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Hi

I have a cut-to-fit phosphate filter pad and the instructions do not specify where it is to be positioned in my HOB. I figure for this to be effective that it has to go on the bottom of the sponge, then carbon, then rocks. Would this be correct?

Thanks!


*Mitch*

Mitchee,

That is a good place to put the pad. However, are you sure that you have a problem with phosphates? If you do, there are a number of plants that can help you out.

It sounds like you own an AquaClear (AC). You can use just the sponge and the "rocks" (rings?) and avoid the charcoal. Many of us use charcoal only when we want to eliminate something from the water such as meds or tannins. The charcoal is good for about two weeks then is neutral for a week or two then a problem.



__________
"To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research."
researched from Steven Wright

Hi Bob

I have a brown algae problem and it was suggested that it could be due to phosphates and overfeeding. Took care of the overfeeding part but I did a test for the phosphates just the same and I do have them at 1ppm. Everything I have read on phosphates states that I should be at 0, hence the filter pad. I do have an AquaClear HOB and my LFS did not mention anything about not using the carbon and the instructions on the box say to only change it once a month.

I just read another forum member's post on charcoal where both yourself and Frank responded. Looks like I may be letting some nasties get back into my water with the carbon. I guess the best thing then is to remove the carbon and just place another sponge in the void.

Thanks much


*Mitch*

Hi,
If this tank is a new setup, then the brown algae is
actually an outbreak of diatoms. They thrive on excess
silica (SiO2) and with regular water changes and 10 hours
of light (at least 1 watt/gallon) will disappear as the
silica is depleted (diluted).

Silica can also come in through the municipal water supply.
Check with the water treatment company and ask for the
water analysis.

"Dead" areas, areas without currents, will also encourage
the formation of diatoms, as will weak lighting.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Nitrate and phosphate control is usually not needed in freshwater aquariums unless the levels become very high, or there is a continual problem with undesireable algae blooms. Mini-reef aquariums are the most likely candidates for nitrate and phosphate removers if other means of control don't work.

Both nitrates and phosphates may be controlled with water changes and with plants. A 50% water change reduces your nitrate and phosphate levels by 50% (easy math!). Using hygrophila, ceratophyllum and ceratoperis for plants will also help.

Many water utilities use food grade phosphoric acid to clean their lines. This treatment is a frequent source of phosphates for the aquarist.



__________
"To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research."
researched from Steven Wright