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  L# Water - Condensation inside of HEATER: What To Do ?
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SubscribeWater - Condensation inside of HEATER: What To Do ?
livebait
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I currently have an EBO JAGER 200W TS heater which I bought NEW and has been running flawlessly in my 60 gallon for about 7 months now.

While doing routine maintenance today, I noticed there is condensation (small water droplets) inside the heater located around the indicator-light, thermostat assembly (top portion of the heater). Is this heater made with dual layers of glass tubing?

Is this cause for alarm? Should I be worried? Do I need a new heater? Or is this normal...nothing to worry about?





Last edited by livebait at 09-Feb-2005 19:50
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:39Profile AIM PM Edit Report 
Hooben
 
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Big Fish
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While I am definitely not an expert, I have had instances when heaters have done the same to me. The times that this has happened it was due to water leaking into the heater through the seals where the glass meets the plastic top. Soon after the droplets appear, the heating element gets wet and the heater shorts out...Stops working. I am not saying that this will happen to you, but you might think about looking for good heater prices in the meantime. Better safe than sorry.
Make sure your next heater is submersible, as they tend to fair better over time.

________________________________________
The calming qualities of a good aquarium are irrefutable
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:39Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
livebait
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]

I was under the impression that the heater I have is submersible. It has a Min. water line, but NO max. water line.

Anyone have a link to Ebo Jager's website/homepage for warranty info?





Last edited by livebait at 10-Feb-2005 03:40
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:39Profile AIM PM Edit Delete Report 
FRANK
 
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Hi,
From your comment, it sounds like you have been using
it as a submersible heater. It is not.

This is what I copied off their ads for their heaters:

Specifications:
This heater is not completely submersible.

Size:
10" long

Warranty:
Product is warranted for 1 Year against defects in material and workmanship.

Agrueably, you have voided the warranty but taking it back
and not saying anything, rather than something, is always
a possibility. You may get a new one out of it.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:39Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
livebait
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Thanks for the replies.

Nowhere on the box or original instructions it came with DOES IT SAY that ITS NOT FULLY SUBMERSIBLE. If this particular model WASN'T Fully Submersible why couldn't they print that somewhere on the box or instructions? At least take some of the guess work out of it.
Sorry to rant.]

The only thing printed on the box is "Waterproof", then below that "WITH LOW WATER LEVEL PROTECTOR."

Well, either way I'm out $30 as I don't believe I'll be able to find the receipt.

I noticed their warranty address is located in El Segundo, CA. Not too far from where I am. I might drive down there and see what they can do for me.
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:39Profile AIM PM Edit Delete Report 
bigfish in a little pond
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Small Fry
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I would definetly go to the adress, and see what they can do for you, if they arent able to replace your heater, you could always check on line for better prices on your replacement heater. One of the best online supply store is www.bigalsonline.com
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:39Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
livebait
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Thanks for the response bigfish.

I've ordered from Big Als before. They have exellent prices. I'm just paranoid with having anything shipped to me thats made of glass... due to prior bad experiences.

On another note... I wanted to see if there were others that also experienced condensation inside their EJ heaters. One response I found was:

"...What I've been told is that the heaters are assembled in more humid climates, or even non-humid areas, and the ceramic in there holds a certain amount of moisture. Heating it up drives it out. Both my heaters have condensation and it used to bother me, but I'm getting used to it. I wish they could remove the moisture before they sealed them though."

Is there any relevance to this owner's claim???

EDIT:

For those Ebo Jager owners that actually have a MAX. water line, could you post a pic or a link to a pic of one so I can get an idea of how far to submerse my heater. Again, mine only has a MIN. water line.


Last edited by livebait at 10-Feb-2005 20:38
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:39Profile AIM PM Edit Delete Report 
FRANK
 
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Hi,
The comments about condensation being normal within a
heater is true. Where ever they are assembled, they all
have moisture in some degree, in the ceramic and in the
air that becomes trapped when the top is sealed onto the
glass. This is normal, and you can see it with slight
almost steam like condensation on the glass generally
around the area of the contacts in the center area of
the glass housing.

Frank



-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:39Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
livebait
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Thanks for the response Frank. Greatly appreciated.

Would the best course of action be to replace the heater?

Are there any other heater owners who've had condensation inside their heaters without having any ill effects care to comment?



Last edited by livebait at 12-Feb-2005 15:44
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:39Profile AIM PM Edit Delete Report 
FRANK
 
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Hi,
As I "hinted" in my earlier post, a small amount of
moisture in a heater is normal. They are not assembled
in a climate controled environment, nor in a vacuum.

Let's review how a heater works. There is a set of
bimetalic contacts with a tapered plastic screw between
them. The contacts are two thin strips of dissimiliar
metals. As the metal heats because each strip is two
metals fused to each other, they expand at different
rates, and the result is that they bend in one direction.
They are arranged so that as they each bend, they bend
towards each other finally touching. When they touch
they complete the circuit to the heating element which is
made of nichrome wire. The wire heats up (sometimes red
hot) and the heat is transfered to the aquarium. When the
preset temperature is reached the strips open and the
current stops flowing.
Each time the contacts open and the current stops, there
is a small arc. This arc, or spark, transfers a tiny
bit of metal from one contact to the other causing a pit
to develop on one of the contacts, and a slight build up
of metal on the other. Over time, this pitting will ruin
the contacts and the heater will cease to work correctly.
To "fix" this you can take the heater apart, (UNPLUG IT)
and use an emery board to polish (sand) the contacts
(smooth them off) and then reassemble the heater.
When you do this you will be replacing the air within
the heater assembly with the current humidity air that
you work in. For instance, if you live in one of the
south eastern states and do this in the summer, chances
are you will be putting 100% humidity air into the heater.
It is that humidity (moisture) that you see developing
on the inside of the heater.

The moisture that you see agravates the oxidation of the
contacts as they open and arc. It also oxidizes the
connections within the heater. Eventually they will become
so bad that the heater will not work.

However, the word "eventually" means over several years.
Not really all that soon, and as long as the heater works,
and holds the tank at the preset temperature, there is
really no reason to junk it and replace it.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:39Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
curvicep
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Fingerling
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more reassurance, but my hagen submersible also has condesation inside the tube, I've had it running for months like this with no problems.
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:39Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
ontariobetta
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Most of my heater have it to, and they are submersible. I've never had any probs

ashley
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