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Hello all .

I already starting cycling my new/old 10g. Tommorow I will add 4 zebra danios and cycle for 1 month, then stock it with a trio of platys and maybe a gourami or two. I bought 1 anachris and 1 anubias nano, alreayd floating around my tank. Should I leave the anubia planted in the ground? For now its in the little black container i got it from, with roots pushing out. It's a gorgeus plant and i really dont want to lose it. Only have 1.5WPG, so i should be using liquid ferts later on.

Anything I should keep in mind?
Thank you very much. (:
And a special thanks to keigth, whose name i spelled wrong, for helping me so much in chat yesterday.

anubias is a fairly low light plant so that should be fine. im not sure so maybe someone who posts after me can confirm, but i think it ikes to be rooted to lava rock or DW

anubias nana:
tie it with some thread or fishing line to a piece of drift wood but lowly so the roots can read the gravel....

the anacharis should be anchored down so it can try to root itself.

both will do fine on fish waste and low light but if you want plant a few more anubias and liquid fert with low doses.

\\\\\\\"an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of the cure\\\\\\\"

Anacharis can be grown floating, so its up to you what you want to do with that. Anacharis is supposedly an easy plant that grows extremely fast, but I'll be the first to admit that I've never had any luck with it...

The Anubias nana, however, should be anchored to a rock or driftwood or something. Tying it to a rock works rather well; green thread is hard to see and will eventually break down in the aquarium, but by that time your Anubias should be well anchored. Fishing line is clear and is another alternative, but that stuff doesn't break down! If you plant the Anubias in the substrate, make sure the rhizome (that's the "stem" part with the roots growing out of it) is exposed over the top of the gravel.

Considering you have next to no nutrients at all right now because your tank is new, liquid fertilizers may be a good idea, but Anubias grows rather well without nutrients. I recently put some Anubias in a new tank and a couple of the leaves started to turn yellow because of the lack of Nitrogen. You want to be careful with fertilizing Anubias because they are slow-growers; add too much nutrients and it'll all get sucked up by algae instead! However, in general if you have fish in your tank and you are feeding them, the Anubias can do fine with just a little, if any, extra fertilization.

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The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian.

so i was skeptical to buy som anubias at the lfs yesterday because the employee thought it had to be anchored to DW or lava rock.i wanted to research it then get some for my guppy feeder tank to suck up somenitrates. now i know what it is i needand plan to get some soon.ill just fishing line it to a peice of DW

Hi,
Anubis grow best when attached to driftwood. They also
grow well when attached to rocks such a scoria lava rock.

Anubis are slow growing plants. They do not absorb nitrate
that fast or that well. To take up nitrate, you should
plant plenty of fast growing stem plants.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

in that case what would be a low light fast growing plant, that would be fairly easy to take care of.it would be for my guppy feeder tank.

AB
It was a pleasure help you in chat the other night/your morning.

Anubias is a funny plant to grow well. I have found over the years (about 20) now that the larger leafed varieties prefer to grow on older DW by that I mean a DW that is breaking down and has a soft surface yet again it will grow on rock hard DW.

Anubias nana is totally different it will grow on DW and Red volcanic rock. It also will travel and grow in a open substrate. That does not mean get a piece and push it into the substrate if you do it might/will grow but not very well.
I have a few pieces in the corner of the 45lt tank it is basically 8x8ins and 8ins tall and still growing.
it is growing under a twin 18ins light unit I also use Seachem ferts every day.

All my Anubias is fixed with 15lb breaking strain nylon fishing line.

With the Platies and Gourami I think the tank might be a bit small once they start to breed. At the moment that is not a worry but remember what I said in chat, think twice and think again and by doing that you will have far less chance of making a costly mistake.
If you do that you will be keeping fish for many happy years, it is new fish keepers who want want and impulse buy never last because of their mistakes always leads to unhappy fish keeping.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW

very true keithgh, when i first started years back i was guilty of this.you need to envision the tank before you make your purchases

Thanks for all the replies guys!
I'm going to attach some driftwoof tommorow to the anubia, I bought the zebra danios as planned today and all are doing well. Slight heater problems that drive me crazy. But everything seems ok. Yellow leaves are from lack of nitrate? And nitrate comes from..ammonia? I'll do some more reseach on the nitrate cycle. How long does it take a 10 gallon tank with 4 zebra danios and a female betta to cycle? How many sebra danios should i use on a 30g? I was thinking of breeding paradise fish... so many options!

Thansk for all the supportive help!

not really sure, you kind of have to monitor it.ive heard 2 weeks and ive also heard 3-4. in my experiences it takes between 2-4 and generally is finished after the third.it should be about the same for all tank since the parts per million will be the same. the only difference is 10 ppm in a 10G is alot more than 10ppm in a 125G if that makes sense...like there is the same amount of the bacteria but less water volume so though the bacteria is the same in ppm it is more dense in the 10G.Maybe another member can explain it more clearly.

The time it takes to complete the cycle can vary greatly it depends on too many variations from a week to 3-4 weeks.
It can be pushed along by using a live bacteria additive like Seachem Stability at a double strength for the first week.

Not that far back I had to set up a 5ft from a 3ft and all I had was some of the water and a good filter full of good bacteria, lots of big fish, and a tank full of Anubias.
All I needed was a lot of luck and plenty of experience. I had the tank up and running immediatly I did not scape it or anything I just got it up and running and I never lost a fish in the process. The fish were fed very sparingly for the first 3-4 weeks. I also had the lights off for a few days. I also dosed the tank with Melafix plus two extra 4ins air stones.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW

Thanks guys, and keithgh is that fish in your photo yours? It's BEAUTIFUL! All is going well and if i need help i know i can count on you guys. thanks a bunch!

your very welcom AB

That fish is not mine it lives in a HUGE tank with many other fish from the Great Barrier Reef Aust
I have only caught one and It was very carefully released I believe that they are now a protected fish.

Barramundi rock cod
The barramundi rock cod Latin name is Cromileptes altivelis. Family Lutjanidae.They are generally uncommon on the Great Barrier Reef, but locally common is some areas. They don't grow much bigger than the 2 specimens we have on display in the coral atoll, about 700 mm total length. They are carnivores. Colour varies from black spots and white background, to same with bright yellow fin margins.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW

I attached the anubia to some driftwoof from the main tank . Its looking great and holding well. The roots of the anubia were ripping the little black container it comes in, a very healthy plant. The driftwood is also hude and has a interesting shape with various little caves and a easy surface to attach roots on. Also, the wallpaper in the back which i put on about 10 minutes ago is also looking great. All if going as planned... BWAHAHAHAHAH
Wow keitgh, i wonder if the big aquariums near you ahve the same fish as we do. The most popular one has thousands of fish and looks fantastic.

as did i today too AB. but about how ong will it take my anubias to root itself to the DW

Hi,
I don't know of any fast growing, low light plants.
Low light plants grow in shaded areas and tend to
take up their nutrients at a different rate than the
stem plants. Frequently their leaves are larger to make
use of the available light.

"CK," this is about the 4th time you have asked that
question about how long it will take the Anubis roots
to take to the driftwood, including a "stand alone"
thread in Technical Tinkering of all places.
(It was moved to Planted Aquaria.)

There are simply too many variables to state with any
certainty it will take 2 days, weeks, or even months.
It depends upon the health of the plant, the quality
of the light, the temperature of the tank, the availability
of nutrients, and the behavior of the fish in the tank
with it, just to name a few factors.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Plants can use nitrates from the nitrogen cycle. Yellow leaves can result from a lack of nitrogen. Yellowing of leaves is a pretty general symptom, so if you see yellow leaves you should check this guide, which will help pin it down:

http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_nutrient.htm

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The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian.

well i asked the question because no one replied to it. if it cant for sure be determine then why not say that, rather than not answering. people on this site get a bit touchy if a question is asked more than once.