As far as right now I'd do a water change AFTER you give me the results to everything else.

Then if you can ALL the results after you change the tank.


If you can that would be great...


*pokes bettachris with a stick*

=)

There just to get ya to give me all of them =p

did u read my first post?]:|

have a female community tank, with the water conditions fine. well it wasan't fine, but then i corrected it with water cahnges. it is a 20 long with around 10-11 female bettas, that have been there for awhile(and so they rarly fight) one girl has had me concerned for sometime now.

i also looking under the table, and found jungle buddies ammonia clear, and i also added jungle buddies correct ph, which will bring it to a range of 6.2-7.3, i did a partical water change, as well added some aquarium salts.

there is nothing else in the tank, plants, and rocks, with a marineland pengiun 150 which does 150 gallons per hour, the lighting is a standard hood, the tank has no cracks, and has been up for 2 years, it gets changed every otehr week fully, and a 20% every week, they get feed tetramin colorbits, they are feed 2 times a day, the tank set-up is medium, with plants and driftwood, 1 air stone.

Last edited by bettachris at 14-Aug-2005 14:20

I am sorry but yes I did read your post and it said almost nothing about your tank.


As of now I think I am done helping you at all because you NEVER put the info needed.

As well now my personal opinion about you has deeply plumited. For you to yell at someone trying to help you is just rude.


IMO your tanks are probally all overstocked with the 300 fish you get every week....as well as the tanks you never tell anyone what size they are.

Have fun in the world, hope you find help somewhere else and don't spit on it.


Angel Eel

P.s I feel bad for your frontisoas.......and along with more of them.....

Let me get this straight. You have a 20g long with 10-11 female bettas and the tank has ammonia reading of 1.5.

IMO you need to get the ammonia under control. This is most likely a major part of the problem.

I wouldnt bother with changing the pH, most chemicals that do this do not make permanent changes and you'll end up with pH swings all the time in the tank. That would be another factor in why your fish is sick.

Get your water into good condition and see what happens from there.

What are your nitrite and nitrate readings? I dont want to hear they are "fine" because that doesnt give us anything to work with.

Until your water is what most people would consider normal;
ammonia 0 nitrite 0 and low nitrate

I would suggest you reduce feedings and only change water when the fish are looking stressed. (gasping for air, darting/scratching around tank, red gills)

Quarentine the fish with dropsy, keep the water perfect and feed her peas to see if that will reduce the pineconing.

In future trying to address all the issues in this link [link=http://www.fishprofiles.com/files/forums/The%20Hospital/43725.html?200407200128]http://www.fishprofiles.com/files/forums/The%20Hospital/43725.html?200407200128" style="COLOR: #004040[/link] will ensure you get answers much faster.

---

Before you criticize someone walk a mile in their shoes. That way you're a mile away and you have their shoes.

i have no idea what the nitrates are, i did add some of those controller tabs in, to try and stableize the water for now.

i took her out yesterday, but from what i know it isn't catch able.

Last edited by bettachris at 14-Aug-2005 17:31

i did add some of those controller tabs in, to try and stableize the water for now.

Stop wasting money on junk like that and get some test kits, maintain your tanks properly and all of your problems should be solved.

Yes, I too have to agree. "Fine" does not answer the question of "what levels are they"? Especially if you have not tested the levels of the parameters. As for adding "the tabs", that does not mean the levels are 0. As they may have been too high in the first place, and/or the tabs may not be correcting the levels as needed.

there is nothing else in the tank, plants, and rocks, with a marineland pengiun 150 which does 150 gallons per hour, the lighting is a standard hood, the tank has no cracks, and has been up for 2 years, it gets changed every otehr week fully, and a 20% every week, they get feed tetramin colorbits, they are feed 2 times a day, the tank set-up is medium, with plants and driftwood, 1 air stone.

OK, first let me say, THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM. You say your tank has been up for 2 years. Well actually it has only been up for 2 weeks maximum, as the completed cycle goes, which is what we determine as a time frame for a tank being "up and running". A full water change crashes your biological cycle. So, the 20% water changes in between your full water changes do nothing for the tank. Because you have no completed cycle. This is why your ammonia is so high. You should do 25% water changes weekly with the same water. Never should you do full water changes with a fully stocked tank. Also, why are you feeding them twice/day? Feed them once per day at most until you get the problem under control. And then only feed them as much as they will eat in about 5 mins. Any more will add to rot and add to the ammonia levels. IMO, you have described ammonia poisoning more than dropsy. As you have stated it gets better then comes back. Well, you are taking out the high ammonia with your full water changes, but it just comes back and poisons the fish again, over the next two weeks. This is because your cycle never completes.

And FYI, Chris you do need to give more precise info when posting. "Fine" is not a good answer, especially if you have not tested for something at all. Water changes do not always make things "fine".

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