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Ok, here we are, parameters first.
55 Gallon Tank, 81F
GH 120, KH 180, PH 7.5, N02 0, N03 20, Ammonia 0, Copper 0.25. Cupramine is the medication.
Now, I finally took responsibility for the filter and (using tankwater) thouroughly cleaned it, and repacked it correctly.... The tank water has never been so clear. YAY!
Now, what are my next steps?
1) How can I be sure the Ick is gone?
2) When can I add new fish?

We are hoping to start with about six more Bosemani, and 4 red rainbows.

I should also add, we are picking up a 20 gallon small tank to act as our quarantine tank before we get any new stock.
Also, our remaining Bosemani has recovered completely, and truly is more beautiful than ever.

55G -5x Bosemani, 3x Emerald Cory,3x Red Rainbow, 3x Turquoise Rainbow. 20G-Empty. 10G -4x Danio 3x Cory Fry 1 Gold Mystery Snail. 10G- 1x CAE, 2x Tetra 1x ADF

Hi,
First, run the medication, with no carbon in the filter
for the full time period listed in the instructions. Many
will run it for a "tad" longer, say a few days to a week
longer, just to be sure.

Then following the instructions, do the water change,
add carbon back into the filter. IMO, about two weekly
water changes later, you would be ready for more fish.
(Many would do it sooner, but I'm rather Conservative.)

However... Before you do that... Set up the QT tank and
get it cycled, FIRST. No sense in all that work and
money spent on the main tank to turn around and dump new
fish in it without a proper QT period.
A QT tank is simply a smaller version of the main tank.
It has a heater, filter, gravel, plants, and places for the
new, nervous fish to hide. You can jump start the QT tank
with one of the bacteria cultures on today's market, and
at the same time toss four platties (for instance)
in there to get some ammonia to maintain the bacteria.
Depending upon what you are going to add to the main tank
the platties or guppies can also provide some live food
for the new fish while they are in QT.

Frank

-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

1) How can I be sure the Ich is gone

Do you know how you got the Ich in the first place?
Did it come through your water supply (as mine does) or was it via a fish and or plant?
I would treat the tank as Frank recommended but I would keep treating for an extra 3-4 weeks.
To keep Ich out can be a lot harder a QT tank is a excellent method yet I have never owned one in 35+ years. Get to know your LFS and what days their deliveries arrive and NEVER buy on that day wait a few days then have a look if they have any sign of Ich you should be able to see if they have any health problems.

I also store my water in 25lt water containers for one week. I heat the water in the laundry trough. before it is introduced into the tank. As the Ich requires a host and there is no host in the containers it must die.

All these are precautions you should take to eliminate the risk taking with Ich and other problems.

Only add when the tank is up and running with perfect water parameters, and the fish have been QT
Then add the fish slowly by that I mean acclimatising them correctly ofter a period of time.
Then a few fish per week if you put all your fish in at once you will go through another cycling process.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info

Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

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Pretty sure it came in on the pleco that died.... bought from a LFS that looked good but didn't. I don't have live plants, so that's out.
I'm gonna do the whole QT thing, and I'll just have to trust Big Al's on the fish.
How would I find out about the water supply?

55G -5x Bosemani, 3x Emerald Cory,3x Red Rainbow, 3x Turquoise Rainbow. 20G-Empty. 10G -4x Danio 3x Cory Fry 1 Gold Mystery Snail. 10G- 1x CAE, 2x Tetra 1x ADF

I know the answer might sound simple but contact them
or do a Google and you might find out about what they add to your water.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info

Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW

I actually used to be the town planner for my municipality before I went into the construction business! So I have a fairly good idea of who to call re-chemicals in the water.
I should have been more specific, I was curious as to how to tell if the ick parasite was in the water.
Thanks again!
Dan

55G -5x Bosemani, 3x Emerald Cory,3x Red Rainbow, 3x Turquoise Rainbow. 20G-Empty. 10G -4x Danio 3x Cory Fry 1 Gold Mystery Snail. 10G- 1x CAE, 2x Tetra 1x ADF

Setting up QT tank with my existing danios.... good idea or bad idea?
They never seemed to have Ick, and still seem fine, as does the tank.

55G -5x Bosemani, 3x Emerald Cory,3x Red Rainbow, 3x Turquoise Rainbow. 20G-Empty. 10G -4x Danio 3x Cory Fry 1 Gold Mystery Snail. 10G- 1x CAE, 2x Tetra 1x ADF

Danios are pretty hardy, but are aggresive to certain fish. Live bearers are much more effiecnt as to food (Their Fry can be used as live foods) and are beautiful.

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To be honest I don't think you can unless you have a powerful microscope at home and know exactly what to look for.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info

Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW