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Months ago I began posting about plans for planting my 42-gal. hexagon tank.

For reasons including availability, finances, and cowardice, the final plant list was somewhat different then the original plan. Current flora includes lace java fern, vallisneria asiatica, an amazon sword, crypt. balansae, anubias nana, and two unidentified varieties crypts.

It has been three weeks since I planted the tank and I'm experiencing a couple of regrets and problems.

Regrets: I should have doubled if not tripled the amount of lace java fern. I also wish I had attached java moss to the upper 2/3 of the driftwood. Unfortunately adding these plants will be difficult since I'll need to do it without removing the driftwood.

Problems: The lace java ferns and anubias developed dead spots. I suspect I let them get too dry while attaching them to the driftwood and rock. There is black algae growing on the anubias. Plus, the sword is developing some spots that may be from malnutrition.

Here are photos of the tank, three weeks post planting. I've included a couple of close-ups of the ailing plants. Note: The crypt balansae is behind the rock and is not visible in the photos since it's only about 2" tall.

Comments and/or suggestions would be appreciated.


Edited to add: I have 80 watts over tank. base of substrate is a thin layer of eco-complete


Last edited by zoeandmaia at 10-Oct-2005 22:31

The planting is very attractive. I would expect to have some algae on the anubias in a newly planted tank. You may want to look at the logs of Tetratech and Little Fish under planted tanks to read on their algae problems and Bensaf's recommendations for combatting the algae.

I use Eco as the substrate in my tanks. I do not know if you will receive tremendous benefits from using a thin layer of Eco. I supplement the Eco with "pond pills" and KNO3. Pond pills are substrate fetilizer tabs for ponds. I break them in half then insert them into the substrate at least 3 inches from swords and nymphea. It seems to perk them up.

The 125G tank is dosed with a teaspoon of KNO3 each week. The potassium nitrate is from stump remover purchased at Lowes. The less than $5.00 purchase provides almost a year of fertilizer.

The balansae in my tank is a rear planting. It grew to the top of the tank and then across the surface. Wonderful plant with a very attractive bronze patina.

__________
"To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research."
researched from Steven Wright

Firstly Zoe , that is an excellent lay out on an incredibly difficult sized and shaped tank to work with. It has great potential if you can get the plant issues sorted. Don't give up.

Definately your problems are all nutrient related.

The sword is suffering from either a nitrate or potassium deficiency, with the holes I'd go with Potassium. But a regular dose of Potassium Nitrate would provide both.

The brush algae is due to Co2. This type of algae does great when Co2 levels are unstable. The only way to keep it at bay is to keep the Co2 either very high or extremely low, but constantly so. With pressurised Co2 keeping the levels high and stable is relatively easy. With non Co2 the best way to keep low and stable is do only do water changes every few months and top up for evaporation. Water changes give a quick shot of good co2 from the tap water which doesn't do much for the plants but this algae likes. Another option is to dose Excel. Keeping the Anubias shaded will help.

Drying out is lethal for any Java Fern, they just can't take it. Nothing can be done except to wait for new growth (which take a long time) or chuck it and get a new one.

Really all you're missing is a good fert regime to keep the plants happy. How much and how often will depend on whether or not you're using Co2.

If not using Co2 , no water changes and a small pinch of Kno3 and an even smaller pinch (about half the size of a grain of rice) of KH2PO4 , and 2-3mls of a good liquid fert once a week would do it.
Using Flourish Excel is a very good option and dose as above 2-3 times a week.
This will provide all the plants need and keep the algae at bay.

You can always dip the Anubias in a 19:1 water bleach solution for about 1 minute (don't dip the roots). Rinse thouroughly with tap water after. This will kill off the present brush algae.But be aware it will come back unless the above is tackled. Normally I wouldn't reccomend this but Anubias are tough buggers and take this treatment ok, but still not something you want to do more then once or twice a year. It's clean up before you put things in order rather then effective algae control.

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

Wow that really is impressive Zoe!
Hexes offer their own set of issues and what you've done is !.

Since bensaf already commented on the CO2 (among other things :%)) I just wanted to expand on the co2 issue. IME java fern simply loves co2. I've had java outgrow wistera once co2 was addes so if you're not running it, do so. You should see the java increase the way you wanted it to.
Also, you mentioned that you wanted moss attached to the upper portions but couldnt without removing the driftwood? Not sure why this is the problem it is but I've attached moss and fern to pieces in the tank. Sure it's a little frustrating but it can be done. Large twisty ties are your friend here . Yes they're a little obvious but use a dark black or the green ones from a garden shop. Tuck the ends in and you should be fine in a few weeks to remove. I've also used the long roots from java fern to hold down java moss. Talk about plant warfare!
Once again excellent job!

^_^[hr width='40%']"Love's the Funeral Of Hearts, and an ode for cruelty,
When angels cry blood, on flowers of evil in bloom
and a plea for mercy,
where Love is a gun separating me from you" ~[/font]

Thanks so much for the informative responses. I'm a little rushed but I think I wanted to address all of the raised issues.

First I'm sorry to report that for the time being this is a non-CO2 tank. Money is a hinderance. I've read some about diy CO2 but I'm a big dummy when it comes to science projects. It is on my to-do list, but not in the immediate future.

So without the CO2 I should limit my water changes . . . How often should I plan to change the water and how much water should I replace each time?

The closest thing I have to ferts is Seachem Equilibrium which says it raises the mineral content. Any thoughts on this product? Also does it expire? I've probably had it for 6+ months. I'll check my lfs this weekend for other ferts but I don't expect I'll find much. I'll most likely have to order ferts online.

The driftwood is attached to a 12" x 8" metal plate. It was the first thing in the tank so the eco-complete and gravel are layered on top of it. There are also newly sown plants above the plate. Thus removing the dw would involve disturbing the entire set-up. Replacing the dw would be nearly impossible without ripping everything out and starting from scratch.

I definately want to add java moss and more lace java fern to the dw. I'll just have to choose a day when I have patience to spare.

Thanks again for your comments and suggestions!!

I just reread your post, Bensaf. Do you mean NO water changes . . . NEVER??

Seachem Equilibrium is good stuff. It has lots of Potassium, which may address your dead spots, plus Iron, Magnesium, Calcium, & Sulfate. I dose 1/2 tsp of it weekly in my 42g, low-light, non-CO2 tank. I've also been using the non-CO2 EI method (the no-water-change thing that Bensaf mentioned) on that tank. I think the recommendation is only do water change every 4-6 months (only top up water in the meantime) so that your plants can adapt to the low CO2 (water change basically adds some CO2 back to the tank). The method also assumes that you have lots of plants, which will suck up the nitrate and other baddies from the water. I have lots of weeds (Elodea, Wisteria, etc.) in my 42g, so the nitrate level never goes above 5ppm unless I add some (even though it's slightly overstocked with fish).

Here's a link on the non-CO2 EI method:
http://www.barrreport.com/forums/showthread.php?t=395

Last edited by upikabu at 11-Oct-2005 23:20

-P

As upikabu described, only top up for evaporation. Tank needs to be heavily planted.

For your situation, the Excel method may be a better option. If you have equilibrium available locally I assume you can get Excel, same maker.

The Equilibrium is only part of the equation, you need to be sure ALL nutrients are always available not just a select few.

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

Even if things don't work out for you in the plant department, at least you've got some great fish filling your tank. I'm a sucker for c. perugiae.