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I have some new plants coming tomorrow from AZ Gardens

See Plant List Here

What is the bare minimum depth I should have for the plants shown in the list? I know the ozelot will probably require the most.

Also, I know newly bought plants need to be left alone after planting so they can establish. However, I know that I need to change my substrate in the coming weeks. It could be 3-4 weeks. How will this affect them? I probably should have waited until after I changed over to Eco-Complete, but I didn't have hardly any plants left and wanted to get some now.

Last edited by Cory_Di at 27-Mar-2005 09:56

Hi,
In general, the substrate in planted tanks is about
3 inches in depth.

As to planting them, and waiting a week or two and then
uprooting them, you can probably expect the crypts to
have a meltdown. When this happens, remove the dead/dying
leaves, and keep the firm part of the plant. It should
survive but will take a while to recover, they are slow
growing, low light plants for the most part.

As to why "you know you have to change the substrate"
Why is this? Granted eco-complete, or flourite, or others
are better in the long run than regular gravel, I see
absolutely no reason for the change in the immediate
future. Personally, I would plant the plants in your
current tank, and enjoy them. Perhaps in the Fall, you
might change the tank as a Fall project. Inbetween, you
will have had the time to appreciate the plants, decide
if the initial planting arrangement is what you wanted,
and know which plants are going thrive and which need
extra care.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

It's my habros, FRANK. They are in a bare 10 gallon tank until I get the substrate changed. They were rubbing themselves and on Flourite, that is rough. I can't seem to get to the bottom of the "itch". I've tried antiparasitics (several), there is nothing but a conditioner in there and the pH is stable and no nitrites - all itchers. If they must rub, I would rather it be on something less abrasive.

Cory_Di,

I've found that 3" is almost not enough and is most definitely the bare minimum. 4" is much better, especially for swords and other large plants. As for the "itchers" use a 2.5" of Flourite, then cover it with 1 or 1.5" of a smooth regular type gravel. It works great for my plants, though I did it for financial reasons.

Not to disagree with Frank, because his idea would work, but I think that a nutritious base is worth the shock that an extra move will cause. I have moved my plants plenty of times(for asthetic reasons, and because I move too) and even the new ones will eventually catch up if the conditions are good.

matt

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

The problem with keeping smooth gravel on top and flourite on the bottom is that eventually it will mix in much of the tank. The entire tank will not be covered with plants and I like to go right to the glass with my gravel vac in those areas (without plants). I have found that hydrogen sulfide can build quickly in thick gravel beds that aren't deep vac'd, not to mention anaerobic bacteria. At least with a UGF, water is being pulled through the gravel, keeping it areated. But, without a UGF, pockets of gravel can stagnate giving way to anaerobic bacteria and make the fish sick (in particular, bottom feeders).

What I'm going to do is add gravel to portions and make mounds where I need it thicker. I may save the rebuilding project for summer. There's a slim chance I could still move this summer and if I do, I wouldn't want to redo it twice.

Di,

You will need 3 to 4 inches for the ozelot. It is a nice small sword, no more than 10 inches in heights but will build a good root system. The crypts will do well with 2 to 3 inches. The dwarf sags can be done with two inches while anubias and riccia need no substrate.

You will have a problem with the sword and crypts invading your UGF openings... extensive root systems...

__________
"To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research."
researched from Steven Wright

I think a deep gravel bed can become much more trouble than it's worth. My deepest gravel (flourite) is not much more than 2", and I even think that's a little too deep. Once roots grow in, it becomes very hard to vac all the way to the glass.

I also disagree that Swords, even small ones, require 4" of substrate. I have a 29 gallon tank that contains two Amazon Swords in 1" of gravel/crushed coral. They have literally filled the tank, they're so big. And they're less than a year old.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v245/SSanchez/tanks.jpg

It's hard to see into the tank, and that's the point. I wouldn't want them any larger. One of them really needs to come out...

No UGF in the 20 long, Bob. I have UGF's in the tiny betta tanks (2.5 and 3.0 gallons). I plan on just putting some anubias nana petite and some crypt willisii in them. The bulk of the plants and the ozelot is going into my 20 long.

Anaerobic spots in a deep (4" ) substrate are limited by root growth in well planted tanks. I read that in one of my plant books...I'll get back with the name of it later.

Last edited by mattyboombatty at 29-Mar-2005 14:20

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Possibly Diana Walstad's book - Ecology of the Planted Aquarium? Or Peter Hiscock's book.

However, I do know that anaerobic pockets will kill plant roots or plants would avoid those pockets.

Yeah, it was Peter Hiscock's book. He did write that the anaerobic spots would kill roots, but where the roots are already established, no anarobic spots would form. I think that's right anyways, kinda going off the top of the head.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Well, I added some smooth pea gravel even though I'm planning on breaking it down in another month or two to swap in Eco-complete. I want to let the plants settle and boosted before I move them. I don't even have them in any kind of real design. As late as they got here, I had to just stuff them in. So, that is where they will stay for a while.