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 L# The Hospital
  L# sick Parrot Cichlid
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Subscribesick Parrot Cichlid
peninha
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Small Fry
Posts: 6
Kudos: 1
Votes: 0
Registered: 01-Oct-2005
male portugal
my Parrot C. is sick, please help....
200 galons tank
water parameters
amonia - 0,1
nitrites - 0,0
nitrates - 5,0
ph - 7,0
temp. 26ºC

he was the best gourmet in the tank now he doesnt eat for more than 2 weeks. he is pale orange when he used to be vivid orange. he is static when he used to be the tank master and dominate more them half tank. he is scratching against rocks and also has ocasional white spots on his tail and upper fins. and he is getting thinner on the tail but his belly is a bit bloated.
can anyone help? he is too big for my hospital tank, so he must be there with all the others (2 oscars, 2 managuensis, and a few plecos)
Post InfoPosted 31-Oct-2006 21:10Profile Yahoo PM Edit Report 
carpe_diem
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Fish Addict
*Dreamer*
Posts: 555
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Registered: 18-Apr-2004
female australia
Hi and welcome to FP!
You will find lots of helpful advice on this site!

It sounds to me like ich..
How long have you had this parrot cichlid?
have you recently introduced any new fish to tank?




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Post InfoPosted 31-Oct-2006 23:11Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
keithgh
 
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*Ultimate Fish Guru*
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male australia au-victoria
Hello peninha welcome to FP
Does this help you at all.
Please reply if it does or does not help you



“White-spot” Parasite, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

This disease is easy to recognise, as the skin of the infected fish becomes covered with white spots, each the size of a pinhead. Each spot represents the site of one, or sometimes two, parasites. All parts of the body gills, may be attacked.

The causative agent is named Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is a spherical and large by protozoan standards, measuring up to 1mm in diameter. Short, hair-like processes known as cilia are spread densely over the surface. A horseshoe-shape nucleus is also present which is clearly visible under the microscope.

By the means of the cilia the parasite rotates vigorously and burrows into the surface layer (epidermis) of its host. It feeds on skin cells and surface debris. The burrowing action causes a local irritation and the epidermis grows across the parasite to enclose it, thus forming a “White Spot”

Reproduction occurs away from the host. After maturing in the skin, which takes a few days to three weeks, depending on the temperature, the parasite bores out, swims away and comes to rest on a submerged object such as a stone, or plant. Here it forms a jelly-like cyst within which a series of rapid cell divisions take place. In a few hours, several hundred daughter cells or swarmers, are produced, which break out of the cyst to find a new host. Alighting on the skin, they burrow in to recommence the life cycle. If they fail to find a host within three to four days, they perish.

Symptoms
If the protozoan is introduced into a tank containing healthy fish, little harm may occur, other than a fleeting infection with a few parasites. If however, the fishes are already weakened for some other reason, e.g. lack of oxygen, the parasite will quickly cover the whole body surface, causing irritation and opening up wounds for secondary infections. The host mobility may become affected. In sever cases, death may result.

Prevention
If white-spot appears in an otherwise healthy tank, the parasite “must” have been introduced either as an adult on a newly acquired fish, or as the cyst form on, for example new stones, a plant or even added water. The only certain method of prevention, is to quarantine all new stock, including stones, plants etc; preferably in water at a temperature of 77F. Allow one week’s quarantine.

Treatments
There are too many treatments today to recommend any specific one. Many can be bought easily at aquarium outlets.


Several very interesting points to think about.

Very easy to recognise.
Its reproduction cycle.
No host they will die.
If introduced into a healthy tank little harm may occur.
Pay attention to all tank details.
Weakened fish, and lack of oxygen can/may and will cause sever deaths. All this is usually caused by poor tank maintenance and/or incorrect and faulty equipment.
Prevention is the best cure
A Parasite “must” be introduced into the tank.

This information was collected from Fresh Water Tropical Fish

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info

Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

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Post InfoPosted 01-Nov-2006 06:53Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
peninha
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Small Fry
Posts: 6
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Registered: 01-Oct-2005
male portugal
thank you so much guys for yr help. meanwhile the situation changed, the whitish spots on his gills dont look like itch , its more like its skin is coming off, as he is, since yesterday, on a spot, leaning against a big log and the log is now full of white skin..its like he is peeling off...very quiet and his gills arent moving much.

no new fishes have been introduced lately, nor in the past months..and apart from some nitrates (cant have plants to consume them, so only water changes can get this tank ride of them)the values are near 0 on amonia and 0 for nitrites, as i have the most powerful filtration i ever seen on a 200G tank. a 40G sump with loads of biological media, 2 UV's sterilizers 11W+5W 2 aquamedic Carbolireactors tubes one with coal and another with zeolithes, plus 2 bucket filters a Eheim proII 2028 and a Pennplax Cascade 1500... i believe my tanks's water is more drinkable then tap water in many cities...
water changes half tank every 2 weeks. already tried Octozin treatment (Waterlife), and also Oodinium(Sera)
dont know what to do to him, and my wife loves that fish so much she'll cry if he dies.
Post InfoPosted 01-Nov-2006 17:14Profile Yahoo PM Edit Delete Report 
So_Very_Sneaky
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female canada
Hi there,
I would up the water change schedule,
to once a week 35% minimum.
Once every 2 weeks with those fish in there
is not enough.

Oodinium is a salt water parasite I believe,
why would you treat for that?

It sounds to me like it has ICH and now has
a secondary condition to boot.
I would treat this fish with heat (temps of 84-86F),
and aquarium salt (1 tablespoon per 10 gallons),
as well as a good broad spectrum antibiotic, to fight
the secondary infection. Maracyn 2 is great, so is
Furan 2. Furan 2 is the meds Nitrofurazone and Furazolidone, so any med containing those will work.
So would Triple Sulfa and Kanamycin, and all are
safe with salt.

Good luck.


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Post InfoPosted 01-Nov-2006 22:12Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
DeletedPosted 01-Nov-2006 22:15
This post has been deleted
peninha
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Small Fry
Posts: 6
Kudos: 1
Votes: 0
Registered: 01-Oct-2005
male portugal
thank you very much sneaky... already added some salt yesterday evening...he is hanging on....but he aint well definately..so i will try raising temp today to 82F and sunday maybe till 84F, so i dont rise it too suddenly.
oodinium is a Sera medicine to fight fresh and saltwater bacteria and protozoa infections... i am trying all i can, cause this fish is so special to us....



Post InfoPosted 02-Nov-2006 18:53Profile Yahoo PM Edit Delete Report 
peninha
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Small Fry
Posts: 6
Kudos: 1
Votes: 0
Registered: 01-Oct-2005
male portugal

thank you all, for the help....my Parrot is back to swimming around, bullying everybody else in the tank, he's bright orange again, and back to real estate business cause he's taking over the land again. he just aint eating but i bought Entice from Seachem and will try to make him eat something.
U all been very very helpful.
Post InfoPosted 06-Nov-2006 15:48Profile Yahoo PM Edit Delete Report 
peninha
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Small Fry
Posts: 6
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Votes: 0
Registered: 01-Oct-2005
male portugal
here he is, back on its fins


Post InfoPosted 07-Nov-2006 17:59Profile Yahoo PM Edit Delete Report 
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