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I was wondering if any one had a good ph controller for a good price. I've been wanting to setup a bottle system on my tank for a long time now(20long), but now that i got the regulator, it's forced me to get the rest. I'm looking at a 5-10 lb bottle and i was probbaly going to set the bottle up to multiple tanks in the future. When i move i'll beable to have bigger tanks; land lords here are hell. Do controllers monitor multiple tanks?? Getting a a whole other tank setup for another tank would be too expensive. Any info, or any help would be great.

The regulator thats coming in the mail in the Azoo 2 guage w/solenoid and needle valve.

_________________________________________
I'm the classic newb. I went out and bought the smallest tank and a fish at the same time. Now I'm kicking myself wondering how could I have been so stupid. But I'm hooked.

Hi,
I don't know of any controller that will handle several
tanks at once. The trick would be to run one normal,
low pressure line out, of the regulator. Then Y it off to
go to individual tanks, and place the on/off valve on
THE line feeding that specific tank. A controller for
each tank would then turn on/off the CO2 for that tank.

The more expensive controllers have several ports
(QRP, pH, etc.) but the "inexpensive" ones only have a
port for the pH probe and the port for the shut off valve.
They are small and would be ideal for your use.

Examples/prices:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=4493&N=2004+113762
or
http://www.thatpetplace.com/Products/KW/F55BA/Class/Aquarium+Controllers+ORP+CO2/T1/F55BA+0288+0013/EDP/36653/Itemdy00.aspx

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Each unit controls upper and lower ranges, cycling your equipment on or off accordingly to adjust pH or ORP readings.

So this controller has a port that the solenoid can plug into? because on the milwaukee one all it mentions is a light.

An LED alarm will also alert you to any problem levels

therefore negating the reason for purchasing the solenoid. I really should have done this research before hand, but i expected a bottle and regulator straight to the tank. Then when i started to do research i realized that too much Co2 could be a problem and the only way to make sure it was stable was a ph controller (which i obviously have no idea about)

_________________________________________
I'm the classic newb. I went out and bought the smallest tank and a fish at the same time. Now I'm kicking myself wondering how could I have been so stupid. But I'm hooked.

but i expected a bottle and regulator straight to the tank

You can still do that. That's what I did for a long time. You either have to let the C02 run 24/7 or manually turn the C02 off (in sequence with your lights, if you can).

Your solenoid will allow you to set the C02 up with a timer (in sequence with your lighting).

You don't need a pH controller - it is an added extra luxury gadget - but IMO they're nice to have. From what I understand, the pH controller itself does not turn the C02 off, but causes the solenoid to shut off once the target pH level has been reached.

So, the solenoid is still required. Unless, like mine, the solenoid/pH controller is a single combined unit. Most arent though, so just get yourself the separate controller.

Like Frank says though, I think each tank needs it's own controller. Not being a DIY, handyman type person, I can't see how it will work running multiple tanks, even if you do have a pH controller in each tank.

Frank - wouldn't the pH controller in one tank simply shut the solenoid down - meaning no C02 in any tank, regardless if one or more of the other tanks hasn't yet reached target pH? My head spins here & I can't figure that one out

EDIT:

Then Y it off to go to individual tanks, and place the on/off valve on THE line feeding that specific tank.

So, each line feeding each specific tank also would need a solenoid (on/off valve)? If so, I get it now.

Cheers
TW

Hi,
In my post above, I'd not noticed that his regulator came
with a solenoid. You could not, of course, use that
solenoid as turning it off would shut the CO2 off to all
the tanks down the line. My intent was that he run a low
pressure CO2 line to each tank and "Y" off that line to
a tank. The line to the tank would then have a solenoid
on it as would each of the branching lines. The system
would require a solenoid and controller for each tank
and in the end "could" be quite expensive.

Good catch.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Understand now. So, the saving would be the purchase of 1 gas bottle instead of multiples and 1 regulator, instead of multiples.

It might just be easier to give each tank it's own whole set-up.

Cheers
TW

Yeah but but multiple tank idea is definitly in the future not just because of the plaace i live but also for the pocket. Ok so i know you kinda said it but the controller doesn't actually shut off the Co2 (just the solenoid-> therefore the Co2 flow.
Ok so i guess in summary, since only 2 monitor/controllers where mentioned, i think i'm going to go with the cheaper Milwaukee since it and the pinpoint do the same thing.
http://www.automatedaquariums.com/mw_s122.htm
now is this a good deal? The one you posted had the Orp which in my case i don't think is needed (unless you say other wise). Now in most of the specs it mentions the led (and i assume the power to the solenoid) will go off if the ph is above the set number, but will it go off if it's below the set number? I'm more affraid about a pH crash then the ph going too high.

_________________________________________
I'm the classic newb. I went out and bought the smallest tank and a fish at the same time. Now I'm kicking myself wondering how could I have been so stupid. But I'm hooked.

now is this a good deal?

For an Aussie, that would be excellent. A unit here is about $250 plus for a cheapie unit. Wait for some of our US friends (Frank) to advise on prices in the US

but will it go off if it's below the set number?

That's how it works. C02 will always be trying to lower your pH. So the target you set on the controller, will be the lowest pH you want in your tank. The pH Controller will cause the solenoid (on/off valve) shut off the C02 supply. It will not allow the pH to go below that level. BTW, you will have to calibrate the probe of the controller (to keep it accurate) maybe once a month or so - but that is a simple task.

C02 won't raise your pH at all, it only ever lowers it.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
TW

This is all you need for multiple tanks. This can be run off one tank with one regulator. No controllers are needed, just control the volume of gas going to each tank with a steady, and independant bubble count. Good luck

---

Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Hi,
You are right Matty, and that is how I would go, but the
question revolved around the use of controllers and how to
manage several tanks off the same bottle of gas.

Once you got that manifold system adjusted (fine tunned)
it would be fine needing only occasional adjustments
as the tank ages.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Oh I thought he was just trying to avoid buying a new bottle/regulator for each additional tank he got. Maybe some of the fanciest SW centered controllers are able to monitor Ph in multiple locations, but you are talking about many hundreds of dollars. Definitely not worth it for a FW planted setup IMO. Also, if it shut off one line, it would have to shut off all the lines at the solenoid. If you want to run your systems on a controller, then you will have to buy a complete setup for each system. If you are just concerned with getting CO2 to a bunch of tanks at different rates without spending a fortune, a manifold is the way to go no doubt.

---

Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Ok so what i'm getting here is that not many people here use controllers(correct me if i'm wrong). Is just a certain bubble count good enough? are pH crashes just very infrequent and not something i should worry about? The regulator i bought had the solenoid attached and i got it for a good price. If i don't use it(solenoid), it's not THAT huge of a deal. BUT if that controller is a good deal (because it's not out of my price range) i'll just order it, the precision would be a plus any way you look at it.

_________________________________________
I'm the classic newb. I went out and bought the smallest tank and a fish at the same time. Now I'm kicking myself wondering how could I have been so stupid. But I'm hooked.

Hi,
There are a variety of uses for the controller but in the
end IMO, it all boils down to how "automatic" or how high
tech you want your tank to be. Salt water tanks could use
them, but to me in a planted tank it is completely
unnecessary.

If you take the time, over a couple of days, from when you
first start injecting CO2, and adjust your bubbles per
minute while watching your pH, with a known KH you can
chart your CO2 saturation. Most start at a bubble per
second, and go up from there. Once you get your saturation
where you want it, a glance at the pH will let you know
when things are starting to shift, and the direction.

I use a "pinpoint" brand pH monitor. It runs 24/7 and
by knowing my KH I can glance at a chart and know my
CO2 saturation. I inject CO2 24/7 as well. I see no
sense in turning it off and on as my tank is lightly
stocked and I'm never going to "over saturate" the system
with CO2. Others, use a solenoid to turn off the CO2 at
night with the lights (on timers, not controllers), and
others even turn on an air pump at the same time they
turn off the lights and CO2.

Which you use is up to you, and each has it proponents
and objectors.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Thank you guys so much, you've been a great help. Now that I'm leaning towards not getting it how long after i set the injection should i test for the levels? I'm sure it's not just "set it, test it, ajust...and repeat" And is there a good start of buble per second for a 20 gallon a starting ph at 7.5?

_________________________________________
I'm the classic newb. I went out and bought the smallest tank and a fish at the same time. Now I'm kicking myself wondering how could I have been so stupid. But I'm hooked.

Hi,
You need two values to come up with the CO2 saturation of
your tank. You need the pH and the KH values, and both are
easy to test with most typical test kits.
Then you find the point on this chart:
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm
where the two lines meet, that is your CO2 saturation.

For planted tanks you want a minimum of 15mg/l and most
run around 30mg/l.

Test for KH, and then every few hours test the pH and
look at the chart. When I set mine up, using the monitor,
I started it at one bubble/second and then returned to the
tank an hour later, then another hour, and then about
4 hours, and again at 6 hours, and then the next morning
when the lights came on (I use a timer). I watched what
it did for 24 hours and then made another change, waited
24, and then made the final change. Don't change the pH
by too much without giving the fish time to acclimate to
the new pH.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--