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How long does it usually take for ich to go away? I have been treating my tank for 9 days now and there is still ich on my fish. I have been using Kordon Ich Attack because I have cories and it is all natural. I am afraid the effects of using the meds so long is stressing my fish even more than the ich is. I have lost 1 cory and 2 ottos this weekend and don't want to lose any more fish. Is there anything else I can do besides keep treating meds and waiting? I am getting so frustrated. Every morning I wake up hoping that none of my fish are dead.

*Kristin*

Hi There,
the Ich Lifecycle is approximately 12-14 days.
So Any treatment should surely continue for at least 12 days, and preferable beyond the life cycle.
Last Time I had ICH I treated with Kent Marine RX-P (best ich medicine around in my opinion),
for the following: 1 dose evry 2nd day for 13 doses total.
This is 26 days of treatment, and covers the full lifecycle of ich from egg to adult, egg to adult.
Best to treat to ensure any eggs that hatch (not affected by medications), have a chance to hatch and be exposed to the medication and killed. This prevents a relapse of the ICH at a later time.


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What temp have you got the tank set at? Raising the temp to 86F will help speed up the lifecycle of ich. Do it slowly though, and make sure your fish do not show any signs of distress as it is raised.

---

Before you criticize someone walk a mile in their shoes. That way you're a mile away and you have their shoes.

The temp now is only 80. I had it at about 83 but I got a new light fixture which produced more heat than the old on so I adjusted the heater lower. I will try to get some of the Kent Marine RX-P. I looked at 2 different pet stores when I got the Ich Attack stuff but couldn't find it. Is it safe for cories and yoyo's? Thanks for the help..I've been really stressed about school lately and the things going crazy in my tank aren't helping. :%)

It also says for saltwater external parasites...so its ok to use in fw?

Last edited by GirlieGirl8519 at 21-Nov-2005 21:34

*Kristin*

Here is some info about Ich.

You certainly will have to turn up the heat, turn off the light and keep the treatment for at least 14 days after you have seen the last white spot.

Turning off the light will help to reduce the stress.


White-spot” Parasite, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

This disease is easy to recognise, as the skin of the infected fish becomes covered with white spots, each the size of a pinhead. Each spot represents the site of one, or sometimes two, parasites. All parts of the body gills, may be attacked.

The causative agent is named Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is a spherical and large by protozoan standards, measuring up to 1mm in diameter. Short, hair-like processes known as cilia are spread densely over the surface. A horseshoe-shape nucleus is also present which is clearly visible under the microscope.

By the means of the cilia the parasite rotates vigorously and burrows into the surface layer (epidermis) of its host. It feeds on skin cells and surface debris. The burrowing action causes a local irritation and the epidermis grows across the parasite to enclose it, thus forming a “White Spot”

Reproduction occurs away from the host. After maturing in the skin, which takes a few days to three weeks, depending on the temperature, the parasite bores out, swims away and comes to rest on a submerged object such as a stone, or plant. Here it forms a jelly-like cyst within which a series of rapid cell divisions take place. In a few hours, several hundred daughter cells or swarmers, are produced, which break out of the cyst to find a new host. Alighting on the skin, they burrow in to recommence the life cycle. If they fail to find a host within three to four days, they perish.

Symptoms
If the protozoan is introduced into a tank containing healthy fish, little harm may occur, other than a fleeting infection with a few parasites. If however, the fishes are already weakened for some other reason, e.g. lack of oxygen, the parasite will quickly cover the whole body surface, causing irritation and opening up wounds for secondary infections. The host mobility may become affected. In sever cases, death may result.

Prevention
If white-spot appears in an otherwise healthy tank, the parasite “must” have been introduced either as an adult on a newly acquired fish, or as the cyst form on, for example new stones, a plant or even added water. The only certain method of prevention, is to quarantine all new stock, including stones, plants etc; preferably in water at a temperature of 77F. Allow one week’s quarantine.

Treatments
There are too many treatments today to recommend any specific one. Many can be bought easily at aquarium outlets.


Several very interesting points to think about.

Very easy to recognise.
Its reproduction cycle.
No host they will die.
If introduced into a healthy tank little harm may occur.
Pay attention to all tank details.
Weakened fish, and lack of oxygen can/may and will cause sever deaths. All this is usually caused by poor tank maintenance and/or incorrect and faulty equipment.
Prevention is the best cure
A Parasite “must” be introduced into the tank.

This information was collected from Fresh Water Tropical Fish
White-spot” Parasite, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

This disease is easy to recognise, as the skin of the infected fish becomes covered with white spots, each the size of a pinhead. Each spot represents the site of one, or sometimes two, parasites. All parts of the body gills, may be attacked.

The causative agent is named Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is a spherical and large by protozoan standards, measuring up to 1mm in diameter. Short, hair-like processes known as cilia are spread densely over the surface. A horseshoe-shape nucleus is also present which is clearly visible under the microscope.

By the means of the cilia the parasite rotates vigorously and burrows into the surface layer (epidermis) of its host. It feeds on skin cells and surface debris. The burrowing action causes a local irritation and the epidermis grows across the parasite to enclose it, thus forming a “White Spot”

Reproduction occurs away from the host. After maturing in the skin, which takes a few days to three weeks, depending on the temperature, the parasite bores out, swims away and comes to rest on a submerged object such as a stone, or plant. Here it forms a jelly-like cyst within which a series of rapid cell divisions take place. In a few hours, several hundred daughter cells or swarmers, are produced, which break out of the cyst to find a new host. Alighting on the skin, they burrow in to recommence the life cycle. If they fail to find a host within three to four days, they perish.

Symptoms
If the protozoan is introduced into a tank containing healthy fish, little harm may occur, other than a fleeting infection with a few parasites. If however, the fishes are already weakened for some other reason, e.g. lack of oxygen, the parasite will quickly cover the whole body surface, causing irritation and opening up wounds for secondary infections. The host mobility may become affected. In sever cases, death may result.

Prevention
If white-spot appears in an otherwise healthy tank, the parasite “must” have been introduced either as an adult on a newly acquired fish, or as the cyst form on, for example new stones, a plant or even added water. The only certain method of prevention, is to quarantine all new stock, including stones, plants etc; preferably in water at a temperature of 77F. Allow one week’s quarantine.

Treatments
There are too many treatments today to recommend any specific one. Many can be bought easily at aquarium outlets.


Several very interesting points to think about.

Very easy to recognise.
Its reproduction cycle.
No host they will die.
If introduced into a healthy tank little harm may occur.
Pay attention to all tank details.
Weakened fish, and lack of oxygen can/may and will cause sever deaths. All this is usually caused by poor tank maintenance and/or incorrect and faulty equipment.
Prevention is the best cure
A Parasite “must” be introduced into the tank.

This information was collected from Fresh Water Tropical Fish

Have a look in [link=My Profile]http://
www.fishprofiles.com/interactive/forums/profile.asp?userid=6741" style="COLOR: #00FF00[/link] for my tank info

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Keith

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Medication for White Spot has to be continued for a minimum of 72 hours (and usually longer) after the last of the cysts have disappeared from the fish.

This is to make sure that all of the free-swimming larval forms of the parasite (the only stage in the life cycle that is vulnerable to medication) are killed off. Raising the temperature speeds up the metabolic rate of the parasites and releases the 'swarmer' larvae quicker, but even so, you're still looking at 72 hours as a minimum after the disappearance of all cysts. In my Panda Fun Palace™, any outbreak of White Spot would result in 21 days of medication, because Panda Corys prefer cooler temperatures (around 22°C) and at that temperature, the larvae can take a week or more to appear from the fallen cysts. Plus, with the Pandas, I can't raise the temp to more than 26°C because the heat shock would kill them, so if I ever need to treat for White Spot in a Panda aquarium, I'm looking at 21 days' medicating. If you have fishes that can stand higher temperatures, this will speed up the life cycle and give the medication a chance to kill all the swarming larvae, but it can be a bit of a balancing act.

For example, if you have Labyrinth fishes on their own in an aquarium, because they can breathe atmospheric air, it's safe to take them to 30°C when medicating them, and in the case of some species that like warm water such as Chocolate Gouramies, raising the temperature to 35°C is an option. Doing that to quite a few other fishes that CAN'T breathe atmospheric air, though, adds to the stress. A nice balancing act that you tend to get right with experience.

However, take note of this: Lemon Tetras are supposed to have an upper temperature limit of around 28°C. Mine survived quite happily during a heatwave when the ambient air temperature in the house hit 36°C, and the water climbed to 32°C. But they were healthy Lemons, not afflicted by disease. Whether Lemons affected by a heavy White Spot infestation would survive the same temperature hike is a moot point. However, if you have excellent filtration and aeration, you could get away with elevated temperatures for several of the hardier 'mainstream' fish species.

Oh, and an EXCELLENT medication for dealing with White Spot, that I've tried and tested and which has worked for me, is Protozin. It's also safe with Panda Corys (notorious for being fussy and delicate where such matters are concerned), so I suspect you won't have any worries with yur fishes if you use it.


Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

Yes, RX-P is safe for all fish, both freshwater and saltwater and has been tested on discus fry, scaleless fish, and most invertebrates.
I have used it successfully to treat ich on my polka dot loach, which got a recurring bout of it when I first got the little gal 3 years ago.
Worked wonders.


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I tried ich guard 2 for my tank last time I had a case of ich and it did not work worth a darn. I still lost ALL of my cardinals. I am going to use Coppersafe next time I have a case of ich. I have heard several good things about it. If anyone knows of anytihng better please let me know.


Christina

Please do NOT use coppersafe.
Several reasons why-
Copper, once in the tank, never comes out.
Copper is harmful to many types of fish,
including rainbow sharks and red tail sharks,
loaches of every kind, cory catfish, and plecos.
Coppersafe is a horrible, very unsafe product to use
with most fish. Once you have put it in the tank,
you will never be able to keep the above mentioned
fish safely in there. It adheres to plants, tank surfaces, gravel, decorations, heaters, everything.
Kent Marine RX-P is safe for all fish. So is
Kordons Rid ICH Plus.
I believe the Protozin that was mentioned is also safe
for all/most fish.


Last edited by So_Very_Sneaky at 28-Nov-2005 20:37

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The ich in my tank is gone now...but still treating for another week to make sure. Raising the temp helped so much. I raised the temp slowly to about 86 F over a couple days and then the spots started to disappear. I never could find the Kent RX-P at any of my LFS...I only went to a couple though. I could have ordered it online but it would have taken a week.
I used Ich Attack by Kordon because another Kordon ich product I looked at contained formalin and malachite green, it may have been the rid ich plus, not sure. I wanted my cories and yoyo's to be safe. I hope you take Sneaky's advice, Christina and don't use the Coppersafe. I really think raising the temp is the key...I'll do that if I ever have ich again (i hope I don't though ) Good luck to ya! :%)

*Kristin*

Sneaky,
I've had a completely different experience using Coppersafe. In fact it's the only ICH mediation I use. I have used Coppersafe at half strength in my tank with small tetras and shrimp and they seem to tolerate the medication fine and the ICH is always gone within 10 days.

My Scapes

Sometimes ich can persist longer than you might think, most treatments take at least 8 days and sometimes youre lucky to catch it first time. Sometimes it goes on two or three weeks even a month in a large community tank.You might be unlucky and have one of the more resistant strains. Dont give up until its gone.

Thats kinda why we always get a bit open eyed when someone says their ich meds are supposed to get rid of it in 2 days. It just doest happen, the life cycle of the infection is longer than that, and its temperature and conditions dependant to some degree, so even that can extend a to a bit longer.. Then you get the odd reinfestation, sometimes it can drag on a bit. as long as the meds are a decent make,and the dosages are accurate thats pretty much all you can do, well, other than change meds, but that has its risks too.


Last edited by longhairedgit at 29-Nov-2005 05:42

Last edited by longhairedgit at 29-Nov-2005 05:43