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Considering converting tank to planted. . . | |
dreamseeker12 Hobbyist Posts: 66 Kudos: 34 Votes: 0 Registered: 06-Feb-2006 | and need lots of help. I have an outbreak of diatoms in my fish tank and I wonder that if I tear the thing down, and do a planted tank that the algae will go away. First off, is my theory correct? And if it is, well this is my first tank (a ten gallon) and I just want the algae gone, so are there any other solutions? Can't I just drop some copper or whatnot into the tank and have it clear it up? Or buy a snail? Thanks Fish are like potato chips. . .you can't have just one |
Posted 18-Apr-2006 03:08 | |
Posted 18-Apr-2006 03:09 | This post has been deleted |
Bob Wesolowski Mega Fish Posts: 1379 Kudos: 1462 Registered: 14-Oct-2004 | Seeker, Diatomaceous (brown) algae is normal when you first establish your tank. The causes are a lack of light and excess silicates. The cures are an increase in light intensity/duration and water changes to reduce silicates leaching from your rocks or substrates. Dropping chemicals into the tank won't cure it but correcting the causes will make it go away. __________ "To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research." researched from Steven Wright |
Posted 18-Apr-2006 08:24 | |
GirlieGirl8519 Fish Master *Malawi Planter* Posts: 1468 Kudos: 1029 Votes: 35 Registered: 25-Mar-2005 | I'm with Bob. Everyone tries to solve their algae problems with algae eaters and chemicals. The truth is, that may help (algae eaters), but it won't solve the problem. Find the source and fix that. Then there will be no need for chemicals or added fish. Plants are not a problem solver either. I have 3 planted tanks and I have algae in each one. I don't have any brown algae, but I have green spot and green brush algae. I even have algae eaters...but the problem isn't solved. I have to work on not overfeeding, getting my light right (not leaving it on too long), knowing which fertilizers to use when...it takes alot of work. But, will be much better and less expensive then starting over in a new tank. Good luck! |
Posted 18-Apr-2006 20:57 | |
dreamseeker12 Hobbyist Posts: 66 Kudos: 34 Votes: 0 Registered: 06-Feb-2006 | Thanks guys ^_^ The only problem is: I don't know what the cause of it is (other than high levels of silicon and it being a new tank). So um how exactly do I fix that? Leave the light on longer? (How do you increase the light?) And if it is high silicon should I change my water source? Like start using bottled water rather than tap? Or half bottled and half hot tap water? And how would I keep bottled water hot? Just not refridgerate it? I also have water I can get from my fridge would that be suitable? Or should I just deal with high silicon and stick with treated tap? (Sorry for the questions, but I know NOTHING about getting rid of algae other than getting a snail to help graze it) Fish are like potato chips. . .you can't have just one |
Posted 18-Apr-2006 22:13 | |
Bob Wesolowski Mega Fish Posts: 1379 Kudos: 1462 Registered: 14-Oct-2004 | Good questions, Seeker. The cures are an increase in light intensity/duration and water changes to reduce silicates leaching from your rocks or substrates. Increase your light either in terms of intensity or duration. Duration is the least expensive way to increase the light. Put a timer on your fixture and set it so that the light is on for 10 hours per day. A cheap timer at a big box hardware store will set you back $8. Set it for five hours with a 2 hour off period then on again for another 5 hours. After you set your fixture with the timer, replace the bulb with a new fluorescent bulb if the existing bulb is old. Use a bright white or cool blue from the same hardware store. The new bulb should be much brighter (more intense) than the old bulb. You can buy a specialty bulb from your lfs for 3 to 4 times the money. Bulbs are good from 6 months to a year but intensity falls during the period. Change the water as your substrate is leaching silica into the water. It is typical for new aquariums. Water changes reduce the silicates. You may have some in your tap water but it is miniscule compared to the amount that your aquarium receives from the substrate. Lastly, use your tap water for water changes. If you have the time and ability to store, aerate and heat it - wonderful. I don't have the time, energy or space. I use a Python to do my water changes and to refill the tank. I adjust the water temperature by feel at the tap by playing with the hot and cold controls. Usually, the temp will vary by 1F... __________ "To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research." researched from Steven Wright |
Posted 18-Apr-2006 23:03 | |
dreamseeker12 Hobbyist Posts: 66 Kudos: 34 Votes: 0 Registered: 06-Feb-2006 | Hmm. . .can anyone tell me anything about CO2 injections? I know next to nothing about them, and are they necessary for all planted tanks? And do any of these plants need a CO2 injectiion? ~Petita Nana (Anubias barteri 'petite' ~Brown Wendtii Crypt (cryptocoryne wendtii 'brown') ~Tropical Hornworst (Ceratophyllum submersum) ~African Water Fern (Bolbitis hevdelotii) ~Bacopa (bacopa caroliniana) ~Giant Hydro (Nomaphila Stricta) ~Downoi (pogostemon helfen 'downoi') ~Coffee Anubias (Anubias barteri 'coffeefolia') ~Marbled Nana (Anubias barteri 'marble') Fish are like potato chips. . .you can't have just one |
Posted 19-Apr-2006 03:43 | |
Babelfish Administrator Small Fry with Ketchup Posts: 6833 Kudos: 8324 Votes: 1570 Registered: 17-Apr-2003 | dreamseeker, That question would be better answered in the planted forum , however since you posed it, all plants will benifit from CO2 injections, even java fern loves it . I'll be happy to move this thread over to planted for you, as that seems to be the direction of your questions vs. the actual layout and design of the tank (in which case it's welcome stay here . ^_^ |
Posted 19-Apr-2006 18:38 | |
dreamseeker12 Hobbyist Posts: 66 Kudos: 34 Votes: 0 Registered: 06-Feb-2006 | I don't mind if you move it ^_^ I hadn't realised it mattered but hey, what if I did this? See I got my tank in one of those kits at wally world, and so I can't tell you what kind of lighting it has or anything, but what if I replaced it with a better light bulb, bought another ten gallon (for nine dollars and without the hood, heating and lighting) cycled that, planted that, and when it is ready for fish, simply transferred my fish from this ten gallon to that one? Will that work? Fish are like potato chips. . .you can't have just one |
Posted 19-Apr-2006 22:09 | |
GirlieGirl8519 Fish Master *Malawi Planter* Posts: 1468 Kudos: 1029 Votes: 35 Registered: 25-Mar-2005 | Does your hood have 2 screw in bulbs? Or does it have one long bulb? My 10g came in a kit with 2 screw in bulbs. I just bought two compact fluorescent bulbs that are 10w each. That gives me 2 wpg and I can grow low and medium light plants. CO2 is not needed. If you can get 2wpg you can grow: anubias crypts bacopa hygro (it grows a little too fast for a 10g) hornwort The other plants on your list I don't know about. Before you start setting up a new tank, I would give the tank time to settle. Do water changes like Bob suggested. Add more plants if you can upgrade the lighting. Leave the lights on for a little longer and see what happens. All my tanks have had brown algae in the beginning. Once you work on fixing the problem, it will eventually go away. Give it time. |
Posted 20-Apr-2006 17:31 |
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