FishProfiles.com Message Forums |
faq | etiquette | register | my account | search | mailbox |
Treating Ich In A Planted Tank | |
fishfool35 Fingerling Posts: 46 Votes: 1 Registered: 23-Aug-2004 | I rearranged my planted tank recently, stirring up the substrate quite a bit and moving all the hardscape. Its been about 10 days and now a couple of my fish seem to have ich...I assume the rearrangment may have stressed some of the fish and weakened them??? It doesn't say on the bottle of my ich treatment if it can be used on planted tanks; Its a formalin/malachite green combo. I normally salt my quarantine tanks and raise the temp, but I know plants obviously don't respond well to high salt concentrations. Any suggestions would be appreciated. |
Posted 05-Apr-2009 15:28 | |
FRANK Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 | Hi, Unless you really stressed the fish in the process, a minor rearrangement of the plants would probably not have caused the Ich outbreak. Pulling up a couple of plants and replanting them should be no big deal. Pulling everything and replanting them with the fish in the tank, is a big deal and could tip the balance in favor of high stress and an Ich outbreak. Not knowing the plants in your tank, You are right, I'd omit the use of salt in the treatment for Ich. As an aside, using salt to treat for Ich or as an Ich preventative went out in the latter part of last century. Salt, in freshwater causes the fish some stress, and in response to the stress, the fish's me so that it does not become dehydrated. As one of the changes due to the me the production of the mucus that coats its body. The thinking at that time was that with the increased mucus production that the parasite would have a more difficult time burrowing through that thicker, fresher, mucus coat to get at the actual fish itself and burrow its "head" into the fish. Actually, stressing the fish weakens its immune system making it open to some more aggressive infections and diseases, and can shorten its live span. Today's medications do the job most efficiently and the use of salt is no longer necessary or even recommended. Check the instructions on the medication, the amount of copper in it should not affect your plants. Do, remove any carbon (charcoal) from your filter. The carbon will adsorb the copper from the medication, effectively removing it from killing the parasite. Do, increase the temperature of the tank as the increased temperature will increase the speed of the life cycle of the parasite. This will cause the encysted parasite to "hatch" into the free swimming stage, where it is affected and killed by the formalin and copper in the water, faster and thus shortening the time needed for treatment. The only time the parasite is vulnerable is in that free swimming stage. The rest of the time it is either encysted or burrowed into the host. While I'm mentioning it, you don't say anything about how you actually did the "rearrangement" of the tank. If you are using Fluorite or one of the "plant soils" for substrate You undoubtedly made quite a mess inside the tank as the small clay particles were pulled up into the water column. Likewise, even in a tank with regular aquarium substrate, you can turn the tank opaque with detritus. Next time you are overhauling, you might want to partially drain the tank into a clean bucket, transfer the fish out of the tank into the bucket, do the deed and once done, fill the tank with new water, allow it to reach normal temperature, and then after the tank becomes clear again, float the fish in some plastic bags for temperature equalization, and then pour the fish and water through a net over a sink, and add the netted fish back into the rearranged tank. You might also think about owning, or renting a diatom filter. I've a 30G tank filled with a 3-4 inch thick Flourite only, substrate. When I get done you cannot see a half inch into the tank it is so cloudy with clay particles. Two to three hours with a diatom filter and the tank is crystal clear, and ready for the fish. If you are removing all the fish from the main tank into the QT tanks, then just turning up the temperature of the main tank will kill off the parasite in it while you treat the fish in the QT tanks. You won't need to medicate or treat the main tank. With no host for the parasite, the main tank will be free of the parasite in the time that it takes you to run the medication cycle in the QT tanks. Frank -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
Posted 05-Apr-2009 19:16 | |
keithgh *Ultimate Fish Guru* Posts: 6371 Kudos: 6918 Votes: 1542 Registered: 26-Apr-2003 | I agree with Frank about the alterations it is highly unlikely that the Ich started off that way. It is more likely to have come through your water supply. I have collect my water directly from a instant hot water system and store it for a week because of the Ich that is in my water supply. Salt is completely out because of the plants. You could use the medication at half strength if you are concerned. Also if you have scaleless fish make sure it is the correct medication for them. Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info Look here for my Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos Keith Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do. I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT? VOTE NOW VOTE NOW |
Posted 06-Apr-2009 03:28 |
Jump to: |
The views expressed on this page are the implied opinions of their respective authors.
Under no circumstances do the comments on this page represent the opinions of the staff of FishProfiles.com.
FishProfiles.com Forums, version 11.0
Mazeguy Smilies