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well its no big deal i'm just wondering what the treatment time is for ich cause today administered some "multi cure" which contains malachite green and methelene blue and i got on to the treatment as soon as i saw the first white spots and there were very few at that and also is white spot not very active cold water or what cause the GF's have never had it all my two years of keeping 'em
so to sum up:
1.how long does the treatment take for ich?
2.is ich uncommon is cold water?

thanx

declan

victa_fish,

I treat with Quick Cure and it seems to work well.

I make sure the temperature is about or over 80F and use a quarter dosage. I reduce it because I have Tetras (1/2) and plants (1/2 again). I do that every other day, and in between do 20% water changes.

As to cold water – how cold is cold? Usually, the Ich cycle is slowed down with colder water and as such it will take longer to treat.

I will try to find the links that refer to this topic and edit my post with them.

Hope this helps,

Ingo

How often do you have Ich and why?

Last edited by LITTLE_FISH at 02-Jul-2005 06:16

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

well by cold i mean between 15 and 20C (59F and 68F)
and so like i repeat the dose every day for a few days right????

I posted this some time ago.

“White-spot” Parasite, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

This disease is easy to recognise, as the skin of the infected fish becomes covered with white spots, each the size of a pinhead. Each spot represents the site of one, or sometimes two, parasites. All parts of the body gills, may be attacked.

The causative agent is named Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is a spherical and large by protozoan standards, measuring up to 1mm in diameter. Short, hair-like processes known as cilia are spread densely over the surface. A horseshoe-shape nucleus is also present which is clearly visible under the microscope.

By the means of the cilia the parasite rotates vigorously and burrows into the surface layer (epidermis) of its host. It feeds on skin cells and surface debris. The burrowing action causes a local irritation and the epidermis grows across the parasite to enclose it, thus forming a “White Spot”

Reproduction occurs away from the host. After maturing in the skin, which takes a few days to three weeks, depending on the temperature, the parasite bores out, swims away and comes to rest on a submerged object such as a stone, or plant. Here it forms a jelly-like cyst within which a series of rapid cell divisions take place. In a few hours, several hundred daughter cells or swarmers, are produced, which break out of the cyst to find a new host. Alighting on the skin, they burrow in to recommence the life cycle. If they fail to find a host within three to four days, they perish.

Symptoms
If the protozoan is introduced into a tank containing healthy fish, little harm may occur, other than a fleeting infection with a few parasites. If however, the fishes are already weakened for some other reason, e.g. lack of oxygen, the parasite will quickly cover the whole body surface, causing irritation and opening up wounds for secondary infections. The host mobility may become affected. In sever cases, death may result.

Prevention
If white-spot appears in an otherwise healthy tank, the parasite “must” have been introduced either as an adult on a newly acquired fish, or as the cyst form on, for example new stones, a plant or even added water. The only certain method of prevention, is to quarantine all new stock, including stones, plants etc; preferably in water at a temperature of 77F. Allow one week’s quarantine.

Treatments
There are too many treatments today to recommend any specific one. Many can be bought easily at aquarium outlets.


Several very interesting points to think about.

Very easy to recognise.
Its reproduction cycle.
No host they will die.
If introduced into a healthy tank little harm may occur.
Pay attention to all tank details.
Weakened fish, and lack of oxygen can/may and will cause sever deaths. All this is usually caused by poor tank maintenance and/or incorrect and faulty equipment.
Prevention is the best cure
A Parasite “must” be introduced into the tank.

This information was collected from Fresh Water Tropical Fish


Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
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Keith,

What an excellent explanation!

I would like to raise a question regarding your statement (and I concur with it)

A Parasite “must” be introduced into the tank.

Obviously, if no stage of Ich is in the tank then you never have it (until you introduce it). But I found information on the [link=Algone]http://www.algone.com/ich.htm" style="COLOR: #ff6633[/link] website that makes me wonder a little. I would like to quote this part:

The Ich parasite can be introduced by new arrivals of fish, or be dormant in the aquarium itself.

Dormant? How does that happen? I was under the impression that if you had Ich and defeated it, it would be gone. Now they throw a dormant stage in the mix?


Any ideas of what they are talking about?

Thanks,

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

LITTLE_FISH

When I first started with aquariums 30+ years ago dormant was used a lot, I personally thing little was know about it in comparison to todays scientific & technology of aquariums. I personally cannot see how it can remain dormant in a live working tank. Saying that I am not an expert just an experienced user.
It "could" be possible in a cold water tank and be activated by heated water.
Again saying that it is extremly commom in our area during the colder months of the year, and that is the main reason I prepare all my water one week inadvance.

I do know snails and snail eggs can remain dormant for several years, again only experience.

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW

yeah well LITTLE_FISH if there is dormant ich in the tank it would have to have been introduced at some point in ime like i meen you don't buy first had tanks with ich already in it!

Dormancy occurs when ich density grows to a certain level.

Cup_of_Lifenoodles

Can you tell me a little more about that dormant stage?
Where does it fit in the Ich development cycle?
How long can Ich be dormant?
Could you provide a link to a source that might explain this phenomenon?

Any additional information would be appreciated, given that I have never heard of it before.

Thanks a lot,

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

try googling it.

There are two forms of ich latency; the cyst stage and the sexual stage. These are completely separate from one another. When one considers ich, it would seem that the organism dotting the finnage of our fish reproduce in an asexual manner. This is true. In it's "virile" state, ich multiplies asexually. Once the epidemic is controlled, the free swimming ich will have been destroyed. However, fish that have overcome the diease will have obtained a minute form of "immunity" to the disease. Therefore, there is a possibility that the disease remains on the fish, reproducing in a manner as close as the organism can get to "sexual". Though harmless in this form, it is also resistant to typical ich treatments. Similarly, sometimes the disease is not overcome, however, the cysts turn inactive and remain in the fish and/or the aquarium. In both cases, neither can be detected, and once conditions are appropriate, both revert back to the ich that we know (these conditions, as stated, are believed to have something to do with density).



Last edited by Cup_of_Lifenoodles at 05-Jul-2005 17:30

Last edited by Cup_of_Lifenoodles at 06-Jul-2005 12:15

Treatment occurs as such:
raise the temperature to 82-85 degrees. Keep the water well oxygenated. Add one teaspoon of table salt per 0.6-5gallon, depending on the intensity of the outbreak (0.6 at the very most, 5 at the very least).