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victimizati0n![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Banned Posts: 1217 Kudos: 1105 Votes: 31 Registered: 29-Apr-2004 ![]() | Hey guys. Im not sure what the cost per KW hour is (I cant find it on their website) But on average, how much would it cost to run a 35W flourescent light (acually 1 15W and 1 17W) for 12 hours a day? And will flourescent lights heat up the water? Also, about how mugh would a bio-wheel filter powering a 10g tank cost per month? |
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poisonwaffle![]() ![]() Mega Fish Posts: 1397 Kudos: 591 Registered: 11-Feb-2003 ![]() ![]() | 0.35kw/h x 12 (hours per day) x price It should run you 'bout $10 a year or so... Flourescent lights should heat the water up a little, but not too much (unless it's a big light on a small tank). For the filter, you'd have to apply the same formula as above. I think somebody worked it out a while back, and a decent sized filter costs somewhere around $4-5 a year to run...but I' not positive... Last edited by Pancake at 14-Nov-2004 21:53 |
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victimizati0n![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Banned Posts: 1217 Kudos: 1105 Votes: 31 Registered: 29-Apr-2004 ![]() | sweet, thanks. |
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steven keyes![]() Hobbyist Posts: 62 Kudos: 54 Votes: 1 Registered: 05-Oct-2004 ![]() | actually a 35 watt flourescent light only uses just under 7 watts of elec. so its much less than that. as i am a master electrician i know this to be fact. |
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FRANK![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hi, This information may help to determine your annual expenses. As an example these are the specification for a ballast. Howard Magnetic Rapid Start Ballast Ignites One F34T12, FB34T12, F40T12/ES, FB40T12, or F40T12 Lamp of 120 Voltage. General Information Desc Product Number M1/40RS-120 Ordering Code M1/40RS-120 Number of Lamps 1 Lamp Watts 40 Input Watts 53 Input Volts 120 Ballast Factor 88-95% Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) 12% Power Factor 0.98 Length (in) 9.36 Width (in) 2.34 Height (in) 1.54 Additional Information Terms to Remember About Electronic Ballasts Ballast Heat: Electronic ballasts are designed to operate in ambient temperatures less than 105 degrees F. The inside or core temperature of the ballast is not to exceed 75 degrees C. Magnetic ballasts have a maximum core temperature of 90 degrees C. It is important to remember that electronic ballasts are more heat sensitive than magnetic ballasts as indicated by the lower maximum core temperature. Thermal Cycle: If the ballast inside or core temperature rises above the maximum, (75 degrees C), then the ballast will activate a thermal cutoff device to prevent permanent damage. This excessive heat can be due to the way the ballast is mounted in the fixture, or conditions in the area where the ballast is in use. If the conditions causing excessive heat are not corrected the ballast will operate until overheated and then shut itself off until cool. The ballast will then automatically repeat this cycle over and over. This is known as thermal cycling. If a ballast is left in this condition for an extended period of time the excessive heat will cause the ballast to fail. Cold Temperature: Colder ambient temperatures make fluorescent lamps harder to start. Cold temperatures do not effect ballast performance. The problem of starting a fluorescent lamp in cold temperature relates strictly to the particular characteristics of the lamp in use. Reducing the amount of mercury in a fluorescent lamp makes a lamp harder to start in cold temperatures. Energy Saver or reduced wattage lamps contain less mercury. Energy Saver or reduced wattage lamps generally require 60 degrees F for reliable starting regardless of which ballast is used. Shunted Sockets: With the new T8 lamps we now have a bi-pin lamp that can be instant or rapid started. Shunted sockets connect the two pins on one lamp end together to prevent damage to the filament when using an instant start ballast. This eliminates the need to install wire jumpers, and makes for easier wiring of the fixture. It is important to remember that shunted sockets are for use with instant start ballasts only. Operating a rapid start ballast on a fixture with shunted sockets will damage the rapid start ballast. Ballast Factor: This is the ratio of the light output of an ANSI standard reactor (ballast) to the light ouput of the ballast being rated for ballast factor. In simpler terms, simply multiply the Ballast Factor times the rated lumens of the lamp to get the light output of the lamp/ballast combination. Ballast Efficacy Factor: Measure of relative light delivered per watt consumed by a specific lamp/ballast combination. Crest Factor: This is the ratio of the peak starting current to the operating current of a ballast. Generally ballasts are designed to have a crest factor less than 1.7 to insure normal lamp life. Using a lamp listed on the ballast label insures that the lamp/ballast combination have been tested and will not cause excessive crest factor when started. OCV: Open Circuit Voltage. This is the high voltage supplied by the balllast to the lamp at start up. This voltage is required to initiate the arc in the lamp. After the lamp arc is established and current begins to flow, the voltage across the lamp will gradually lower as the lamp heats up. The voltage will stabilize at the Arc Voltage or Operating Voltage of the lamp. Input Watts: This is the combined power used by the lamp/ballast combination. Power Factor: This is a measure of the Actual Power divided by the Apparent Power. Also expressed as a percentage, a high power factor ballast has above 90 percent Power Factor. The lower the power factor, the higher the current per watt required to operate the device. The total input power remains the same. An advantage of High Power Factor is that more devices can be used on the same size branch circuit if they have a high power factor. Harmonic Distortion: Distortion of the supply line current (or voltage) created by non-linear loads including but not limited to all types of arc discharge lighting. Standard Electromagnetic Ballast: Basic autotransformer technology utilizing the least cost (high core loss) materials (iron and aluminum). Energy Saving Electromagnetic Ballast: Functionally the same as a standard ballast but utilizing premium (low core loss) materials (steel and copper). With this data and deffinitions, you should be able to compute your KWH and costs per year. Frank ![]() -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
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openwater![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Fish Addict Posts: 565 Kudos: 551 Votes: 0 Registered: 24-Jul-2004 ![]() ![]() | Steven, I'm just wondering about the 7 watts acutual compared to the 35 watts listed on the bulb. How did you come to the answer of 7? Did you use a wattmeter or amp and watt meters and the formula p= v x i. I think I'll use my multi-meter and check my 38watt later. Just curious.....................openwater |
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So_Very_Sneaky![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Ultimate Fish Guru Posts: 3238 Kudos: 2272 Votes: 201 Registered: 10-Mar-2004 ![]() ![]() | The cost of a tank is really simple to figure out: The lights (flourescent or compacts)- very little energy consumption. The filters- more energy but still very little. The Heaters- the buck stops here- these are what cost you when running a tank. The one 100watt heater I have on my 25g tank uses more energy that both the filters I have on my 90g, and add in the 50watt heater on my 10g, and youve outdone all the filters in power consumption, not to mention the 2 200 watt heaters on my 90g. I also must mention at .035 per kw, you guys sure pay a lot for power. Here in BC we pay .016 per kw. Ive heard its even more in the prairies provinces though. My power bill after adding the 25g and 10g tank, on equalized payments, upped my payment by .25 cents a month, or $3.00 a year. Im sure with the 90 thats around 6-7, but power is included in my rent so Im not sure right now. Come Play Yahtzee With Me! http://games.atari.com Http://www.myleague.com/yahtgames |
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steven keyes![]() Hobbyist Posts: 62 Kudos: 54 Votes: 1 Registered: 05-Oct-2004 ![]() | yes open water i did do a watt meter check to prove this before ive been an elec. for over 25 years working in power plants chemical plants nuclear plants ect. unless you use a high output or comminly refered to as cold wheather ballast. 100 watt lamps allways use around 22 watts the only thing other than voltage drop caused by running to far with to small of wire size is the temp. and that only changes it like 1 watt either way. I could get more technical but it would be hard to understand for you all. |
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steven keyes![]() Hobbyist Posts: 62 Kudos: 54 Votes: 1 Registered: 05-Oct-2004 ![]() | i forgot to tell you openwater if you are doing a check with a wattmeter or a amp meter BE SURE you dont put the meter around both wires you will not only get a false reading you will mess up your meter it will not read correctly any more. ive seen many apprentices do this . a good amp probe runs 300 bucks. wouldnt want you to fry a good meter. put it on the un grounded conductor or hot wire. on your lamp cord the side without the ribs on it is the hot.one side of the cord is smoth the other has ridges,smooth side is hot. |
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