FishProfiles.com Message Forums

Justin,

Hey - you are right on my side of the Harlequin Lover spectrum (although I have Espei), but I guess you knew that.

Robyn, sorry that I did not participate in the Banana Plantation discussion, but I know too little about it.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

That's fine Ingo - you are my main conributor to all other queries & I know you have many worries with work & your new apisots. I have put the banana plants in, but if they ever reach their potential of huge leaves, they will have to come out. While they are little, I give them a try & see. The funny shaped one has already sorted itself out a little - probably by trying to seek the light.

Cheers
TW

Here are some shots after tonight's water change.

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Cheers
TW

from another angle

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Cheers
TW

closeup of right hand side. This side is an experiment, full of several plants that probably won't make it in my low light.

I have blyxa, chain sword, lily grass & some sort of red plant (I don't know the name) - so I'll see how long they last.

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Cheers
TW

Your tank is looking pretty sharp. The large chunk of DW seems to give your tank some depth as you have plants sourounding it as ground cover.

How many fish do you have in there?

55G Planted tank thread
19G Container Pond
[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wingsdlc/Ric

Hi Wings, thanks.

I have:-
2 male Endlers
5 gold twin bar Platys (2M / 3F)
7 Harlequin Rasboras
6 sterbai cory
3 otos (not sure if they are all still there - usually only see 2 at a time)
4 Boesemani Rainbowfish (2 M & 2F)

The rainbows were originally to be moved into my empty 4ft tank, but for the moment, I'm banned from setting up that tank. Luckily at the moment, the rainbows are only small. Don't know what I'll do about them as they grow bigger, but they're ok for now. Hubby bought them for me as a gift.

Cheers
TW

I added some some riccia covered rocks at today's water change. It's not as nice as I thought it would look though. The rocks aren't well enough covered, but hopefully time will correct that. It's also a much lighter colour than I expected. I thought there would be a strong colour contrast between the lighter wisteria & the darker riccia, but they are practically the same colour.

First pic is a full shot. Why is my ricca so pale in colour?

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Cheers
TW

A close up, showing the partly covered rocks. You can see here just how light it is. Is it a trick of tetratech's camera that his riccia looks so dark in comparison to mine?

A platy is zooming in to try munching on the riccia. I've noticed that they are enjoying trying to pull the riccia out through the netting holding it in place.

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Cheers
TW

This is just in case Rick checks in. You asked for pics of the riccia hair net preparation.

This pic shows the riccia sitting on top of the rock. The hair net is shown, just waiting to be used to secure the riccia. Just keep wrapping net over itself, until it holds.


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Cheers
TW

You can see here just how light it is. Is it a trick of tetratech's camera that his riccia looks so dark in comparison to mine?

No camera tricks Robyn , although my main group probably shades the foreground ricica more than the wisteria, but the biggest factor here IMO is hardscape. If you look at my tank not including the new riccia rocks almost all of the riccia is separated from the other plants by rock. The rock creates the constrast. and you could enjoy the different texture and shape of the riccia. If the majority of your riccia is simply sitting next to the wisteria than it probably won't show as much. You need to incorporate levels and/or rock to give it depth and interest. Congratulations, you've taken the next step in the wonderful world of aquascaping.

My Scapes

Robyn,

Your great!! I like seeing how people put things together in thank as much as how the tank looks in the end!

The ricca looks good and so does the tank. Everything looks very healthy. /:'

Rick
See all my pictures at Google Web Albums

Thanks tetratech & Rick

It lacks something. The riccia didn't create the contrast I'm looking for & tetratech has hit it on the head.

I need to have more of a distinct separation between the wisteria & the riccia. I need bigger rocks - but not too big - & with interesting shapes. They need to be big enough to create different levels, but not taking away that I want that part of the tank to remain on the low side (except for the wood on the far right). For the moment I can't find such rocks & I won't do anything until I find just the right rocks.

If I had time, engergy & somewhere to put fish & keep filter running in the meantime, I'd also change the gravel to Eco Complete. The gravel is meant to be black, but looks more like grey to me. IMO black would give me a better look than currently in the tank.

Thanks for the input.

Cheers
TW

If I had time, engergy & somewhere to put fish & keep filter running in the meantime, I'd also change the gravel to Eco Complete

I hear you

Exactly my thoughts for the 125G, but I would need an even bigger container. So - who is in this tank now? I could imagine that a bigger plastic bin would be big enough for you to actually house the fishies during a Little_Fish style overhaul

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Rubbermaids are the greatest for such things. I use them all the time for fish stuff. When I moved my tanks it was my saving grace. Now when I do plant trimming I use the cover on a TV food tray as my work bench.



55G Planted tank thread
19G Container Pond
[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wingsdlc/Ric

So - who is in this tank now?

2 male Endlers
5 gold twin bar Platys (2M / 3F)
7 Harlequin Rasbora
6 sterbai cory
3 otos (not sure if they are all still there - usually only see 2 at a time)
4 Boesemani Rainbow fish (2 M & 2F)

Hi Ingo & Wings,

I have 2 x 31G containers on wheels that I use at my water change time, so I could put the fish in those. (That's what I used when I wrecked another tank by adding the ADA soil without emptying - do you remember Ingo?) Not sure if the trickle filter would sit on top ok during the work - I don't want my filter to need cycling all over again, so I'd want to be able to keep it running. But, the other crucial factors, currently missing, are time & energy. One day, one day .....

Anyway, my naughty fish are busily eating away at my riccia

Below is a shot of the rocks. On Wednesday, you couldn't see any of the rocks. They didn't eat java moss, so I wonder why they're eating this.

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Cheers
TW

Here is a shot of my very 1st flower ever. And it wasn't there when I bought the plant either, it grew in the tank all by itself. You can see even see a little pearling on the left hand side. It was actually pearling all over, but only the bubble on the left shows in the pic.

Ho hum, says Ingo who has flowers all the time, but this is my FIRST. It took long enough - about 6 months.

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Cheers
TW

Ho Hum



If you ever should go and move the fish out to redo the tank then I would say add the filter media to one bucket and have an air pump going on it. Also, add some of the plants to that bucket (the rest of them with the fish). That should take care of the media and the bacteria.

As to fish eating the Riccia: Java moss tastes , Riccia is . That is why, try it yourself (just kidding on the trying part).
I would assume that the main plant eaters are the platies and the rainbows.

Nice flower, hope you will have many more.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Robyn congrats on the flower

I like the way you setup the riccia rocks running from center to front. Is that the Blyxa to the right?

My Scapes

Robyn, we all know that Ingo has only had one anubias flower, but has taken MANY pictures of it and has released them slowly to us over time. Don't let him tell you any different.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

You found me out. Actually, I never had even one. I took photos of them in varuious fish stores.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Thanks for the replies guys. Yep, rainbows & platys eat the riccia, but so do the corys. Annoying, as I had to search hard & missed out on 3 bids on ebay before I could get the riccia. None in LFS.

I like the way you setup the riccia rocks running from center to front. Is that the Blyxa to the right?

Thanks tetratech. The effect is lost in a full view, cause the rocks are too low. I need to create more of a division, both in height & separation. Once I find suitable rocks & get more riccia. Yes that is blyxa to the right. In front of the blyxa is dwarf chain sword & behind the blyxa is lilly grass. This side of the tank is an experiment, as the plants shouldn't really grow in my light. I think that's why the chain sword is going yellow & the blyxa isn't as green as it should be. The only one doing well is the lilly grass, my least favourite, but if the others all die I'll pack in more of that instead. I even have one red plant in there & so far it isn't dying, but it's not a fast grower like my wisteria or hygro.

All in all, the tank is less work to maintain these days, with the only faster growers being tucked in behind the big piece of wood.



Cheers
TW

Ingo

Java moss tastes , Riccia is .

I wonder if I should plant it the way the seller instructed. He gave 2 versions, the 1st being how I did it (riccia straight on the rock & then secured). But he said he grows it himself by putting a thin layer of riccia, then a layer of java moss, & then a 2nd layer of riccia on top, then securing it. The mixture might make it taste less appealing.

Any thoughts?

Cheers
TW

Hm, interesting.

All options on mixing other plants with Riccia that I have heard of have been solemnly for the purpose of keeping the plant down and locked to a location. Usually, hair grass is recommended for that purpose.

I never heard off mixing in moss to make the taste worse. I would assume that a fish can distinct between the light green Riccia and the dark green moss. Or is it assumed that the flavor would carry over from one plant to the other?

If you have some spare Moss and some spare Riccia, it sure would not harm to try it, but I don't know the outcome.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

As a reminder, here is a shot of the tank before tonight's water change. The creeping wisteria always grows too high for my liking.

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Cheers
TW

Here is a shot of the banana plant (or whatever it's called) that came for free with a plant order. It was an extra, 'cause the order was late. There have been at least 2 shoots that have already reached to surface, but I cut them off. As they look now, I quite like them. The stem can reach the surface really quickly. Two days ago, they were all fairly short (about the size in this pic) but tonight, I cut 2 back that had reached the surface & then started to cross the tank.

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Cheers
TW

Here is tonight's full shot. The creeping wisteria has been lowered & I have some new rocks. I took the riccia off the old rocks, but didn't even really have enough to cover just one of the rocks. I'll have to try to win another ebay auction for the stuff.

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Cheers
TW

Lastly, a close up of the area with the new rocks.

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Cheers
TW

Very nice Robyn
The wisteria is so easy to cut back that's one reason I like it. The banana plant looks like an Anubias in that pic. Adds some nice interest. Save some money and just wait for the riccia to grow. I started with a tiny amount just enough to partially cover two small rocks and have never purchased anymore.

My Scapes

Nice Robyn,

What is that plant in front of the Blyxa? Tenellus?

Right now your tank actually has a distinct street, on the right of the driftwood with the Blyxa in the back and the other one in the front. It will be interesting to see how the addition of a full Riccia stone at the left of it will change this (hold on to the picture for later comparison).

I am with tetratech, if you have the time then just grow out enough Riccia. On the other hand, it is hard to wait so long to achieve some vision one has right now.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Hi tetratch & LF. Thanks for the replies.

What is that plant in front of the Blyxa? Tenellus?

LFS told me it's chain sword. Maybe it is Tenellus, I don't really know.

if you have the time then just grow out enough Riccia

It's more whether my fish leave the riccia be or not. Last Wednesday I received a 30cm sq batch of riccia. A week later, all I have left is what you see on that one rock. I mightn't have enough light for it either.

I added additional layers of hair net, to make the fishes work harder to get at it. If this doesn't work, I guess it's back to java moss, but that's not what I really want.

Right now your tank actually has a distinct street....

I think I'm purposely trying to create layers & divisions. The left hand side isn't quite right at the moment, as the hyrgo is still too short. My vision for the left side is:- light green,low growing wisteria, a few inches of dark wood showing above it, with the darkish fern on top. Then rising behind would be the taller & lighter colours of blue stricta & hygro. I've heard others say this too, but there only seems a short period of time when these fast stem growers are just the right height. Then it's time for a trim & I'm left with a couple of weeks when they're too short. That's where I'm at now. My plan for the red rocks, topped with glosso, is that they are to follow the wisteria as it turns to wrap around & behind the big wood. Then to the right, the low field of my experimental plants of Blyxa, chain sword, lilly grass as well as nana anubia. Finished off with branchy wood & java ferns. We don't seem to have NL java fern - not even on-line, but that's what I'd really like to replace the java fern with. One day, I may yet find it. This side also has some crypts left over from the original planting. They really don't fit in, but so far they are healthy & I have no where to put them.

Cheers
TW

It's more whether my fish leave the riccia be or not. Last Wednesday I received a 30cm sq batch of riccia. A week later, all I have left is what you see on that one rock. I mightn't have enough light for it either.

Yeah that's probably the difference growth rates based on the light. I have alot of fish that eat it (rainbow, rams) and I actually starve my fish, so they end up eating more it.

I actually feel I have a pretty good situation with the riccia, because it grows, but not at such a fast rate, so I only have to trim once a month or so. If I increase light probably more pearling, more growth on both the riccia and the stargrass I might actually start to reduce my stargrass to almost an accent instead of a main group. It just grows to fast. It's got to be one of the fastest growers around especially overnite.

My Scapes

Hi tetratech

Thanks for response. I have seen pearling on my riccia, but not consistently. I agree the problem is probably the light - which is giving problems on most of the plants on the right hand side.

I don't know that I'll be able to change the lights, as hubby is really against me doing it. I'm searching the net & asking the manufacturer if there are any instructions about retrofit kits to upgrade the lighting in an Aqua One hood.

Cheers
TW

Weekly update. I've allowed the creepin wisteria to grow in higher this week - no trimming. This was because I have platy fry hiding in it & want to give them as much cover as I can. Even so, I think they have mostly ended up as snacks.

Here is a full shot, with the overgrown creeping wisteria. Note the two lily pad leaves on the surface. Follow the stems down to left hand side of the tank. Everyone was right when the said the banana lily pads will travel all over the place.

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Cheers
TW

Next will come a couple of shots from the top of the tank, giving a better view of the banana lily pad. Looks like even though they seek the light, that they have been burnt a little by getting too close.

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Cheers
TW

Another areal shot. You get a glimpse of my experimental red plant. I don't know what it's called (as I didn't expect to have it long). It's been in there around a month & I've placed it where it gets no shade & is directly under the tubes.

It hasn't died - but the under leaves are greener, I think. You can also see the Blyxa next to it & to the right.

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Cheers
TW

Another experiment - dwarf hair grass.

Having trouble keeping this one in the grave.

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Cheers
TW

My riccia is starting to grow. It may not show up here, but I can see bright green little shoots peeking out of the hair net.

None at the moment, but I often see it pearling.

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Cheers
TW

It seems that out of my experimental plants that at least the chain sword is doing more than just existing. It has sent out runners, but not in the direction I wanted. Here is a picture of them crossing in front of my riccia rock. After the photo, I pulled up the runners & redirected them where I wanted them (behind the riccia rock.

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Cheers
TW

One of these days, I will get out the calendar & count out what week I'm up to. Anyway, here's the start of this week's update.

My experimental red stem plant is no more. I have a gap in the tank where it was & when I can find them, I'll fill in the gap with more chain swords. Out of all the experimental plants on that side of the tank, I think it is the one that is doing the best. The Blyxa is just sort of hanging in there, but the chain swords look nice & green.

The tank hasn't changed much, basically 'cause I'm fairly happy with it. I still like the wood on the right hand side too much to remove it. The fern on my main wood is getting some algae - it's going brown in places.



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Cheers
TW

The next few posts are just me trying to capture the beauty of my male Pelvicachromis taeniatus Nigeria Red

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Cheers
TW

And another

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Cheers
TW

Robyn,

At least from the distance the tank looks very nice

All seems to be lush and healthy, and that is a good thing.

And the first shot of your Nigeria Red is also pretty good, he sure does look very colorful (and mean - did you bug him? ).

How is the hair grass experiment coming along?

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

your Nigeria Red is also pretty good, he sure does look very colorful (and mean - did you bug him? ).

That is just how he looks, but he is actually very peaceful. He is my 2nd Nigeria Red. I bought him as a playmate for the one in my 20G, as he looked lonely. I thought this would work, as some detail I found on these fish said they were conspecific peaceful - but my 1st male must not have read up on that fact & he was having none of it. He angrily watched during the acclimatisation process & once I released the intruder, he made an immediate physical change. His face turned the brightest red ever, he puffed up his cheeks to at least double size & opened his mouth to the fullest. I guess this is his fighting look. I had to rescue the intruder within minutes & had no choice but to add him to this tank without a QT period. I hope I don't have any problems with this.

How is the hair grass experiment coming along?

Not too bad. Here is a shot. I do notice some tips that are a bit brown, so I'll keep watching it. I have a bit of a hodge podge of experimental plants in this section, which eventually I'll need to come to some sort of decision of which will stay & which will go. I'm enjoying how they reduce the maintenance in the tank, having this side of the tank with plants that don't need trimming.



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Cheers
TW

That's a nice find on the Pelvicachromis taeniatus. I haven't seen those in New York. So they are African but live in soft acidic water different from their cousin Pelvicachromis pulcher.

The blyxa definitely needs strong light. I'm actually surprised it's lasted as long as it has with your current lights.

EDIT: How long has the hairgrass been in there.

My Scapes

Pelvicachromis taeniatus. I haven't seen those in New York. So they are African but live in soft acidic water different from their cousin Pelvicachromis pulcher.

They're West African, I think from a riverine area called Cameroon. Where I bought him, they only had 2 males & I bought both of them. There's one in the 20G too. In the 20G I picked up a female from another LFS, and I'm only hoping that she really is a match. She doesn't have the red on her like the males - but when I googled on the internet, it seemed normal for the female to have a yellow chin instead. They apparently like a low pH, but can live happily in 7 or above. For breeding, soft water with a low pH is best - but this guy has no wife. the water should suit him though, as it fluctuates from 6.8 to 7.5, depending on what time in the C02 cycle it is.

How long has the hairgrass been in there.

Not that long, only since around 8 September.

Cheers
TW

I'm going away tomorrow for 3 nights, so fingers crossed the C02 doesn't run out while I'm gone. Hoping it won't matter too much that the ferts & traces won't get dosed as usual. I think I'd rather leave the tank untouched while I'm gone, rather than ask hubby or my daughter to feed or dose the tank. It should cope for those days I'm away, I'm guessing. All the tanks will miss out on their weekly water change, but even that I assume as a "once off event" will not matter too much.

Cheers
TW

Robyn,

It may matter a little, but if you throw in a water change once you are back you should be fine. If your tank would be on the edge to collaps then it would matter more.

Have fun at whatever you are doing for the next few days,

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Thanks Ingo

Have fun at whatever you are doing for the next few days

5 domestic flights & a couple of driving trips in 3 days, on a business trip. Doesn't found like that much fun. Unfortunately, I will have a couple of these type of trips during the next 6-12 months.

I think whatever mess may happen by the neglect, may be better than what could happen if someone plays with the tank - as I haven't really taught anyone properly. When I went to the marathon in April I asked if someone could feed the small 7G hospital tank & I came home to murky water. I couldn't clear it by doing daily 50% water change over several days & finally pulled the tank completely apart. It had an underground filter & when I took all the gravel out - the gunk under there was unbelievable. Hard to imagine how much the fish would have been overfed to have caused that much gunk in one weekend. Since then, I've never asked anyone to touch any of the tanks.

Cheers
TW

I asked if someone could feed the small 7G hospital tank & I came home to murky water

If you had mentioned how much to feed per day and it hadn't been done right (and all your family members are grown-ups) then this is a sign that they don't really want to take care of your tanks. So - not having anyone do anything may be the best approach .

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

I agree. Even if I'm gone a week, I don't have anybody feed the tank. Very dangerous.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

I'm hoping someone can set me straight here. Way back when I first started out, I've looked back through my earliest threads & I can see Tom Barr suggested I should add the epsom salt 1/2 tspn after the water change. I also thought bensaf said the same, but 1/4 tspn. I don't remember for sure why I'm adding it though.

The subject of adding epsom salt came up in another thread and here is an extract of one of the comments in regards to epsom salt

So_Very_Sneaky Wrote:
Do Not add Epsom salt to a tank with every water
change. Epsom salts can actually cause the fish to be
robbed of fluids. This should only ever be used in cases of constipation, and only in a dip. You should never ever keep a constant amount of epsom salts in your tank.

Now I'm sure that the plant expert Tom Barr would not have recommended the epsom salt if it was going to harm my fish, but So_Very_Sneaky seems very sure of her advice.

I was wondering what other opinions there are on the issue of epsom salts? I don't want to hurt my fish.

Cheers
TW

Robyn,

I don't know what this salt is for either . Can it be that it was suggested to you instead of Baking Soda or Seachem Equilibrium, the first to buffer KH, the second to buffer GH?

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

I can only find Tom's response, can't find bensaf's. But what I remember him writing was something along these lines: "you don't need the expensive Seachem Equilibrium, epsom salt will do".

You're an IT wiz - how can I call up all of my threads - not just my active threads? Maybe then when I have some time I can search for bensaf's advice on this (at least I think it was bensaf - could be wrong).

If it's going to hurt my fish, I won't use it .... but there must have been a reason why Tom Barr recommended it. That thread I can find, but Tom doesn't say why I'm adding it.

Thanks for the response Ingo

Cheers
TW

I was close, with my guess that it is either KH or GH related.

Anyway, you don't really need an IT wiz for that

If you remember the forum it was posted in then go there and expand the list of threads to "last year". Then use the find menu (In your browser window, the Edit Menu drop down, option find). Type in your name (TankWatcher) and hit "find next" until you come to the thread that may contain the answer.

If you did not create that thread then your name wouldn't do. In this case try to remember any word that may have been in the title and search by that word.

Hope this helps,

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Epsom salts, or magnesium sulfate, is the accepted way of raising Mg levels in your tank. I think Mg falls under GH as they aren't carbonates. I was adding it in limited amounts at water changes for the nesea when I had it and still add a little bit.

As far as robbing your fish of water: yes, in high enough concentrations. Fresh water fish cant handle high concentrations of any salt like marine fish can. But saying you can't add any MgSO4 to your tank at water changes is silly. It's the same as saying you can't add aquarium salt to your tank. I'm not sure that aquarium salt has a beneficial effect, but we've all seen that low concentrations it won't hurt anybody.

From wetwetbmedia.com

Re: quick Epsom Salt question
Hello again, and thanks for all the help!
<our pleasure>
Could you please explain what Epsom salt does and its proper usage in the aquarium setting? ~Jim
<Okey-dokey... Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) is a fundamental and necessary component of sea salt but has numerous benefits to life at large. It is used with people and pets (birds, dogs, cats, etc) as a laxative. In the aquarium, this very property helps stressed and struggling creatures maintain better osmotic balance. Thus, a fish with a bumped and swollen eye can get relief (fluid from swollen eye) from Epsom salt. It is added to most dry fish foods to prevent internal blockage from greedy feeding fishes. It also is used in fresh or salt water to raise hardness and electrolyte levels. Dosed in moderation, there are few disadvantages to it. Most doses are 1 tsp to 1 TBSPN per 10 gallons and can be repeated. There is more information in our archives on this topic. Best regards, Anthony>

That's Anthony Calfo...one of the foremost in the reef hobby and propagating corals. Knows his stuff.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Thanks Matty & Ingo for the Epsom salt advice.

Thought I'd share a pic of my 2nd ever annubia flower. I won't get too excited. Do you see to the right of this flower a bent over stem. That is my 1st ever flower. I don't know why, but it only stayed open for a day or so, then the leaf case closed back up around the flower & it bent over backwards on itself. Why would it do this?

I hope this flower doesn't do the same.

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Cheers
TW

I never saw an anubias flower do that, but they don't usually last very long anyways. Mine have always shed the casing, then the flower kind of dies off. Maybe it realized it was under water.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

You Nana Flower Amateurs

Anyway, the length of the life of a flower in my tanks depends mostly on the tank conditions, low tech = long, high tech = short. Makes sense, as all growth in a high tech is much faster.

In the high tech:

I usually see a closed bud developing for about a week, with the stem extending and the bud beginning to release a stream of really small air bubbles.

The the bud opens and the white flower center emerges, staying healthy for about 2 to 4 days.

Then, the structure starts to desintigrate, often the center falls off after a while (or dies off until only the skinny core is left), followed by the bud leaf. Most of the time though I do not wait for this to happen and trim the stem off after the flower had its hay days.

In the low tech:

The same, but muuuuuuch slower

That's my story and I am sticking to it,

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Oh, 2-4 days. Is that all. I was expecting weeks of enjoyment So, I have already had this new flower for a couple of days, so I should expect it be gone any moment.

Funny that my other one's casing didn't drop off (as well as the flower). The casing closed back up around the flower and all is still there. It doesn't look dead or unhealthy - but should I trim it off?

Cheers
TW

Robyn,

The tank is looking good. My first Anubias flower did the same thing until I got tired of it and cut it off at a trimming. The one I just got recently bloomed and the disappeared very quickly.

Also a tip incase you have to have someone feed again. This works for flake food. Get some small envelopes and put enough food for each day in each one. Then tell who ever is watching the tank to only put one envelope in at a time no matter what. This way you still dose the food.


Rick
See all my pictures at Google Web Albums

Robyn,

Yeah, that may happen, flowers may decide that it is too wet outside . Wait a while and as long as it is not starting to disintegrate you can keep it without any issues.

Rick's tip is good. I have a different form of providing food for a "feeder". I use these one-week pill cases where each day is a separate chamber. They have even the beginning letters of the day imprinted, as such I am able to provide different foods for different days in the right order.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Hoping for some quick advice about my chain swords - they are one of my experimental plants on the right side of the tank (experimental due to low light). Anyway, they have taken off with a mind of their own, with little runners & new smaller plants - all going where I don't want them. To replant them, can I separate them fully (ie cut off the runners that link them together & then just plant them where I want them?

Thanks for advice.

Cheers
TW

Yes, you can seperate each plant and replant where you want. Leave just a small amount of the runner on either side of the plant.

Nice to hear they are doing well for you. These are one of my favorite plants

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

In case it is needed, I second Matty

Except: Try not to replant the ones that have only a few shorter leaves yet. They may not be strong enough to build up a sufficient root system on their own. The also are hard to keep planted and always give me the biggest trouble sticking in the groud.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

I say do try to keep the small ones as long as they do have a bit of root and 1 leaf of at least and inch and a small leaf or two. I've not gotten anything much smaller than that to grow for me, but if they are that big I can consistantly get them to grow to full size.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Thanks for the chain sword advice LF & Matty. At last night's water change, I did a major trimming of the tank & I think I may have gotten carried away. It is looking a bit bare in there at the moment. As well as trimming the hygro, I decided to redo the right hand side of the tank - which had been the experimental side. Got rid of some of the varieties & stuck with the ones that worked best. The chain sword had been hiding the Blyxa from view, so they have swapped places. From a starting group of about 2 or 3 blyxa, I now have 8 of them. So, they are sort of working in the tank, but not as lush as they would be if they had more light. they are staying quite small - but at least they did multiply. I hope they survive the replanting. The last batch did not survive when replanted. You can now see my crypt & anubia more. The chain swords have moved to behind the Blyxa and again, from a start of 2 plants, I now have lots of them. Made a bit of a mistake. I can never quite tell how everything is going when I'm replanting & I never get the full picture until the hood is back on & the light switched on. While planting, I thought I had put more than enough chain swords back in and threw out what I thought were surplus. Only after they were squashed & worthless did I realise that I should have kept them. Hopefully in another month or 2, I will have enough to fill it all out a bit more. I also thinned out my java fern & again I think I may have taken too much out. Those I have saved though. I have a whole bucket full of java ferns that multiplied in the tank. I'm going to think about if I want to put some back over the couple of days.

No pictures today, maybe I will take some on the weekend.

Cheers
TW

Robyn,

seems like you almost did a redo Little_Fish style. A word of caution: replanting a lot and trimming/thinning the rest of the plants at the same time can cause some issues in your tank. Your bio-mass has been reduced and the replanted plants will need all their energy to get settled again.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Bit late on this one but with regard to the Epsom Salts. It's just Magnesium Sulphate. Once you have GH above zero you Magnesium in the water, always , constantly. How many fish live in zero GH water ?

Maybe in very high concentrations there's an issue, I don't know. But we are only talking about adding the equivilent of about 2dgh, and only add in situations where the GH is already low. Completely and utterly harmless to fish. In most cases where Mg is added the water will still be softer and have less Mg then the average tank.

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Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

Thanks Bensaf. I have looked at the ingredients of Seachem's Equilibrium & see that it contains magnesium sulfate. So much for it being harmful to fish.

Thanks for popping in.

Cheers
TW

seems like you almost did a redo Little_Fish style.

Yeah, I sneak them in every now & again - pretty much unnoticed. When I added my large wood with the fern -that was pretty much a full redo as well.

Anyway, here is the full tank shot. It needs a little more filling out. To the left of the hygro is a disappointment - more about that with the next pic.



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Cheers
TW

My blue stricta (also seen it called Temple) previously did really well. It always grew tall, hiding the unsightly water intake pipe & the ugly pump. It was always multiplying. For the last couple of months it has not done well at all. See those damaged leaves. There are lots of holes & it just never grows tall anymore. This pic is not really showing how bad it looks - much worse in real life. What do the holes mean? I wonder if before the trimming, the hygro was shading it too much - but I think it has been doing badly well before it became shaded by the hygro. Any suggestions? I like this plant & would like to see it work again.

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Cheers
TW

Creeping wisteria to the left, java & Ricca on rock in the middle. Not too much riccia though - most of 30cm I bought has been eaten - but there is some. The pic doesn't show it, but they do contrast each other nicely. The re-positioned blyxa (never can remember how to spell that) is just to the right. I don't know yet if it will survive the move. Parts don't look so good anymore.

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Cheers
TW

The new right hand side. With the hair grass & Lilly grass removed - as well as a major thinning of the Java fern, you can now see the crypts & the anubias. I hope they don't attract algae now they are so exposed to the light. They've been shaded so long, they wouldn't be used to it.

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Cheers
TW

This one shows my chain sword peeping over from the back, but really it is just because I like my nigerian red male so much. Such a peaceful and well behaved fellow. Tries to come to the surface for food, but really, I think he dislikes the ill mannered feeding behaviour of the other greedy occupants. Think he finds the rainbows in particular too pushy.

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Cheers
TW

Potassium, Potassium, Potassium

Holes AND stunted growth = lack of Potassium

In 99.9% of all situations, at least

Otherwise, tank looks very nice. If you can afford it, maybe the right side shouldn't grow all in. This way it would stay more of an open playground.

Blyxa was spelled right

I guess you will run out of Riccia soon, if the mass is in decline because of eating. Maybe you want to save a little and build it back up in another tank.

And the nigerian is really looking very nice

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Thanks LF,

Potassium - that's the KN03, isn't it? I currently dose 1/2 tspn 3 times a week. How much do think I should increase?

Yes, I love my Nigerian For looks, he is my current favourite fish. Due to his peaceful nature, I'd even give him a mate - if I could only find one & then be sure they are a true match.

Cheers
TW

Nooooo

While there is some potassium in KNO3 (the K is the potassium, the whole thing is called Potassium Nitrate), there is much more N (nitrate). You use this substance primarily to beef up the nitrate. A substance like K2SO4 (Potassium Sulfate, best as it only has an impact on K), or (I think you use it) to a limited value Seachem Equilibrium (which also influences other things, like calcium and magnesium and as such GH) adds the missing parts.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Thanks LF,

Hmmm, K2SO4. I don't have any of that. I will have to track some down. I guess I can get some from the same place I got my KH2P04 & KN03.

When I get it, how much should I use & how frequently. I think all my tanks must lack this, as I have holes in leaves in them all.

Thanks for the tip.

Cheers
TW

It's near impossible to overdose k2so4 so I usually add a ppm every day. The stuff doesn't like to dissolve in water very much so I think that you'll end up dosing a few ml of the highest solution possible. I got mine from greg watson. That's where I get all my ferts.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Actually, my powder dissolves rather well

As I am "feeding" a quite large dosage of Equilibrium after each water change I do not add extra Potassium until the 3rd (=last) "feeding" of macros during the week.

Overall, the goal is to have your potassium levels (in ppm) equal to the nitrate level, if you follow EI that means around 20ppm. The problem is that there seems to be no cheap measuring kit for potassium. As such I had to hunt down the %of content within all the components that I add to evaluate how much potassium I need.

But as Matty says, it is hard to OD on this stuff. I would say that if you get your hands on K2SO4 then you could easily add 3x1/8tsp to 3x1/4tsp without any issues.

Also, isn't K2SO4 available in gardening stores as Stump Remover? I don't remember.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Stump remover is KNO3. I'm not sure there is a common source out there under a different name for K2SO4.

What I meant about the K2SO4 not dissolving well is that it comes to saturation quickly(after a certain point, no more will dissolve). It's impossible to make a super concentrated supply like with KNO3. For my fert bottles I have 1ml of my solution = a certain amount in my tank. With PO4 and KNO3 it's easy to make that 1ml=1ppm in my tank, but the K2SO4 the highest concentration gives 1ml=.28ppm in my tank.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Thanks Matty for clarifying that I only released nonsens when I spoke about Stomp Remover

So Robyn, that's not it then.

Matty - Why do you make a solution in the first place? I just mix them up with tank water before adding it. Is your quantity so small that a measuring spoon would not work?

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Thanks Matty for clarifying that I only released nonsens when I spoke about Stomp Remover

you were really close if that's any consolation.

Yep, for 1ppm of KNO3 a day I'd be adding less than a tenth of a teaspoon, so accuracy is a little hard. I like to add my ferts daily, for a number of reasons, but mostly cause I forget to do it if it's not ritualistically every morning before I leave for class. This also keeps the ppm of nitrate around 10.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Thanks Matty & Ingo

If I can find some, then I will add K2SO4 3x1/8tsp or maybe 3x1/4tsp, on the same day as I add the other dry ferts. A hydroponics place supplied the other powders, so I hope they have this too.

Cheers
TW

Hi,
Stump remover is the common source for KNO3. Just be sure
that what you purchase does not have anything added to
speed up the decaying process.
Fleet Enema's are the common source for K2SO4. Again,
be sure to purchase the green package. The other color
package has additional "stuff" that is not ideal for the
aquarium.
Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Thanks for the info Frank and thanks for popping in.

Cheers
TW

Hate to be the correction guy, but Fleet Enemas are used to dose PO4. The chemical formula is H2NaPO4.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

You probably don't need to dose Potassium separately. Your getting 3 to 2 ratio of No3 (N) to s04 (K) in KNO3, which if dosed 3 times a week should bring you to within EI ranges. Remember EI ranges are 10-20ppm for No3 and so4 so you could be off by alot and still hit your mark.

I personally never dose so4 and have never seen any deficenies that are known to be caused by low potassium.

All I dose is:

KNO3
PO4
Flourish

My Scapes

I would still dose that K.

Even though you're dosing KNO3, the signs still point to a K deficiency. Follow what the plants tell you...

Love the windelov mound, by the way

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Back in the saddle!

Thanks matty, tetratech & NowherMan6 for popping in and for the advice. I don't know if it's the potasium or not, but I do know I'm getting holes in the leaves, even with following the EI method strictly - so something is off. I figure it can't hurt to try the potassium, so if I can find it (haven't rung them yet) I will dose & see if it might mean no holes on new leaves.

It's a bit of a trip to get the stuff, but I will be passing that way on the 19th. In the meantime, I have some seachem equilibrium I've never used. Ordered it on line, when someone in another thread scared me off epsom salt. Instructions say to use so much of the stuff - but maybe until I get my potassium, it will help a little? Do you think so - or will it mess up my EI dosing?

Thanks again.

EDIT,

Love the windelov mound, by the way

NowherMan6, forgot to say thanks. I love it too, but I hope it stays low & doesn't grow much taller.

Cheers
TW

Even though you're dosing KNO3, the signs still point to a K deficiency. Follow what the plants tell you...

Hear Hear!

Exactly my feelings. As holes in the plants don't simply happen for no reason, and in the vast majority of cases are potassium related, and given that some OD on potassium is not harmful, there is no reason not to add it.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Hi guys,

I have a question about the traces. I don't think we have the tropica brand I've reading you all discussing, so I use Seachem. I have always ordered on-line Seachem Fourish Trace (a broad range of trace elements demonstrated to be necessary for proper plant health and growth). By error on my last order, I must have ordered Seachem Flourish (a comprehensive plant supplement for the natural freshwater aquarium. It contains a rich assortment of important micro elements, trace elements and other nutrients. These include calcium, magnesium, iron and other important elements that have been shown to be beneficial to aquatic plants).

I'm wondering, is Flourish better than Flourish Trace. It seems to contain more, but is it at the cost of the Trace elements being lower? Because Flourish Trace on it's own didn't seem to include iron, I've also been adding that separately on the same days I add Trace.

Which product do you think would be best for my long term use.

Thanks.

Cheers
TW

Robyn,

You may remember that I not too long ago ran out of TMG and that there was none available anymore. When asking around here I was informed that the most proper replacement would be Flourish and not Trace, so that would mean that your accidental purchase is for the better

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

I use flourish, not trace, as one of the 4 brands of trace supplements that I use. As such I can't comment on it specifically other than it seems to have a great amount of different nutrients that aren't found in my other traces. All in all, the mix is working pretty good IMO.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Robyn,
I just happened to come across this, you might have seen it but it's an example dosing chart for EI. They also note so4 dosing as optional. But what nowher said about "what the plants are saying" is good advice. I will be curious to see if it's due to a lack of K.

From EI Dosing chart
Note: K2SO4 is not required for dosing unless you need the extra Potassium (K). This K is found in KN03 and KH2P04. Dosing these two according to above will yield sufficient K levels. Therefore, one will be fine dosing only KN03 and KH2P04, and Plantex. If one needs to increase their K levels with K2S04, add the same measured amount as KH2P04. For example, if one is dosing 1/2 tsp of KH2P04, then dose 1/2 tsp of K2S04.
In true regards to EI, added excess K is not detrimental in any event

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My Scapes

Thanks Matty & Ingo for the thumbs up for the Flourish.

Thanks tetratech for the extra info on ferts & the handy table.

Cheers
TW

I'm playing around with replacing this tank. Will need some more time to think about it, but how about a tank of the below dimensions:-

36" in length
18" in width
24" in height

This will give me 67.3G, instead of my current 43.5. I'll have a bit extra size in all directions & most importantly, I can get a cannister filter & whatever light fitting I want. I'd be allowed to set this new tank up straightaway, as long as I gave up on the 4ft tank & shut this one down.

What do you think about this size tank. I like the 24" height, as less frequent trimming required. Are there any issues about the light not reaching the bottom of the tank. Light would be around 200watts (compact PCs I think).

Any issues with this tank size? Comments appreciated. Many thanks in advance.

Cheers
TW

Remember that tall tanks are hard to scape, and for it to look good many times you have to ignore the top 3rd of the tank. You could think of it as a 75, just a foot short on one side. Something similar would be the 50 like I have. It's 36X18X18, and would be easier to light and scape IMO. Either way you go a loverly tank it shall be.

At 2 ft a large % of light is lost, but with ~200w, I don't think you will have trouble growing any plant due to light requirements. If you are going with the 2x96w pc, I think that should be plenty.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Yeah Robyn,

I am with Matty, you basically would have his 50, just higher, or my 40 and much higher, or, half the lenght of my 125 and same height.

Albeit I am usually in sink with "the bigger the better", this shape would not be my favorite. Get a longer and deeper one, height is not so important (as in, keep it less heigh).

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Thanks Matty & LF for the advice on tank sizes. I will consider for a bit longer, but I'm still not sure if I want higher than I have already, which is nearly 18inches. I can't go wider than 18 inches, as I'm limited by the cupboard width it sits on. If the tank remains in the same position, it can't go longer than 36inches - as it is getting too close to the window.

Another reason not to rush in with the decision is that I maybe have tentative permission to buy & set up a 4ft tank (but wider & taller than the 2nd hand one I bought recently - it's a narrow & low tank). Still only a maybe, but I'm not going to rush into a new 3ft if I have any chance of setting up a 4ft.

Just finished water changes on all 3 tanks & it's now 1.30am. Trimmed my riccia for the first time tonight & I am about to attach my harvest to another rock. I had more riccia than I thought. Some of my riccia is a dark green & some is a very light colour. I wonder if tetratech's is the same? I thought the dark growth was java, as I grew my riccia on a java base. On closer inspection on trimming, I can see it is mostly riccia. Riccia leaves (or whatever you call these on moss) are very different to java moss. Strand by strand, I removed most of the underlining java moss & will now use it for the base for the new riccia rock.

One of the anubia plants in this tank is constantly flowering - though really I see little point, as they only last a couple of days. It is only this plant though - none of the others can be bothered it seems.

That's it for now.

EDIT. I think I see improvement since I started adding K2S04. I'm sure I see new growth that doesn't have the holes, but as I hadn't previously trimmed off the effected leaves, I'm not sure. They're trimmed off now - so I should know for sure by next water change.

EDIT no 2: Yay, I have enough riccia to cover 3 additional small rocks - just hope these rocks will get enough light for riccia to grow as well as it did on the front rock.

Cheers
TW

And where is the picture that shows us these new Riccia rocks?

Glad to read that it seems as if your fert correction shows results.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Nothing much new in this tank, other than to say my Tenellus and blyxia are going great guns, especially since they are not supposed to in my low light tank. I guess the C02 & the ferts are saving the day. The only criticism of my tenellus is that it multiples where I don't want it to. It had runners growing all through & around the blyxia, but I managed to get it out without uprooting the blyxia.

I am very close to removing all of my stem plants in this tank. My thoughts for the left side are to take all stems out & push my wood with the fern towards the back, have low growing wisteria at the very front & I will have one more try at a red plant in between the wisteria & the wood.

I think Bensaf told me once the name of a red plant that may have a slightly lower light requirement. I'll try to find the name & see if it is available here in Aus.

The right hand side will stay more or less how it's been for a while, although I might try for some bigger rocks than those I have. The current rocks get lost amongst the plants, even though they are low plants. Shame to have touproot the riccia, to move to any new rock - 'cause even that is doing as well as I could expect in my tank.

That's it for now.

Cheers
TW

Took out all my stems at tonight's water change. The only fast grower now is the ground hugging wisteria.

The set up by no means looks complete at the moment - I need some larger rocks for the riccia, as the current ones get lost.

May not do anything for a little while though, due to this development http://www.fishprofiles.com/files/threads/32247.1.htm?0#



Cheers
TW

Here is a full shot of the tank today (day after water change & removal of all stem plants).

In the pic, all the greens of my wisteria, chain sword & riccia all blend together, but in reality, there is a difference, albeit not enough. That's why I'd like some larger rocks to make the divisions clearer.

The tank should be a lot easier to maintain, with the loss of the stems. The riccia, chain sword & Blyxa are all doing so well, I am quite happy with them.

My crypts & anubia though, have green spot algae. This worries me, as I am considering going high light soon in a new tank. Am I just inviting an algae problem if I do?



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Cheers
TW

Here's a close up of my riccia rock. It's ready for another trim

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Cheers
TW

Here's a shot showing the algae that is typically on my anubia & crypts.

What can help here. I already have 5 otos in there (was able to do a head count at last night's water change & they are all present & accounted for).

Any suggestions? Like I said earlier, it concerns me, as I'm considering going hi-light in a soon to come tank and I hope I am not just asking for trouble with the increased WPG.

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Cheers
TW

Thought it was time to introduce the new resident apisto triple red cac. He has settled in well. There are no disputes between him & the Nigerian male - nor anyone one else. He is a very peaceful fellow. He was quick to learn how best to get his share of the food, with all the other greedy & quick eaters in the tank, so I think he will do well. I hope to get him a wife in February.

Blurry shot as usual, but here it is

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Cheers
TW

another

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Cheers
TW

Time for another full tank shot. There is a new plant in the rear left corner. LFS said it's called Willow leaf or something similar (I forget exactly).

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Cheers
TW

Not much has changed. At last night's water change, I removed a lot a chain sword, as it had multiplied & taken over a bit. For the 1st time, some of the remaining chain sword is showing some algae spots

The riccia was trimmed & enough was harvested to cover a new rock.

Blyxa is multiplying as well and a nice thick group has formed from the original 2 plants

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Cheers
TW

I have no advice, I just love seeing beautiful tanks. Just thought I'd let you know.

Robyn,

Looking very healthy there. You say you see spots of algae on the tenellus? What kind of spots? Can it be that you removed so much that you upset the tank stability? And did you replant the remainder or did they stayed in? If replanted then this may be the cause of the algae as they will need to re-settle.

Otherwise, very nice, soon you will have soo much Riccia that you can sell it

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Nice Robyn!

It's interesting that your Riccia grows well (much better than mine) even with less light. I'm starting to think my water might be too soft for some plants I have.

I would love to see some thin branchy pieces of wood poking out from under the fern and coming over the new riccia rock and some of the other plants near the front. It would really give the tank some nice constrast and add'l depth.

My Scapes

Wow, 3 visitors !!! Thanks to all for popping in.

fish patty, thanks for such a nice comment. Much appreciated.

LF, Well the spots are closer to black than green & they are on my anubia & crypts as well. It doesn't come off when rubbed with finger. I don't remember if it was there (or not) prior to tenellus thinning, but was there the next night. BTW, the spots were on the anubia & crypts prior to the thinning. No tenellus was replanted - what remains is as it was. I removed about 5 good sized plants & around 15 smaller ones. Still plenty there & very little free gravel at all in the tank. I was just making sure none of the riccia & blyxa weren't shaded. My tenellus grows great, but tries to take over the tank & would do so if given the chance.

Hi Tetra, yes I'm amazed too that the riccia, blyxa & tenellus all grow so well. I have more that double the riccia I started with, at least 4 times as much blyxa & I just have to keep getting rid of tenellus. Maybe C02 is more important than lights to these plants I continue to have no success with red plants though - any I trial die.

Thanks for scaping advice too, but all my tanks are on holding mode at the moment. I am waiting for hubby to pay me out for a bet I won & the winnings will be used to upgrade all my tanks. This tank will close down shortly & become a 36" x 19" tank & all plants & fish will transfer across. I already have the eco complete, eheim cannister filter & compact PC lighting sitting in the garage. (Wish I'd read your recent discussion in LF's log - seems you are all moving towards the idea of T5HO's being better than PC's). It also seems that I only need stronger lights if I want red plants (which I do).

So, once hubby comes up the winnings I'll be starting from scratch (scape wise) and looking for lots of suggestions like yours.

Anyway, thanks again for all popping in.

Cheers
TW

Robyn,

Take your time with the redo, you are in no rush as the tank looks nice as it is

Anyway, my Anubias have once in a while blackish, or dark brownish, spots on them. I assume it is a form of algae that actually does not spread all that fast. My first set of Anubias that I added to that tank about 30 weeks ago developed such spots right away, I assume because the plant mass in the tank was not sufficient. I had them a long time ago in the 125 as well and it was suggested to me that the only way to remove the spotted parts is to remove the leaves.

Also, I am not certain anymore, in particular because of the discussion in my thread, if I would really like to have the T5s.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Hi LF

Take your time with the redo, you are in no rush as the tank looks nice as it is

I will & thanks for the tank compliment.

I wonder if I'm doing the right thing, because I do like the tank as it is. In real life, it is a little nicer than the pics show. My camera (as said many times) is not that great & green just looks green (no contrast in shade). Actually there are many shades of green in there, so even without red, I do have more contrast than shows up.

Being a worrier, I wonder what troubles I'll bring into the new tank, as I'll have increased light. Am I just inviting a big algae mess - all for the sake of a red plant here or there? Maybe I should have just thrown in a red plastic plant & pretended.

But no, the light has been bought & it won't fit over this tank - it would overhang each side. The reason I didn't just convert this tank (like I did with the 23.7G) is that it is not a standard length & I couldn't get a light fitting to fit it's length.

I'm both looking forward to and a little scared of the change over plans.

Back to the black spot - I think my plant mass is sufficient. Another factor is that I was away from home from 2 Feb until 19 Feb & there were no ferts or traces going in the tank while I was gone - so maybe this is the reaction to that. Some anubia spotting was present before I went away, but not on the tenellus.

Thanks for dropping in LF.

Cheers
TW

I'm both looking forward to and a little scared of the change over plans.

Happens to me all the time

You never know if a change is for the better or worse. A good plan on what you want to do and how to manage to get there goes a long way. Spur of the moment changes are the worst, let me tell you

Another factor is that I was away from home from 2 Feb until 19 Feb & there were no ferts or traces going in the tank while I was gone

- If it didn't cause it, it for sure didn't help either. What about light and such? Was that as it always is?

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

If it didn't cause it, it for sure didn't help either. What about light and such? Was that as it always is?

Lighting schedule & C02 were on their usual schedule & I had someone feed the fish. It seemed like too much to ask for them to fertilise as well.

I am lucky the fish minder didn't make the same error on this tank, as on the 20G. At first I couldn't understand why the 20G was so filthy compared to the other 2 - until I discovered the lights had been on 24/7 for who knows how long. There's an over-ride switch on timer, so if you want lights on when the timer has turned them off, you flick the over-ride switch & lights are back on. In that mode, the timer can't turn the lights back off though.

The minder switched the over-ride on & forgot to turn it off again. I don't know how long lights were left on - it must have been quite a while though. I came back to a tank where my anubias will never look the same again - unless I trim off nearly all the leaves. Besides that, the tank was just plain filthy from the algae, but not so bad that one water change & a good cleaning of glass didn't sort it out. Except for the anubias, which look very sad. A little annoying as quite a few were newly added.

Just glad it didn't happen in this tank.

Cheers
TW

Well,

First to this tank: when lights and CO2 were kept as usual, and no ferts where added for two weeks, plus unknown amounts of food added, that should do it for the algae.

The 20G story seems really bad, I don't know if I would use this minder ever again . But we have to take whoever is available

I have a timer that can be overwritten as well, but as soon as it hits the next interval setting it will revert to "normal". In this case, the worst would be one night with the lights on, or one day with the lights off. Look around for these types of timers, here in the US they are about $10 to $15 in the hardware store.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

I don't know if I would use this minder ever again . But we have to take whoever is available

Well, what can I say. The minder was my 18yr old daughter, who tried hard & reported to me daily on my fishes activites. It was the 1st time this worried mother hen left her at home (although not alone - her 25yr old step-sister was with her - she was in charge of her Dad's marine tank).

I've made a multitude of mistakes over my short fish keeping career, and as you say, we have to take whoever is available.

That timer sounds good. I have not seen one like it, but will keep my eye out for one now.

Cheers
TW

*shakes fish at 18yr old daughter*

I say disown her!

J/K...I just saw that pic on the last page....looks great robyn! I'm very impressed. Sorry to hear about your other tank though.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Hi Matty, thanks for stopping by

And thanks for the nice compliment About the other tank - it's ok now, except for annubia.

I haven't seen an update from your tanks in a little while. Anything much happening? I read in one of LF's log that you are still having bad luck with fish, so I was sad to read that. Hope things pick up soon.

Cheers
TW

No, nothing really happening there. I've been too busy with school and life. I wanted to get it nice again, but haven't gotten to it. I'm just giving it minimal care. The few fish left get fed sparingly, the plants get trimmed and the water gets changed when I can, been about a month on that. Don't see a need for it though.

Thanks for asking, maybe next week (spring break) will see some action.

Oh, and I talked to one of the neighbors in the same building and he's having very similar problems with his fish. I might try to start mixing with 50% RO/DI on water changes if maybe the tap water is a problem.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Hi,
"Spring Break?" You actually get a break? Heck every
Spring Break I had, found me out in the boonies somewhere
chasing rock formations and writing a thesis on them.
Of course the paper was due the first day of class after
the resumption of classes so there was no putting it off.
Never did get to go to Florida, but then Susan probably
would have had something to say about that too. Come to
think of it.. I could have done one on Karst Topography
and researched it in FL. Durn!
Lucky...
Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Fl. has good Karst Topography? That would be pretty cool to study. Sinkholes, caves, underground rivers...pretty sweet.

I'm not going to fully enjoy my spring break in Florida or anything like that. but I do get a week off, and though I have work to do, no way I'm going to spend the whole break doing work. I'll play catch up with my two tanks and sleep in good. Can't really afford florida anyways.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

I'm trying to show the pearling on my riccia tonight (and it's not water change night - that's tomorrow). The little bubbles are all over it - too bad the pics don't show it. I wonder if anyone other than me can see it, but it is there (really it is)

Attached Image:


Cheers
TW

another try. Hmmm, it's no better either

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Cheers
TW

Was trying not to change much until the new tank, but the blyxa had multiplied so much & was shading itself. To get to the light, it had started to lift itself out of the substrate. I removed most of the blyxa, so I could separate the new plants & I find that from the one single plant I bought, I have around 30 now. to make room for them, the creeping wisteria had to go - as it was positioned in one of the better areas for light in the tank.

It is getting a little crowded in there (plant wise) but I hope not to have to throw much out, as I will need extra plants for the slightly bigger floor plate of the new tank.

Cheers
TW

I see a fwe bubbles there Robyn. Very nice. I love all youse guys with your pearling riccia. Somebody needs to get you a little better camera. Wouldn't even have to be much$$ just a decent p and s.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Here is the latest pic & I'm embarrassed to see that I should have cleaned the glass first. The riccia is looking a bit blunt & short, but that because I trimmed it last night. the 4 rocks at the front are all new and the ricca was harvested from other rocks, which are now further back and not visible in this picture.

Still in holding mode in this tank, as it's closure is getting closer now. Replacement tank has been ordered.

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Cheers
TW

Like most other people, I assume, I first looked at the picture and was in shock



I thought you had a huge algae outbreak on the right side, but I am glad to read that this is on your glass

The tank looks very nice though,

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

thought you had a huge algae outbreak on the right side, but I am glad to read that this is on your glass

I got tired & lazy at the end of Wednesday nights water change. After cleaning the 20G & then the discovery of eggs in 23G slowed the night down somewhat. Being a hopeless fish netter, everything had to be removed from the tank so I could net those pesky krib juveniles for removal. Whether it is their extreme youth, I don't know. But they were just so darn fast & much quicker darters than any other fish I've had to catch. By the time I made it to the 43G, I was tired and so I did little other than water change & harvest riccia (which couldn't wait - it was about to break free and float).

Having said that, I am getting black algae (grows in little tuffs) as well as algae on some anubia leaves. It scares me a little, as what will happen when all goes to my new tank with the much stronger light.

Oh well, time will tell I guess.

Cheers
TW

Where do you get the black algae (which I assume is BBA, as your description seems to fit)? Quite a few people I know have it, including myself. For most of us, it grows in areas of higher water flow and overall seems not to invade a tank too fast. I have on a few occasions "spot-treaded" the tank (40G) with Excel, and somehow that worked wonders. It was a different process than what I used to do in the past. I simply took a dropper and sucked up about 3ml of Excel. Then, while doing a water change (as that is the time when I turn off the filter, aka no current in the tank) and the water is at the low point, just before refilling, I squirt the dropper into the BBA slowly (that part was still submersed, not above the water line). And that was it! I could not believe myself how effective it was, within two days the BBA turned red and on the following weekend it was gone (from that spot, of course, I still have some in other spots).

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Thanks for the BBA Excel trip LF. I tried it here & in the 23G, where the algae was much worse - complete with long & flowing green hair algae. This tip worked really well on both types of algae.

By accident, this tank has been re organised slightly on the right hand side. To remove my Apisto Blue Steels, I had to take all the wood & rocks out of the tank & the right hand side didn't go back together quite they way it was. The anubia is now more visible. I only put back a small portion of the chain sword & only one of the Java Ferns. The Java will probably be a little slower to grow back but the chain sword tends to take over very quickly - so it shouldn't be long for re-growth there. It's not very different, but for a comparison, the before shot is a few posts further up.

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Cheers
TW

Here's the reason for the Blue Steel's removal.

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Cheers
TW

Here's the female, plus a shot of my Blyxa. I had my first floating Blyxa last week, but being lazy, I left it floating for a quite a few days. It grew some roots while floating and has now been successfully replanted.

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Cheers
TW

here's the male.

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Cheers
TW

Very nice Robyn,

That's a double or triple red, right?

The tank looks ok, but somehow, with it being less planted (until it regrows), I find the red rocks too red and too much visible. And it seems like they need a hair cut as well .

In the last shot there were 4 Riccia tops, now there are 3 larger ones. What happened to #4?

Glad the Excel worked, now keep an eye open for re-occurence.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

That's a double or triple red, right?

Sold as a double, but there is some red on dorsal, tail & anal fin. Not that much on the anal - but it is there. Not quite as pretty a pattern of red as my previous, but this one's dorsal fins are more spikey so are impressive that way (doesn't show in my pic). First time I've had a male display to his girl too (it's always the other way around) but he definitely flairs, plus shimmies at her too. I don't expect eggs or fry to survive in this tank.

I agree with all your criticisims and it's the same old story that I don't feel like doing all that much to this tank as it's will be pulled down shortly. My new tank is probably ready for delivery now (I've been away a few days). Before I set it up, I've got to get a tradesman out to reinforce my cupboards - so that will be another delay.

All ricca rocks are still there - maybe too low or towards the back - but they're there.

I soon have to plan planting of the new tank - but will be limited by my large wood /fern - takes up a lot of space. Thinking about which red plant (finally a red plant) I will grow. I have no idea how to run C02 off a cannister, so later I will be asking for advice. I have one of those glass tulip things to use for C02 in the new tank - another mystery.

So with all these thoughts, I haven't been too excited about redesigning this tank.

Cheers
TW

Makes sense Robyn. A red plant, as in a tall stem red plant? I do like my Alterhanthera reineckii quite a bit. I have a shot of my street from today, but given that I don't update my weekly event until tomorrow I can show it here as well.

And we will worry about the CO2 whenever you are ready for it, but what is that tulip thing you speak of? A glass diffuser?

Ingo

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Alterhanthera reineckii

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club