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Hey well I'm getting my 55gal tank set up for cichlids. I've got the sand and rocks in there. and now am adding my heater,canister filter,airpump. Yet I was wondering with the flow from the canister filter do I still need a airpump rated to 50 gal or would say a 40 gal one work? Also has anyone ever used Seachem "stability" when statring up your bio

Hi,
When you set up the aquarium, unless you are fixated on
the need for bubbles, you could easily do away with the
air pump and air stones. Most canister filters run the
return water through a "Spray Bar" which is a tube that
runs along the surface of the tank and has holes cut in it.
You have the option of setting the spray bar below the
surface of the tank water, at the surface, or above the
surface. The latter two choices will rile the water.
break the surface tension, and facilitate the exchange
of oxygen with the tank water. In other words, you won't
need the air pump and stones.

Sorry, I've never used any "starter" chemicals on any of
my tanks, so I can't help you with that one.
The only "conditioner" I use is jungle, "Start Right" to
remove chlorine and chloramine.

Frank



-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

O ok! So If I were to just want them for looks would it matter how big the pump is? This is my first canister filter so that info is good to know. It is a Rena XP2 rated to 75gal.

Hi,
If you just want the bubbles for looks then you will only
have to choose the correct pump for the air stone(s).
The best thing to do would be to purchase a pump you
deem reliable and large enough to handle what you want.
Then purchase a set of valves to spread the compressed air
stream from the pump into the various air stones, with one
extra output. Connect the pump to the gang of valves and
one air line from the valve to a stone. (3 stones =
3 airlines and one extra valve), put the air stones where
you want them and open the valves to the air stones, one at
a time. Then open the extra valve slowly to reduce the
amount of air going to all the stones at one time.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

If you want air bubbles it is totally up to you but what it will do is lift the fine sand particles and they could easily finish up in your filter especially the impeller and the impeller housing. If it is a good spray bar it should be able to adjust it to give you a good surface water movement far better than any air stone. To get a better water movement you would require several long ceramic air stones and a huge pump to drive them all.

I use Stability all the time it is a booster for the good bacteria but you will still have to cycle the tank with or with out fish.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
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Well I hooked my canister up lastnight and had a few questions as it is my first. The booklet that came with it says the inlet should be 4" above the substrate. Yet with what they gave me I'm either 3" or 7-8" which is best? Also with my outlet im using the bar and have it about 2" under the surface angled up to make ripple in the surface, is this a good position for that or should I use the other extension that puts it 6-7" under. And should the outlet valve be all the way open or just around half?
Now with the stability it says to do a dose everyday for 7 days in a new tank and you could add fish at anytime during this. Thats not true is it?

Hi,
The height above the substrate is a relative number.
If you had 3-4 inches of substrate (GRAVEL) in a planted
tank, then the intake would be at a different height than
if you have only one inch of sand. It's placement is sort
of up to you. Just be sure to wrap a piece of sponge around
it so it does not suck up any sand grains that either you
or your fish rile up.

The spray bar also can go where you want it. Many keep it
below the surface pointed up, others place it at the
surface and shoot the return water across the surface
frothing the water. Still others keep it above the water
shooting across it or down into it. In any case, be sure
that you have a piece of glass above the riles water and
bubbles to keep the water in the tank and out of the light
assembly. If it gets into the light assembly, it will
cause corrosion and the light will soon quit working.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

So in your opinion would it be best for the intake to be close to middle of tank or the bottom? Also what kinda sponge and were do you get them? I do have about 2" of sand

Take your inlet to your LFS and see what sponges they have that will fit your intake. Some solid sponges all you have to do is cut a slit into it and push the intake into the sponge. Also remember too wash it at every water change otherwise it could easily block up and put too much pressure on the filter.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW