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I know this has been covered a million times but I would like to increase my lighting as I currently have 1.2 wpg. I would also like to add CO2 to my tank so this is why I want to increase the lights. I currently am running 40 watts on my 32g tank and one is a Aqua-Glo and one is a Flora-glo (both made by Hagen and I am not too sure about the K's. But the Aqua Glo has more of a blueish tint and the Flora-glo has more of a redish tint to it. I like the Aquaglo as it brings out the colours in the fish a lot. So now my problem is trying to add more light. I would probably have to get a new canopy which would be a pain. Any recommendations to DIY projects or stuff like that would help . Thanks in advance...

Eric

Hi,
Actually you can increase the lights to 2 wpg and not "need"
CO2 injection. Some folks use 3wpg w/o CO2 injection.

The thing is, if you use high light demand plants, and the
tank has 3wpg then you should be successful. A blend of
plants that fall in the low, medium, and high demand
categories will work out just fine in that tank... Provided
that you take care in the arrangement. Plants that need
the high light should be out front, directly under the
light. Low light demand plants should be off to the sides
out from directly under the light, and shaded by larger
plants or floating plants. Medium light plants could form
the backdrop, again out from being directly under the light.

The idea with the injection of carbon, is nearly like adding
"nitro" to the gas in your car. Suddenly it is "super
charged" and goes like heck. Same way with plants.
Plants absolutely HAVE to have Carbon for growth and life.
However, in most tanks, they have to "work" for it. They
have to break down organic compounds, tear the bonds apart,
to get at the Carbon. That takes energy. When we add CO2
to the tank, suddenly the plants no longer have to expend
that energy to break up the organic chemical bonds. Instead,
they easily separate the Carbon from the O2 and the energy
goes elsewhere - into growth for instance.

You can have a beautiful tank without CO2, or you can
have a spectacular tank with it.


Frank


Last edited by FRANK at 26-Aug-2005 21:19

-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Very good info Frank. It takes me back to last years science class. We learned all of this . For me I think it would be harder to change the lights... I could easily add carbon but it would be pointless as I have low lighting. But too change the lights I would have to get rid of my canopy which is really nice , so what do you recommend? And could someone explain the different type of fluorescent bulbs? I know theres the normal ones which are also called NO and then theres compact and VHO? I am a bit confused.



Last edited by ericm at 26-Aug-2005 22:09

Hi,
Well I guess the real outcome depends upon how attached you
are to the present aquarium light. If you were handy, then
you could strip out the innards and retrofit a different
type of light.

There are several types as you have guessed.
The "normal" flourscent tube that we are all familiar with
come different sizes and lengths and wattages as well as
uses (reading, lighting, and plant growing).

The standard tube carries a "T" number. This refers to the
diameter of the bulb. T-5, T-8, and T-12 are the normal
three and range from 5/8 inch to 1 1/2 inch in diameter.
These are available in what is called warm, or cool white
for reading, Daylight or Sunlight for lighting, and
terms such as "growlux" for plants.
Actually the best, and also (thankfully) the least
expensive, are those labeled DAYLIGHT or SUNLIGHT.
These are rated at 6700K and give off the harsh light
associated with the noon day sun. They also give the best
color rendering of the tank. That is, the greens look green
and the reds are red - not washed out.

Flourscents are also made with special phosphors and gas,
that require a higher voltage to operate, and consequently
out out more light than the normal tube. These are called
Very High Output (VHO) lights. They are more expensive,
require special ballasts, and run hotter requiring
special end caps (connections).
Also, because they are driven harder they should be
changed more frequently.

Flourscents also come "packed tighter." These are called
Compact Flourscents. They take a flourscent tube and bend
it into a "U" shape, or twist it around in a screw shape.
This takes the power rating of the bulb and compresses it
into half the length of a standard tube. CFS come
in all sizes (lengths) but are generally about 22 - 24
inches in length. They require a special socket as the
pin connections are four pins at one end of the tube
and the four pins are either arranged in a straight line
or in the shape of a square. Because the bulbs are folded
back on themselves, they require a fan for cooling.
(I have a hood on my 30G tank that has two 65 watt CFs in
it and uses a 3 inch, computer style, 115VAC, muffin fan
for cooling.)
They also make, as I mentioned, a screw in CF that replaces
the standard incandescent light. It also comes in the
warm or cool as well as the daylight or sunlight types.
These are the very best for small aquariums that come with
a hood that holds incandescent bulbs.

There are also metal Halide lights (MH) and others but these
are not normally used on freshwater tanks.

If you look at the Big Al's or drsfostersmith catalogs, you
will see large sections on lights and lighting including
retro fit kits to switch from one tube to many, or from one
type of light to another.

Hope this helps...
Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Thanks for the helpful reply... I am not sure I would like to replace the whole canopy just yet. So I was thinking if there was anyway to expand the sockets out a bit more so I could get 30 inch bulbs instead of the 24 inch I have now. The only problem would be my tank is 31.5 inches long which I dont think would leave enough room for the sockets and the 30 inch bulb .

Edit: I took another look and it looks like I could do it. It would just be a matter of moving the sockets over which I am not sure if I could do. It would bring me up to 1.5 wpg instead of 1.2 which I dont think it is worth it , but the lights would cover my whole tank.

Last edited by ericm at 29-Aug-2005 10:15