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  L# Any way, besides using charcoal to "polish" the tank water?
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SubscribeAny way, besides using charcoal to "polish" the tank water?
daddySEAL
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EditedEdited by daddySEAL
Even with weekly 1/3 tank water changes, now without using charcoal in my power filters anymore, I'm finding the water is somewhat "cloudier" than I'd like it to be.
It's not tannin from wood, or anything but a "slightly green" haze coloration....possibly algea from my "Daylight" flourescent light.

I have one of those diotomatous earth filters that I've Never used even once....because cleaning, backflushing and the cost of refilling them is more than I want to deal with. Yes, I know the diatom charge can be reused a few times, but before long they get "funky/mildewy"!

Are there any types of material/mechanical filter very fine material medium that I can add to my Marineland Emperor power filter fiber(just a loosly woven wooly pad substance) mechanical filter inserts to help the ones that come with it to remove more of the "hazy particles" in the water?

Maybe a very thin piece of soft foam for at least a couple tank filtering cycles?

Making the tank even Somewhat clearer?
Post InfoPosted 21-May-2008 17:28Profile Homepage PM Edit Report 
FRANK
 
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EditedEdited by FRANK
Hi,
What you are seeing is not the results of removing the
charcoal, but rather the fact that the particles, individually,
are simply too small for your filter to remove.
The term "polish, or polishing" the water comes from
advertisements for Diatom Filters. They will remove one
micron size particles and in effect polish the water so
well that the fish appear to be swimming in liquid crystal.

I've a diatom filter, the Vortex, and I use it regularly
to finish off my tank after a major cleaning & replanting.
It's a simple matter to pour one cup of the powder into the glass jar,
insert the plastic mesh support/bag,
fill with water, seal the jug, and then fill the
hoses with water. Connect the hoses, run till
the water circulating through hoses are clear, and then
set the intake and output hoses at opposite ends of the
tank. For my tank, in less than an hour, mission accomplished.
Setting up the filter takes all of, maybe 10 minutes,
with distractions.

I've never tried to reuse the powder, by the time I've
finished, it resembles a muddy muck and I simply toss it.
The replacement powder comes in a 1-5 pound bag, there was
never any sense in trying to clean that muck and reuse it.

Nothing, absolutely nothing, will clean a tank like a
diatom filter. Do keep in mind that they are so efficient
that they frequently clog up after a few hours and because
of this they are not designed to replace your main filter,
and not designed to run 24/7.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--
Post InfoPosted 22-May-2008 08:10Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
daddySEAL
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EditedEdited by daddySEAL
Right FRANK,
Mine is a Vortex too.
I guess the Scottish "penny pincher" in me came out years ago when I had one for a previous 125g tank....and I tried to save money on the cost diatomaceous earth recharging. I never did run it continuously (of course), but about every 2 weeks (when my "then old type" filter couldn't keep up with a big Oscar I had (usually food residue). And at that time in my life, diatomaceous earth seemed to be very pricey in bulk so I tried to use it 2 or 3 times over a month, before refilling it.

Wow...I just did a Google search and found 4.5 US pounds for $14(US)....Cool. I can afford that!
(you rinse/flush our the bag and then refill it with new diatoms when you want to use it, right?

Please tell me something....I have two 55g tanks and soon will will be setting up a 6 foot tank. My question is...IF all the fish in each tank are and have been healthy for many months, can I use the same diatom charge on Vortexing all the tanks....one at a time?

Yes, they are Miraculous water cleaners!
Post InfoPosted 22-May-2008 14:48Profile Homepage PM Edit Delete Report 
FRANK
 
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Hi,
Yes, after each session I rinse out the jar and bag and
set them aside to dry.
When I want to use it again, I add a new charge (cup
of powder) and run it.


Personally, I would not use the same filter, of any kind,
between tanks without cleaning it. While I realize
what you are saying, that all three tanks are healthy,
I would not do that. These particular filters will
filter out everything down to a micron, in my mind
there is just too much potential for transferring
problems, even unknown problems.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--
Post InfoPosted 22-May-2008 16:27Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
daddySEAL
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EditedEdited by daddySEAL
OK,
I'll "fire the baby up" soon and have a squeaky clear tank again!!

Thank you, I pretty much knew using it between tanks wasn't probably the best idea. Just (again...the cost saving "scottish side" of me coming out...Ha!)

Thank you FRANK

dS
Post InfoPosted 22-May-2008 16:43Profile Homepage PM Edit Delete Report 
keithgh
 
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just a loosely woven wool pad substance

I think you answer is here to start of with. The filter material is just not coping. In my Eheim Pro11 The top basket had one fine filter pad. I bought some very fine and thicker pad material and cut it to size. Now I run two of these thicker pads and it does a better job.

I also use GIO liquid (Many think this is snake oil) but again it works it makes the water cloudy to start of with. What it does it collects all the fine particles and deposits them in the bottom of your canister filter.

Ever since I have been using GIO I have always noticed a lot of gunk at the bottom of my canister and the top filter pads are a lot cleaner which allows for a better filtration.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
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Post InfoPosted 24-May-2008 06:36Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
daddySEAL
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EditedEdited by daddySEAL
Guys,

I must confess to being "a bit" of a perfectionist.
And my water is not "really" bad, but only slightly hazy and just not the True Clarity that I like. And since removing the charchoal inserts that came with my filters, it is jubt not clear enough "for me", not the fish.

keithgh.
You are right about my Emperor 400 filters without charcoal inserts not "doing (clarity)the job" anymore.

What is the name of the filtering pad material you mentioned?
Is it the same that FRANK pointed out?
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4231

I also looked up GIO liquid (as you inmormed me of)on the web, it sounds good, "BUT" found it was "specialized" for various types of fish. I saw an "African Cichlid" form (among others...Arrowana fish, catfish, etc.). What type would I use for my SA/CA cichlids and other fish, please?
Post InfoPosted 24-May-2008 19:09Profile Homepage PM Edit Delete Report 
keithgh
 
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daddySEAL
GIO
My LFS makes his own up but the original GIO for different species I have no idea see if you can contact them or do some Google searching.

The filter pad I buy I have seen in several thickness also with varying filtering levels from very open to a tightly packed for that extra fine filtration.

I personally would buy it and see how it goes. In the long term it is far cheaper than buying brand name cut to size filter pads.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW
Post InfoPosted 26-May-2008 02:14Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
Callatya
 
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EditedEdited by Callatya
If all you want are the tiny pores and polishing power and not the adsorbent qualities, why not try using the cheaper "useless" type of charcoal -not activated carbon- that removes much less? You'd still lose some things that you might want to keep, but it might solve your polishing problem. Not sure if it'd work as it has much less surface area and fewer spaces for 'dust' to get trapped, but maybe have a read and see what you think? It could be worth looking into.

Maybe red lava rock could work? It would depend on the specific rock and the filter type though, it is usually just used as biomedia.

Is it possibly the mesh of the bag that has been doing the job? perhaps the carbon did some, but also slowed the particles enough to get stuck in the bag? I only ask because I have a fine mesh bag that I use in one tank for exactly that reason.

Finer sponges can block the water flow too much and cause flow issues, so it really depends on the filter. I haven't ever had one so I can't really help there.

I think it is likely that time will see it clear up anyway, but I know how irritating it can be looking at a less-than-perfect tank

For animals, the entire universe has been neatly divided into things to (a) mate with, (b) eat, (c) run away from, and (d) rocks. - Terry Pratchett

Post InfoPosted 27-May-2008 17:35Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
keithgh
 
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I actually use a fine 3-6mm red scoria as my first filter material in the Eheim Pro11 and it does clean out a lot of the bigger gunk but not all the fine particles.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW
Post InfoPosted 28-May-2008 08:36Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
daddySEAL
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I thank Everyone for your help.

dS
Post InfoPosted 28-May-2008 19:50Profile Homepage PM Edit Delete Report 
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