FishProfiles.com Message Forums

I'm running an EHIEM PRO II canister filter on my 120 gal. tank. I'm wondering where to place a carbon pad, the instruction booklet does not specify. My canister is filled in this order from bottom up-- EHFIMECH tray, Blue filter pad, 2&3 containers SUBSTRAT biological medium, white filter pad on top. So, is it best to place the carbon pad on top or under the white pad? Also how long does it last? Is it really necessary? Anybody out there with same filter, I'd like to get any info. how to maintain this filter & also your cleaning methods. Thanks

120 GAL. Community Freshwater (2 huge mated angles, 2 German rams, Red tail shark, 2 Pearl Grammies, 3 Bushynose Plecos, Swordtails

110 Gal. (3 Koi Angles, 3 black marble viel tail Angles) 20 Neon tetras, 1 red tail shark, 3 clown loaches, Platys

Hi,
Actually the only times one should use carbon in a filter
is if:
They are trying to clarify the yellow/brown water from the
addition of driftwood.
They are trying to remove medications from the water after
treating the tank/fish for disease.
They have very large fish that eliminate huge amounts
of urine (ammonia).

Other than that, it's just a waste of money and time.
Depending upon the stocking of the tank, the carbon will
only work for a couple of weeks and then it will no longer
absorb the chemicals and becomes just another part of the
mechanical filter.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Hi,

When I bought my Ehiem, it had a carbon filter with it which was placed on top of the white filter pad. I removed it after two weeks and didn't bother replacing it.

I do however replace the white filter pad. Usually after cleaning out the filter twice, its past its useby. I am trying to be good and give the filter pads, etc a clean every month, with tank water of course!

I dont buy the Ehiem brand filter pads as they are way too expensive, i've found a cheaper version of the same filter and its sold in a large piece so in actual fact I can cut out about 3 filters from the one piece.

Hope this helps Bar-B.

Cheers
Crusha

---

Those who say they cant, Never will !!!

The chemical filtration like carbon needs to be placed at least after the mechanical filtration. In that setup it probably wouldn't matter where you put it as long as it's after the blue filter pad. However the closer to the top the easier it is to change frequently. Whether you run carbon constantly or not is partially preference and partially dependent on your exact setup but it does need to be changed frequently. At least monthly for most types of carbon but at least every 2weeks would probably be preferable.

If you decide that you need to run carbon constantly (I don't reccomend it, but some people do) it should be changed every 2-3 weeks, as it stops working.

I personally use it only in the conditions that Frank listed above, which is next to never... but I do have a big container of it on hand if I do need it, which I expect I won't for quite some time.

I personally don't buy standard media made by my filter manufacturers, it's way to expensive. I buy big rolls of filter floss, and cut them up so they fit in the filter right. It comes in sheets (as previously stated), rolls, balls, etc... whatever kind you want. It's dirt cheap too... you can get 10 square feet of it off of bigal's for like $5!

If you are using carbon (or any other sort of chemical filtration), I reccomend that you place it between two things that are being used as mechanical filtration, such as sponges or filter floss or pads or whatever--and preferably in a mesh bag (you can buy them for dirt cheap at just about any LFS). That way, none of the carbon (or whatever sort of chemical filtration you're using) will get into the system

HTH

Since we're talking about a carbon pad and not loose pieces you wouldn't need to place it between any specific layers. If you do use carbon pieces you need to confine them to a bag or between layers of filter pads.

I think considering the junk in some tap or well water and how much of it carbon can remove that it's definitely worth it to run it constantly in some systems. I actually found carbon too weak at removing all the crap that exists in our water and use seachem's purigen. It's stronger than carbon and can be recharged about 10-15times before seachem reccomends replacing it. It also won't release things back out into the water if you don't get around to recharging it. I would not run a tank using the tapwater here without constantly working chemical filtration. Even though I use RO water for most of the tanks I still leave purigen in my filters all the time. If I recharge purigen that has been run on our tapwater it leaves behind a brownish red sludge in the bottom of the bucket from all the stuff it's collected out of the water. With ro water it lasts 3-4months longer before recharing and doesn't leave that layer behind so it's definitely removing alot from the tapwater.

Just on the topic.. the hard sponge that comes in eheim (and probably most other) filters does this need to be replaced or is rinsing it thoroughly enough?

---

Truth doesn't always win friends but it influences them

carpe_diem, are you talking about the blue sponge? I was told by the LFS that sold me my Ehiem just to rinse it out when you do the rest of the filter. I would assume that eventually it will need to be replaced, however not as frequently as the white sponge at the top of the filter.

Cheers
Crusha

---

Those who say they cant, Never will !!!

Hi,
Eventually, the sponge will begin to fall apart and no
longer completely fill the space. When it does it allows
the detritus (dirt) to flow around the sponge defeating
its purpose. Then is the time to replace it.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

crusha - yes that blue sponge .. my other eheim filter i think its the classic series.. has a green one which is quite thick .. i was just wondering as ive never replaced it just rinsed it well..

thanks !

---

Truth doesn't always win friends but it influences them

I also have the Eheim Pro 11 and was advised from the very begining it is not required at all. If it has to be used if I remember correctly it is at the very top and then for a short time only it is not a wash and wear product it is a use and toss out product. It is a good practice to fully pull down the Pro 11 monthly that I say would be the maximum time I would use it if at all.

If you want more info contact Eheim direct and ask them.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info

Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW

Thanks, everybody for your input. Seems everyone has just a little bit different experience with the carbon. I asked at my LFS where I bought my filter and they recc. that the carbon pad should go on the very top of the last (top) tray, under the handle, then the white filter pad goes on top of the handle as usual. Note to Carpe diem : the Blue thick pad, it says in the EHIEM manual should be rinsed in running water so that some of the residential bacteria remains an should be replaced every 2 or 3 times. Personally I think I will last a lot longer.

120 GAL. Community Freshwater (2 huge mated angles, 2 German rams, Red tail shark, 2 Pearl Grammies, 3 Bushynose Plecos, Swordtails

110 Gal. (3 Koi Angles, 3 black marble viel tail Angles) 20 Neon tetras, 1 red tail shark, 3 clown loaches, Platys