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justin84![]() Fingerling Posts: 45 Kudos: 30 Votes: 20 Registered: 08-Dec-2004 ![]() ![]() | So I've had my tank setup for about 5 years. I've been busy with work and haven't had time to do water changes for the past 2 months and now I can’t get my water back to good quality. None of my fish have died. I suppose they all have gotten used to it. I want to add more fish soon so I’m trying to get my quality back up. Nitrate 40ppm Nitrite 0ppm Hardness 120ppm Alkalinity 80ppm pH 6.4ppm I'm not sure how one affects the other and vise versa. I'm doing regular water changes and it seems I have to add pH + every time I test the water. I have some aquarium drift wood, is this the problem? I don't want to get rid of them because I think they make my tank. 55gal Tank:130 watt coral lights,Eheim Wet/Dry 2227 Canister Filter,Powerhead, Co2 Injection and a heater. |
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FRANK![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hi Justin, In older tanks the pH normally drops as the vast amount of organic waste turns to organic acids. Generally the nitrate will climb as well, sometimes into the 100s! Depending upon your KH value, the driftwood could be contributing to the depressed pH. Carbonate Hardness (KH) is a measure of the carbonate ion and the waters' ability to buffer acids. If it is low then a small amount of acid will have a greater effect on the pH and lower it more. You will need to mentally divide the non-planted parts of your tank into four sections. Then perform a weekly water change of 10-20% (you don't want to do any major water change because, as you said, the fish have grown used to the worsening conditions). With each water change vacuum a different section of gravel - go right down to the tanks' glass bottom when cleaning. This way, doing weekly water changes and gravel vacuuming, in a month you will have cleaned the entire tank. Start with that procedure, and you should be right back where you want to be within a month and the fish non the worse for wear. Frank ![]() -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
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Fishrockmysox![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Hobbyist Posts: 94 Kudos: 58 Votes: 12 Registered: 20-Oct-2006 ![]() ![]() | My Nitrate is 200. Consider yourself lucky ![]() 10G- 6 Zebra Danios, 1 Upside Down Catfish 20G- 1 Goldfish 72G(maybe95)- Need Stock suggestions |
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FRANK![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hi, "We" try to keep our nitrate readings under 10. With a heavily planted tank, we try to hover around 10 or so. Tanks with readings of 40+ need help by performing regular maintenance. Tanks in-excess of 100 need immediate attention as described above. If your tank is 100+ you need to do the maintenance in stages. The fish slowly acclimated to the worsening conditions, and you do NOT want to do anything radical and flip the water conditions back the other way overnight as that will stress the fish and could very well kill them. Look at your tank and mentally divide the non-planted areas of your tank into 4 sections. Then do a 20% water change and vacuum the gravel right down to the glass bottom in one section. Wait a week, and do another 20% change and vacuum a different section. That way, over a month you will have cleaned the entire tank, and by then gotten a handle on the water. Frank ![]() -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
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Fishrockmysox![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Hobbyist Posts: 94 Kudos: 58 Votes: 12 Registered: 20-Oct-2006 ![]() ![]() | So, did your chemistry "fix" yet? I hope it did. -FS 10G- 6 Zebra Danios, 1 Upside Down Catfish 20G- 1 Goldfish 72G(maybe95)- Need Stock suggestions |
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