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When I get some room, and maybe some extra money, I'm thinking about making a container to age my tapwater for water changes. I figured I'd might as well make it heated to the temp of my tanks to make it that much easier as well. Below is a sketch of my plan....if anyone sees obvious flaws in the design I'm all ears as I prefer to not find out the hard way, hehe.

edit - the thing in the middle bottom of the drum is the pump. Forgot the label

[span class="edited"][Edited by jake 2004-08-08 15:51][/span]
jake attached this image:
[img]http://www.fishprofiles.net/attachments/411484.jpg"]

Hi Jake,
Got your notes, this does look much better

My only comments are pertaining to the expense.
First, remember that most cities and many muni's
are also adding chloramine to the water, along
with chlorine. The chloramine will not degass
as will chlorine, and you will have to add
an additive to the barrel to remove that.

Heating the barrel is going to be expensive, as is
maintaining the circulation.

While it is neat, I wonder how practicial it actually
is when servicing only a tank or two. It would seem
that the "Python" would be faster and less expensive.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Jake

I have two 25lt plactic water containers. After each water change I add the necessary chemicals to remove all the nasties. It is stored "COLD" my main reason for this is that I always had a white spot problem during winter. Also living in a tourist town the nasties "chloramine" go up and down and is never stable.

I have not had a white spot problem fo 10+ years since I started doing this.

When I am ready to do the water change I fill the laundry trough with hot water and this warms the water up no problems at all. I tried heating the water up with tank heaters but this did not work broke too many also not vey efficient at I also had to circulate the water as well.

The water is not wasted it gets used for various jobs.

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
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I know that chloramine is ammonia bonded with chlorine in some fashion, to prevent it out gassing as quickly as chlorine would by itself, but I was under the impression that the chlorine would still gas out given more time, even if the ammonia was left in the water ( which a healthy bio filter would dispose of no problem). I'll have to investigate that a bit more. (not that I don't believe ya, I just like corroborating evidence). I'll also have to check and see if my city uses chloramine or chlorine. I've always used a product that would remove both, but for aging water I guess it's a more important factor.

I have a python but was looking for a more natural solution to remove the chlorine than chemical use. Also, having water with a temp already matched to the tanks I am filling would cut down on some water usage ( seems like it takes forever with the water running over a thermometer to get it just where you want it). Anything I did not want to add directly to tank as far as chemicals go could be added to the drum of aged water, much like sw people do with their sumps and what not.

Anyway, it warrants a little more investigation on my part to see if it's even worth doing. I appreciate the comments!

I've recently started heating, treating, and airating my water for several hours before adding water to any of my tanks. I've been using purified water from a filter that's supposed to remove all chlorine and about 90% of the heavy metals in the water (copper, iron, etc). Apperantly it's working good...all the fish are happy

For some reason there aren't any traces of nitrates or ammonia in my tap water (even before it goes thru my filter)...it's scary...

I checked with my water department, and "The City uses Sodium Hypochlorite for disinfection here at the water plant. We maintain a 1.0-1.3 mg/l of residual chlorine on our distribution system. If you need any additional information, please contact the water plant at xxx-xxxx."

I found the site where I was reading about aging water to remove the chlorine ....http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_chlorine.htm. After rearranging the room a bit, I'll see if I can't find a drum to use. I already have a spare powerhead and a spare 250W heater which will probably suffice. I also have a remote control plug-in ( the device plugs into the socket and then your equipment plugs into the device) that I found at a department store clearance shelf for $7 usd to turn the pump on and off without having to make a mad dash . The thing actually works! Been using it to turn on and off lamps.

I might give this thing a go after calling the water department and seeing if they plan on going to chloramine any time in the future. If nothing else, I could probably save it for if I ever get a large sw tank...would be nice to keep some saltwater mixed up in

[span class="edited"][Edited by jake 2004-08-09 18:23][/span]

I decided to go ahead with it...got some pics too





Silicone needs to dry, getting a sponge prefilter to put over the holes in the pvc on my super big intake, and I'll be all set. I made the pump external and cut holes in the lids of the barrels so switching between the two when one becomes empty is as easy as pulling out the big ol intake I made and sticking it into the other barrel. I'd have made a more permanent solution , but the owners of the apartment complex won't even let you take out plant hanging hooks from the ceiling because it will leave a hole.. I could only imagine what they'd think of me knocking a hole in the wall and making a pvc water distribution system.

Them : ]:|
Me: [/font][/font][/font]

[span class="edited"][Edited by jake 2004-08-19 12:57][/span]

Few more photos.


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